Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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To get it to puimp you will have to exert a a lot of pressure on the armwith the single pump and a lot,lot more wth the dual pump.


Gene Schneider
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Thanks Gene - I am a little thick in the head. Will you explain to me what you just posted?

Thanks!


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Originally Posted by rangerart71
The gas flows freely from the tank.

Tried the pump from the coffee can and no suction at all.

It appears that I am not getting the pump placed correctly. I can feel the roller and I can feel the slight pressure when I push the lever into the hole.

Will do it again tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help.

Which pump are you trying to mount ?
The single action pump, or the pump with the vacuum assist ?
Has the pump you are trying to install been sitting around for some time ?
Try to make the pump diaphragm operate BEFORE mounting the pump to the block.
Move (compress) the pump actuator lever to allow the diaphragm to move.



1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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Quote
Which pump are you trying to mount ?
The single action pump, or the pump with the vacuum assist ?
Has the pump you are trying to install been sitting around for some time ?

The pump with the vacuum assist. Thought maybe it could have been bad so installed the single action pump from my 216. That one would not work either.

Neither has been sitting around.

I am thinking that I am not getting it centered enough on the roller when I put it in. I am going to do it again tomorrow very carefully. Should that not work I will perhaps use dynamite.

Thank you all for trying so hard to help this old timer with limited talents.


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Originally Posted by rangerart71
Quote
Which pump are you trying to mount ?
The single action pump, or the pump with the vacuum assist ?
Has the pump you are trying to install been sitting around for some time ?

The pump with the vacuum assist. Thought maybe it could have been bad so installed the single action pump from my 216. That one would not work either.

Neither has been sitting around.

I am thinking that I am not getting it centered enough on the roller when I put it in. I am going to do it again tomorrow very carefully. Should that not work I will perhaps use dynamite.

Thank you all for trying so hard to help this old timer with limited talents.

The roller you are speaking of is the eccentric on the camshaft that activates/operates the "lever" on the fuel pump.
If not careful, during installation, it is possible for the fuel pump lever to end up UNDER the camshaft.
If that is the case, in that position, the lever on the fuel pump will not be moved/activated by the camshaft eccentric.

One more far fetched thought, when you are installing the double action pump, you do have #19, the sediment bowl secured in place ... see link below. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/06engine/6_089.HTM



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The Fuel Pump I have is FS-286 Fuel Pump - 6 cycle pump with vacuum assist and no glass bowl. Came from the Filling Station.

Everything looks good and tight with the pump.


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Originally Posted by rangerart71
The Fuel Pump I have is FS-286 Fuel Pump - 6 cycle pump with vacuum assist and no glass bowl. Came from the Filling Station.

Everything looks good and tight with the pump.

OK.

If you have the pump installed and all the lines connected CORRECTLY, disconnect the line to the fuel tank, from the pump.

Have someone crank your engine, while you feel for a suction or "a draw" at the fitting on the pump, where the tank line was connected.

No suction ?

1. One or both fuel pumps are not good. Unlikely.
2. Camshaft is not rotating to activate eccentric. Possible.
3. Fuel pump arm is not being located in correct position, when installed. Probable.



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Well, today went quite well considering...

The starter stopped working. Thankfully I had a back up. Will check to see what is wrong with the old one later.

The vacuum assist fuel pump will be going back. It has a leak in the upper gasket. Looks to me as if there is one screw that is bad and is allowing air to escape. So went to the 216 fuel pump single stage and now have gas to the carburator.

Now to work on getting the old beast started. It did not want to fire up today so will begin to look at all the electrical work that I did to it to make sure that work is correct.

I did work on the accelerator linkage and hope that I have that correct. Not real sure where the return spring is supposed to go but I did find a place for it.

The carburator is as it was when I bought the engine. Trust that it is set up correctly. Will be reading the manual this evening.

The distributor cap was cracked so will order a new one. I probably did that when I was installing the engine in the car.

