If you are on Facebook look up Automotive Wood Bodies. I will be posting pictures of the wood work for my 1929 Sedan. May be helpful to anyone working on theirs. Regards
Hi there. The Chev pictures are in a separate album. Just click on Photos then Albums to access it. Save you the trouble of scrolling through all the Durant photos. Likes would be appreciated Regards
Hi Steve, Saw your thread on the 1928 Sedan. Keeping original mechanicals will be easiest way to go and the brakes are quite adaquate. The 28 wood is different then my 29 but uses similar practices in design. Too bad the body plate is missing as it would have told you where it was assembled. Most likely in Winnipeg but possibly right here in Oshawa. Watch buying wood pieces as you may find yours is mostly maple and e US suppliers are using ash. Compatible but not original if that's the way you want to go. Both my 1929s are from here and are primarily maple so I am making all their wood with local maple. Anyway best of luck with your car. It will be cool when done.
Thanks! We're going more usable then original. Original looking and safe are most important. Non visible wood doesn't bother me, but the stuff you can see I would like it true to original. It had the Vin plate on the seat still I think it said Oshawa. I'll start looking for maple
Received over 1000 views. Pretty cool. Hope the pictures are helpful. I have been at other projects and hope to get back to the Chevs soon and post more pictures.
Been slow to get back to the wood work. I have been assembling some mechanical parts and need to finish a Durant first. I hope the pictures so far have been helpful to some. Regards
Started the doglegs for the rear quarters for the 1929 Sedan. Come warmer weather I will be making new floor wood and starting to frame up the wood structure. I will have more time once I finish my friends Durant. Check it all out on Facebook page "Automotive Wood Bodies"
Thank you for the kind words. I am working up to being able to do more of this work. Thinking of specializing on this kind of work. I am pretty much at a level to be able to design wood framing if none exists. I think this would be great for some rare makes and styles.
Hello. I have been adding photos of the 1929 Cabriolet wood as it progresses. I have been completing the rear kick-up assembly and am working up to the belt rail. All pictures can be viewed in an album on my facebook page "Automotive Wood Bodies". Have a look and give a like. Thanks.
More photos of the Cabriolet wood have been posted. Working on the back end and soon will be able to make and fit the rumble lid. Visit my Facebook page "Automotive Wood Bodies" and see the current builds. All likes appreciated. Regards
Have you gone any further recently? Trying to find some of the tools you are using but I think I'll get by with the basics I have for now. Your work looks great! Keep it up!
Hi Steve. Basically I do most with a table saw, thickness planer and a good band saw. Drill press in handy as well as a jointer. Obvious items are good chisels, forstner bits and various knives. The key to complex parts is making jigs to hold the work when putting it through the power tools. I did pictures of the jig for doglegs. They were sacrificial but allowed for creating the complex curve and angles on those parts. Just take your time and check measurements over and over until you are comfortable with them. All the best.
I would add a router and sander to your list as they can dramatically reduce the time with hand tools. Caution, they can also a ruin a good piece of wood as can all the other tools.
Yes a router is handy as well. I make routing templates as required. May I add that even with good working knowledge of tools the user needs to have a working knowledge of body construction as well especially if the existing wood is barely good enough to copy or missing altogether.
Well for tools I should be set then, except for the thickness plainer but I should be able to source one of those. I will be going mostly from drawings and reverse building from sheet metal as our car is missing most of the wood and what was there had been replaced with sub par product. But following you feed on Face book is helping with showing individual pieces and actual pictures. Thanks again!
Back from vacation trip so it's time to get back at it. I have four doors to do for a 1928 Durant before resuming the two 1929 Chevs I am working on. The Durant body was built by Budd (mostly known for their steel bodies but they did wood framed as well) and they followed typical construction for the era. Early Chevs followed similar design methodology. I wish I could retitle this thread as the wood work relates to many years.
Been reading about the recent photobucket issue. Thankfully I have my photos on a dedicated Facebook page that even non-Facebook users can view. Eventually I will set up my own web site but until then check out "Automotive Wood Bodies" on Facebook.
