Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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#342292 05/10/15 08:08 AM
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Backyard Mechanic
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The hood cable broke with the hood closed.

Can you tell me how to get the hood opened without damaging the hood?

Have ordered new cable from the 40's.

Thank you.


Member # 047137 - 1947 Chevrolet 4 door sport sedan
Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


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Good luck on that one! We had the same problem on a 1942 Pontiac Coupe. It took us several days but we were finally able to remove the grille just enough to get up inside with a long rod to release the hood latch.

laugh wink beer2


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A long screwdriver though an opening in the grille, a lot of patience, and several beers......it can be done.

Relax and good luck.


ken48
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There was a guy that posted on ChevyTalk and Jalopy Journal, that made a tool. But the pictures disappeared for me. Might open for you.
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?fid/29/tid/268277/pid/2130655/post/last/#LAST Hood opening tool
http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=620705 hood latch opening tool


1946 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup Purchased 11/18/17 Sold 9/20
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe, Purchased 6/20/2010
1965 Chevy ll 350 Purchased Feb 2021. 3-speed Saginaw Hurst Floor Shifter 3.08 Rear End

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I remember that post with the tool Keith. The pictures won't open for me either...the original poster must have removed the pictures from his ImageShack library.

UPDATE......found the pictures of the tool!!!

Try this...
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/cant-get-hood-up.720973/#post-8016521

Last edited by ken48; 05/10/15 06:11 PM. Reason: Found pictures

ken48
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ken48 #342355 05/10/15 08:10 PM
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Very cool. I saved those pictures on my computere just in case I ever need to make that tool. Thanks for the info!


Dale Carter
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1948 Fleetmaster Convertible
1948 RHD Stylemaster Sedan Delivery
1948 1-Ton Tow Truck
1967 Camaro Coupe
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When had hood that wouldn't open, I managed to reach through the grille on my 48 with large long screw driver and open end wrench that fit the square shank on screw driver and unscrewed the centering bolt and spring assembly from hood. If you wear watch, remove it. I didn't and destroyed the band when I had trouble getting my arm back out.

Jim.

ken48 #342376 05/10/15 11:30 PM
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Thanks Ken. Guess I should have looked a little deeper. I am also saving them to my computer.


1946 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup Purchased 11/18/17 Sold 9/20
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe, Purchased 6/20/2010
1965 Chevy ll 350 Purchased Feb 2021. 3-speed Saginaw Hurst Floor Shifter 3.08 Rear End

2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew
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I've posted this before. I totally eliminated then cable on my '46 and will do the same on my '48. Where the cable attached to the hood lock I drilled out the hole on the lock to accept a 3/16" piece of threaded rod may 4-5" long. I put jam nuts on each side and now have a handle to open the hood by putting my had through the grill. I put a piece of rubber vacuum hose over the threaded rod to protect my fingers. Someone would have to stand on their head to see the latch. It's been working well for 15 years. For an original look you can leave the cable in place, just not hooked up.

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You bet Keith. ok

Now at least three of us have them saved to our own computer!

Tap48.....Sounds like you found a good solution to the "locked" hood problem. How about a couple of pictures?


ken48
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TAP48 #342440 05/11/15 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by TAP48
I've posted this before. I totally eliminated then cable on my '46 and will do the same on my '48. Where the cable attached to the hood lock I drilled out the hole on the lock to accept a 3/16" piece of threaded rod may 4-5" long. I put jam nuts on each side and now have a handle to open the hood by putting my had through the grill. I put a piece of rubber vacuum hose over the threaded rod to protect my fingers. Someone would have to stand on their head to see the latch. It's been working well for 15 years. For an original look you can leave the cable in place, just not hooked up.
Don't you have to cut an opening on the panel under the the latch where the cable would attach, to allow your threaded rod system to work ????

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No cutting was needed at all. Once the threaded rod was attached I simply reattached the latch as you normally would. The little tab on the latch where the cable attached hangs down low enough and the angle of the latch makes it so that the rod clears the panel. The threaded rod is easily accessible through the grill and a simple push to the right and the hood pops up. It's a busy week but I'll try to get some pictures in a day or two.

Last edited by TAP48; 05/12/15 09:35 AM.
TAP48 #342524 05/13/15 10:39 AM
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Just adjusted my hood and remembered about the difficulties of a busted release cable, so while I had the latch assembly off, I drllled a 1/16 inch hole in the latch arm, and attached a thin cable to it, then ran the cable under the panel through a hole drilled in the driver,s side inner fender. I attached a small handle to it, so it can be opened by sticking your arm up in front of the front left wheel.

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I made a tool out of a coat hanger rod that you insert between where the hood and and grill meet. You insert the coat hanger to a marked point on the hanger, turn it approximately 45 degrees, then push the rod and voila! Hood pops open. So simple.


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Hey All,

Thanks for the great thread. My 14yo son and I just picked up a 47' Stylemaster. Hood was popped when we looked at it but we let it slam and didn't know the release cable was rusted tight. Now can't get the dang thing open. We got a couple old long skinnies in the screwdriver drawer. Looks like we'll be fabbing a new tool! Thanks for the information.

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This is what it looks like.

Attached Images
tool1h.jpg tool4.jpg

Russell #38868
'48 4 door Fleetline

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