Any suggestions on how I should proceed or you would proceed to get the car started would be welcomed.

Thank you for all the help.

I will keep the questions coming as long as the car sets in the garage and causes me headaches.

Blessings. Art


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Here is a pic of the engine, showing the accelerator spring, anchored at the oil pan.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/parts/1929_54/085a.htm

You did what kind of electrical work on the engine? Before any advice is given, what you did "electrically" must be known. Did you POSSIBLY have the distributor out? If so, why was it out ?

There are only two settings on the carb. One is idle speed, one is air/fuel mixture. GENTLY, turn mixture screw in, until you feel resistance. GENTLY is the key. Then turn screw out 1 1/2 to 2 full turns. That should get air/fuel mixture in the ballpark. Both are adjustable, once engine is running.



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Dealt with the distributor situation earlier in this Blog of our progress together. [b]I found a 1112403 in pretty good shape however it does not come with the vacuum advance. Purchased the vacuum advance. This was taken from my earlier posting in this blog.
OK. Depending on whether you have the distributor out or not ...

If not out, start on page 12-35, if already out, go to bottom left side of page 12-36.

BE CERTAIN DISTRIBUTOR IS FULLY SEATED, BEFORE STARTING CAR.

IF DISTRIBUTOR IS NOT FULLY SEATED INTO OIL PUMP. CAR WILL START ...... BUT OIL PUMP WILL NOT BE ENGAGED. NO OIL PRESSURE = NO ENGINE !

Click here.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/12electrical/12_36.HTM[/b]


When I purchased the engine there was no distributor - ordered the one mentioned from a guy in Canada and followed all directions listed above installing it.

Plan to walk through that process again to see if I have it right. Please share your experience here relating to installing the distributor should you desire.

Walk me through the process of installing the accelerator linkage if you have time. I had to lengthen the linkage and am wondering if I have it installed correctly.

Thanks for sticking with me fellows and gals during this process. If I had known how many new things I would have to know and do I would have rethought doing this.


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Originally Posted by rangerart71
Dealt with the distributor situation earlier in this Blog of our progress together. [b]I found a 1112403 in pretty good shape however it does not come with the vacuum advance. Purchased the vacuum advance. This was taken from my earlier posting in this blog.
OK. Depending on whether you have the distributor out or not ...

If not out, start on page 12-35, if already out, go to bottom left side of page 12-36.

BE CERTAIN DISTRIBUTOR IS FULLY SEATED, BEFORE STARTING CAR.

IF DISTRIBUTOR IS NOT FULLY SEATED INTO OIL PUMP. CAR WILL START ...... BUT OIL PUMP WILL NOT BE ENGAGED. NO OIL PRESSURE = NO ENGINE !

Click here.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/12electrical/12_36.HTM[/b]


When I purchased the engine there was no distributor - ordered the one mentioned from a guy in Canada and followed all directions listed above installing it.

Plan to walk through that process again to see if I have it right. Please share your experience here relating to installing the distributor should you desire.

Walk me through the process of installing the accelerator linkage if you have time. I had to lengthen the linkage and am wondering if I have it installed correctly.

Thanks for sticking with me fellows and gals during this process. If I had known how many new things I would have to know and do I would have rethought doing this.

This thread has become lengthy, I did not recall the distributor postings.

If you follow page 12-36 exactly, you distributor will be in correctly and you will be in proper timing.

IF NOT, it will not start. It must be done correctly, exactly, no maybes here.

If you have lengthened the linkage, and the carb opens completely, when gas pedal is fully depressed, you're good. A straight forward process on the linkage.

Yes, you have jumped into the lake on this project, the deep end of the lake, but you seem to be getting through it all. Soon, you'll be giving all the advice, with your "hands on" experience.

You mentioned a VCCA friend was assisting you. He will continue to be your "advisor", if he's still assisting.

Keep the questions coming, if needed.

Here to help, when possible. dance



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Thanks Bob for all the help and other VCCA members as well.