Though this thread is titled for 1929 Chevrolet I am presently doing the wood for the doors from a 1928 Durant. This is a Budd built body but the construction is similar to early 20s Fisher bodies and probably some of the early bodies on Chevrolets from other suppliers. I will be posting pictures on my face book page "Automotive Wood Bodies" for anyone needing reference. Hoping they may help someone in their quest to restore any older Chevrolet. Every car restored is history saved.
Okay I have started to post the Duraht door wood starting with the regulator boards. This may be relevant to those with very early Chevs prior to Fisher being the exclusive body supplier. This Durant body was supplied by Budd and is typical of early body construction.
Okay so I got out the chassis wood for the Sedan. I will start making templates and begin the side rails for it, a Cabriolet and a Coupe. Hoping to document all three for future reference.
Believe it or not but I do these by hand with final fitting again by hand to get close fit. I want to get a shaper bit for this but haven't found a commercially available one large enough yet. I will probably get a custom shaper bit made for future use.
I tried to find shaper or router bits. It seems that they think 1/2" depth is all that is necessary for strength and that is about as deep as they go. That isnt much help when going around some angle to get away from a wheelwell.
How do you do it? A keyhole saw or something?
I was planning on just making a straight box joint on a tablesaw, and just living with the slight reduction in strength. I doubt I could get a close fit making those by hand. What kind of glue are you using?
I have various jigs to hold the pieces in the correct orientation and use a bandsaw freehand to rough out the finger joint. I also have plans for a jig for the bandsaw as well that may work to eliminate the hand work. As I get more finger joint work to do I will make some prototypes unless I get a shaper bit made first.
I have almost completed a master template for 1929 Chevrolet floor main sills. Coming I will be making three complete floors for three cars I am going to be working on. Just need to get the Durant done.
Started gluing the floor today for the 1929 Sedan. If I get some more free time I need to make pieces for the Cabriolet floor. Anyone need 1929 floor wood while I am at it?
Thank you Mike for the kind words. Now I got it back home I will mate the kick-up assembly to the main floor and start aligning the pillars and doors. I am on a little hiatus from the Durant and it will be early spring when I get a Star touring and a Nash sedan to do so I should have a bit of time through the holidays to get my sedan done and maybe start the main floor for the Cabriolet. Should be a fun year.
HAPPY NEW YEAR! Been busy with holiday celebrations. Got a chance to cut the rear belt rail for the Sedan and put the pictures on my Facebook page. I have promised a web site and hopefully time will permit getting one up for the spring. There is more then just the 1929 shown. The 1928 Durant pictures can be helpful to people doing early four cylinder Chevs as the basic framing is similar. When I get started on the Star touring those pictures should be helpful for those doing early open cars. So have a look at "Automotive Wood Bodies" on Facebook to see if there is anything pictured that can help you with your restoration.
Well I have been away for a while. Hoping to get back to it soon. Last item I made was the rear cross bar for under the rear window. As soon as it warms up I am going to clear off the chassis in my garage and start assembling the body on it so everything will be level and square. Later.
10000 views...pretty cool! I hope the pictures have been helpful to some. As the weather warms up I will be setting up the 1929 Sedan floor wood and starting to assemble the body. We will see how much time I have as I will also be assembling a 1928 Durant and come April will be starting the body for a 1924 Star touring. All pictures of progress on these cars will be added to my facebook page "Automotive Wood Bodies" for viewing. I know the Durant and Star are not Chev but the body construction techniques are relevant to any 1920s auto.
I started a Go Fund Me campaign for "Automotive Wood Bodies" to see if I can some help taking this to the next level. Once I can get established I want to approach some colleges to see if they are interested in offering "coach work" as a possible study for future craftpeople. I would like to help train future restoration and preservation experts. Why let this knowledge fade away.
start your own college and offer certificates of coarse completion to attending students, who pay a small fee to attend your college.
Why bypass government and teachers unions , you know the answer , they will stonewall you and not give you the time of day because THEY DO NOT UNDERSTAND. If you can form a class of 3--10 students for 9 months a year or maybe 12. Your students should have a prior understanding of work work.
Its not like this is a demand vocation, because most likely people already employed by shops of the caliber that offer wood repair are not going anywhere.
Question , how much demand do you see , or foresee , for people having coach building skills >??????
