VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1949-1954 216 Rear Main Leak

About 3 weeks ago I posted the question about replacing the rear main on a 216. A reader was kind enough to provide me with the Stove Bolt Tech Tips website that outlined this procedure. My problem is that I have the pan off and rear main cap removed. The other main caps are loose and the caps dropped about a 1/4 inch. I've pried, pulled, turned and tugged, but I cannot get the crank to drop. The tech tip claims that the crank will drop enough to remove the seal. Currently my crank hasn't budged a bit, nothing. Any suggestions? If I ever get it free, how much can I expect the crank to drop? The car has a clutch and is all stock. Thanks!

Your probably not going to see any drop. All it does is give a couple thousands more clearance so that you can pull the old seal out from above the crank. It then gives you a little more room to slide the new seal in. I hope you have a tool to pull the new rope seal in.

You still have the rods and pistons attached to the crank?

I had to remove my transmission to get the crank to drop.

Jim

Yep, I've still got the rods attached. There is a leak in the tranny as the fluid leaks out almost as soon as it's added. I will probably remove the tranny since I'm this far. If I leave the bellhousing in place and just remove the tranny will I still get some drop? I'm new at this so bear with me, thanks for the help everyone!

The bellhousing can be left in place.

How do you plan on inserting the upper rope seal??...Just remember the seal is designed to be forced in from the sides to the center and not be streched.If you pull the seal thru from one side (or end) pack both ends to compress the seal into the opening before cutting off the ends of the seal.The rods can be left alone as they will slide down with the pistons.

Pull the new seal through almost the full length and then lift the crank almost back to proper position (allowing .010" extra clearance). Then force the seal back through until the tail starts to come back out before you trim either end.
When putting the seal into the lower cap pack it in tightly by sliding hammer handle from each end to middle, this not only packes it down into the groove but leaves a flat surface for the crank to run on.
Tony

I AM NEW TO RE-STORING MY SON BOUGHT ME A 52 CHEV 4 DOOR BODY IS IN MINT SHAPE, IT HAS A 216 ENGINE IN IT, I TOOK THE VALVE COVER AND THE VALVE TRAIN IS VERY CLEAN. NO SLUDGE AT ALL MY QUESTION'IS A216 ENGINE WORTH LEAVING IN OR IS A 235 THE WAY TO GO LEE C

If it ain't fixed - don't brake it.

Leave well enough alone.

If you have a good running 216 that uses very little oil don't smoke or knock, keep it full of good motor oil, change it every six months or 1500 miles, and keep the radiator full of 50-50 coolant year around and it probably will out last me and you, but if it doesn't, then look for a 235 for a replacement, if a 216 replacement may be hard to find and expensive to overhaul (the lower end)

I personally feel there is way to much emphasis on replacing the old 216 work horse with a 235. My experience is that they are nearly bullet proof,reliable and perfectly matched to the use for which they were intended. Yes you can cruise all day at 60/65 with them with out trouble as long as you do a good job of keeping them supplied with clean fresh oil of the proper weight, and maintain the ignition and fuel system as well, all very simple to do.

I will agree with the above.

If the car is to be used for high speed interstate driving I would consider changing the rear end ratio to something better-as a 3.70 from a 1953-54 stick or a 3.54 from a 1950-54 Power Glide.---has a 4.11 stock.

I also agree! I have been driving my '51 Chevy with a 216 for 44 years now and it hasn't given up yet! Even with the stock rear end, the car loves to cruise down the freeway at 65 MPH with no problem. Took the old girl on a 150 mile drive last month and she averaged about 58 MPH overall for the entire trip and the Chevy loved every minute of it! :cool2:

The same here JYD, The 53 is almost the same car as te 51 (stick shift) But then I have been speeding in the old straight sixes since I got my first speeding ticket at 14 doing 70 in a 55. I don't get speeding tickets.

Some folks just don't "feel comfortable" driving anything less than 350 H.P. or towing anything bigger than a riding mower, with a 3/4 ton bigblock.

But true love is a 261 with a 3.55...
Do somebody know of an acrylic seal for the rear main bearing? People around here say that they may free up to 8 hp, with less friction.
As you have a 52 with the side mounts, the best solution,, if you don´t want trucks breathing in your neck in two lane roads, is a 235 full pressure from a 54, They are a direct bolt-on. The best 235 is the 58/62, with more compression and power: 145 hp.Remember that 60 mph are 3,000 rpm with the stock rear end, and this may be too much for a fifty years motor, so think also of a longer rear end.

The 216 splash system in my '51 with the 4:11 rear end loves cruising at 60 to 65 MPH all day long. It has done it for the last 44 years that I have owned the car.... with the same engine and the same rear end. I firmly believe that if it isn't broke..don't fix it. When you take something that works great and then modify it to something else, then you usually run into problems. Heck, that engine and rear end will out last me....just the way it came from the factory.

Returning to the original question, if you want more clearance to install the seal and you are removing the transmission, remove the front cover and you will be able to create a lot of clearance. I would suggest removing the flywheel too.
I take some exception with the Stovebolt tech advice. They talk about using a prybar to force the crankshaft down! Not only is this ill advised but it would only work with a badly worn transmission and pilot bushing.

I must have missed the part about the pry bar!

I also agree that the 216 are a good motor and should not be tosed away so easily. Seams like someone started a rumer a few years back and all the young ones follow the herd.

I think the big deal with the 235rs is the extra power of the 1954 and up. But that has more to do with the advances in compression ratio and nothing to do with the oiling system. I wouldn't trade my 216 for anything!

The oiling system was changed to modernize the engine-plus with aluminum pistons and higher lift camshafts the max. horse power was developed at over 4000 RPM -which is beyond the dipper systems ability.The 216 engines power range was in the 2000-3500 RPM range - which meant it had good power in the normal driving speed ranges.The old oiling system was perfectly adquate for those RPM's...cast iron pistons and all

If a straight six isn't your pleasure, get a 1955 or newer Chevy and stick a 350 stroker in it....like the F O R D street rodders DO!

I want to put one of those new Trailblazer sixes with FI a R2D2 Tranny, computer and all the bells and whistles and a RCA 8 track and a rear seat speaker in my '51 Belair would that get me a 100 point mandatory deduction?
And a split manifold and a couple of glasspacs, some www710x15" Michelins on some Buick real wire wheels! Then I can hang my CREEPERS club plaque from the rear bumper, grow some duck-tails........ VAROOM! and Wheee!....

"See the USA in your Hot Rod Chevrolet!"

Stay with the 216. There's no prettier sound than the soft purr of a 216 engine. It will run all day at legal speeds, maybe more.

But the 261 don´t purr: it roars! A friend has a 49 Caddy. Poor old: was shown a clear pair of heels.
Thing is: The most the original FEEL is preserved, the better. Using some different but Stovebolt parts to slightly update the power of your car is a very interesting choice, as I did.
The next mod is discs: Traffic too fast and too close for the drums.
But I do respect and understand the purists: There´s a kind of secret pleasure in operating a 50 year old machine.
Anybody knows about the FEL PRO acrylic seals?