The 1924 Star touring will arrive on the 23rd of April. I will be posting pictures as it goes. Also hoping to have my 1929 Chev Sedan set up then and will have pictures of it as it goes together.
Have you thought about offering an apprenticeship program? I think that would increase your production ability while they learn. I don't really expect many would see it as an opportunity for a lifetime career owing to low demand.
Have you thought about offering an apprenticeship program? I think that would increase your production ability while they learn. I don't really expect many would see it as an opportunity for a lifetime career owing to low demand.
My thoughts would be for someone wishing to augment their skills to be able to take on wood framed car bodies as required. Once I get a full shop up and running I had planned on apprenticeship as an option. I am presently keeping any and all options open. I am not reliant on this as an income but am limited as to what I can invest. Ultimately I would prefer to get this up and running and as I approach an older age have people who can take it over and keep the service available for years to come. Why let the knowledge and talent die with me kind of idea. At any rate it should be an interesting adventure.
Cool I can now attach photos here. Here is the main floor section for my 1929 Sedan. This is done in maple as was the original car (built in Canada). As the weather warms up I will clean off the chassis and start setting up the whole body. The second photo is the body test fitted in my den.
Just in! Body for a 1924 Star touring. Not a Chev I know but similar construction to all late teens early 20s touring bodies. This project will start over the next couple of weeks.
Hi all; cabboy what do you recommend for wood preservation?( This is J. in mo.) I finally have all of my wood for the 34 DB truck. But now I am going to rough fit it . Any help would be app. Thanks J.
I haven't settled on any one yet but am trying some of the water seal products that are available. You do need to make sure the formulation does not include any silicone as that will impact painting.
When I was going to coat my new wood for the roadster , a google search turned up EPIFANES VARNISH, made in Holland as having the best reputation for quality with antique boat restorers. Its not cheap and here is $50 per liter/quart. Their thiner is about 1/3 of the price. Was able to get it locally from boat parts supply in Whitby. I just googled the name and appears amazon sells it . You get what you pay for.
You thin the first coat 50% with their thinner and thin subsequent coats less. I used mixing marked containers showing ratio on the sides. I also bought a quality hair brush to apply the varnish as recommended by Epifanes on the can.
Got the rear kick-up section mated to the main floor for my 29 Sedan today. I am going to set this up on my chassis so I can work on it between the 1928 Durant and 1924 Star I am working on for other people. Also clears some space in the workshop as well.
Here are a couple of pictures of the drivers front door wood for my 1929 Chevrolet Sedan. I also finally set up a website at www.automotivewoodbodies.com
The rear kick for the Sedan. The corner brackets were not yet installed in this picture. I need to make a new metal pan for this unless I can find a good used one.
Hi all; cabboy what do you recommend for wood preservation?( This is J. in mo.) I finally have all of my wood for the 34 DB truck. But now I am going to rough fit it . Any help would be app. Thanks J.
Our Chevys, at least those made in the USA, were preserved with a copper arsenic based solution which yielded a greenish coloring to the wood. I did extensive research on the subject and believe the solution probably contained some pine tar also. They may or may not have been linseed oil with it also. Of course, copper arsenic is no longer available but copper naphthalene is, which is the product used in its place today. Thompson water seal is a very similar product and dries clear rather than green. If you’re going for OEM, the CN, pine tar, and linseed oil mixture would probably be the closest. No glossy sealers were used. The mixture I mentioned also is an insecticide.
[ Thompson water seal is a very similar product and dries clear rather than green..
I have been testing out the Thompson water seal. My biggest fear was paint adheasion in case any silicone was in the formula. Seems not as I have had no issue with paint so far. It could be tinted green if that look is required but as a good deal of the wood was over-sprayed when the bodies were painted and the rest of the interior surfaces were covered with upholstery I am just using it clear.
In case anyone is interested I have started up a new album on my facebook page "Automotive Wood Bodies" for the rebuilding of a 1929 Chevrolet wood spoke wheel. I will be posting pictures as I go through the process of creating jigs and fixtures as well as the creation of the spokes and assembly of the wheel.
So recently I finished a Star touring body and it was just picked up by its owner. I still have work to do on a 1928 Durant Sedan but found a little time to start test fitting the wood to the body of my 1929 Chevrolet Sedan. Checking the fit before I start work on the sheet metal.
Test fitted the rear belt rail and the multitude of pieces that brace it. I'll get every thing assembled dry and then check the sheet metal fit. Once I am satisfied I will glue it all together and start repairing the tin to fit.
I swear you wood guys have an extra level of patience. I'm finding it hard enough to battle time, space, weather and humidity just to blast rust free metal parts and get them into epoxy primer. I couldn't imagine having to build a complex wooden structure and THEN have to move on to the metal work!
Just amazing to see what you can do!
1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!) 1975 4-speed L82 Vette
I swear you wood guys have an extra level of patience. I'm finding it hard enough to battle time, space, weather and humidity just to blast rust free metal parts and get them into epoxy primer. I couldn't imagine having to build a complex wooden structure and THEN have to move on to the metal work!
Just amazing to see what you can do!
Hi Tim, Go to my Facebook page "Automotive Wood Bodies" and check out the 1924 Star touring I just finished. The gentleman just picked it up and brought it back to Texas.
Had a look and it looked great. Wood actually seems like it could be calming to work on compared to all steel. Good for you that they are coming all the way from Texas for your work!
1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!) 1975 4-speed L82 Vette
Wood work is calming for me. Not so much when I get things wrong but I learn each time and just redo it. The Star was fun to do but the tin work consternated me somewhat. I can do it I just don't like it. I guess most bodies I will do will come from the US. When I tell people here what it will cost they kind of go white as a sheet. Thanks for looking and you are welcome to like the page.
I have been following your Facebook posts for about a year. It is one of the most interesting items on facebook. Thanks for posting.
Thank you. If the page generated more interest I might consider posting more information. Right now I have to concentrate on the work and don't have time for write-ups or detailed how-it's-done posts.
Had a recent inquiry as to why I don't believe old wood is any good. The individual seemed indignant that I would think new growth wood is better then old growth. While it is true newer cut trees can have a lesser grain count per inch the new wood will have all its strength and resiliency intact and not compromised by constant humidity/ temperature changes, mold, mildew, fungus and insect attacks. Very old wood (especially that which has been used in autos) has dried to the point of being brittle. Yes it seems hard and tough but the recent disassembly of my front seat has shown the brittleness where splinters and chunks came out with every nail and every screw hole had powdered wood with rust fall out when the screws were removed. Since the old growth vs new growth argument came up I checked the old wood in the seat. I found grain count from 5 to 12 lines per inch. Most of the new select or better grade ash I have been buying is comparable and most often better then that so that argument does not wash. Actually that idea comes from instrument making where the hardened and aged old growth is perfect for stringed instruments. That's why Stradivarius raided old homes to get centuries old wood for his violins. So far any and all new wood I have used has been structurally superior to the old wood I have removed. So when buying your hardwood (ash is best) just take some time to select the boards yourself. Among every stack I have come across there are always superior boards that will give excellent results.
I have to admit I’m lucky when having to pick my wood. A friend owns a very high end furniture making business that makes furniture for homes like the Newport mansions, Nantucket mansions, Manhattan apartments, and many of Hollywood mansions . When I tell him I need wood, he personally picks it for me from his supplier, knowing my application and workability needed. He knows way more than I ever will about wood. It costs me less also than going to the normal suppliers. He even has a huge humidor for his wood and keeps it there for me. He explained wood kept at the perfect humidity will allow you to work with it the easiest and also allow your tools to stay sharper longer. Also, very dry ash dust has been known to make some very ill if inhaled too much. Always wearing a mask is a good precaution. Yes, it will change with the weather later just like any other wood but having it right when you’re working it, makes it that much better.
My father worked with wood all of his 95 year life as a hobby. Had lots of woodworking tools and as kids he started us on woodworking too. Old wood gets VERY brittle and while it will still cut and mill fine it is dangerous in a car. To have 80+ year old poor quality wood for spokes or as a structure on a wood bodied car is foolish. In my opinion newer wood that has some structural strength in a car I am counting on to help me survive in case of an accident is a must. I am not advocating taking a running car apart to change the wood but if it is mostly apart then that is the time to do it right and not try to SAVE as much original wood as possible.