I am coming close to the end of the questions: Here is one of the few remaining.

Does anyone out there have a picture of how the accelerator linkage should look once it has been adjusted for the 235 from the 216?

The reason I ask is that there are two places the linkage can be mounted. One right under the exhaust and one to the right of the one under the exhaust. (closer to the accelerator pedal).

The one being used is the one under the exhaust and I am having a difficult time adjusting the linkage to fit correctly.

Thank you Art


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Originally Posted by rangerart71
Thanks Bob for all the help and other VCCA members as well.

I am coming close to the end of the questions: Here is one of the few remaining.

Does anyone out there have a picture of how the accelerator linkage should look once it has been adjusted for the 235 from the 216?

The reason I ask is that there are two places the linkage can be mounted. One right under the exhaust and one to the right of the one under the exhaust. (closer to the accelerator pedal).

The one being used is the one under the exhaust and I am having a difficult time adjusting the linkage to fit correctly.

Thank you Art

I will try to get a linkage pic for you, on 5/5/15, from my '51, with a '55 235 engine.

Pic will have to be sent to your email address, since I do not have good fortune trying to post pics here.



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Thanks Bob - figured it out last night.

Found pictures on the internet.

Confusing as too which mounting point to use.

Thanks Again.


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Originally Posted by rangerart71
Thanks Bob - figured it out last night.

Found pictures on the internet.

Confusing as too which mounting point to use.

Thanks Again.

OK, good that you got it figured out, now share what you did with the rest of us, so we know. dance



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Remember - I am 72 years old and in good mind and sound judgement. BUT sometimes figure things out later rather then sooner.

I simply turned the pivot around so it was facing the Right direction instead of the Wrong direction and it was just fine.

Thanks again for all the straight forward directions.

Last edited by rangerart71; 05/05/15 01:31 PM.

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However, much earlier in the dialog we discussed distributors. We felt a 1112403 would be the right distributor for my 235 engine.

DO WE STILL AGREE WITH THAT?[b][/b]

If so - the distributor came but without a rotor - condensor - or cap.

What year rotor - condensor - cap do I purchase for that distributor if it is the right one?

Last edited by rangerart71; 05/05/15 01:35 PM.

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Your supplier should be able to give you the correct parts with the distributor part number.


Steve D
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Originally Posted by rangerart71
Remember - I am 72 years old and in good mind and sound judgement. BUT sometimes figure things out later rather then sooner.

I simply turned the pivot around so it was facing the Right direction instead of the Wrong direction and it was just fine.

Thanks again for all the straight forward directions.

Good that you are properly pivoting, now.

We are the same age. Figuring things out later, rather than "not figuring things out at all" is a good thing.

"Better late than never". You've heard that a million times ..... probably all quoted by 70 plus year old folks. dance yay



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1955
Looks like a good number for 1955.


Russell #38868
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Originally Posted by rangerart71
However, much earlier in the dialog we discussed distributors. We felt a 1112403 would be the right distributor for my 235 engine.

DO WE STILL AGREE WITH THAT?[b][/b]

If so - the distributor came but without a rotor - condensor - or cap.

What year rotor - condensor - cap do I purchase for that distributor if it is the right one?

I do not care to have Chevy info, beyond 1957.

That being said, the 1112403 fits '55 to '57 6 cylinders, perhaps more.

Ordering dist. parts for '55, '56 or '57 will work for you.



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I agree. The points, condenser, cap and rotor will be the same for 1953 (with 235( and 1954-1962.


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I have been checking the electric current - it comes into the coil with a nice bright light - comes out of the coil with a dim light.

Perhaps a problem with the coil - however, once again it is brand new. I have three other ones that I will try tomorrow to see if I can get that nice bright flow out of the coil as I see it going into the coil.

Then follow it to the distributor. The I should get that same nice flow of current to the points when the points are open. So I will see what I have there and continue to follow the current flow to the spark plugs.

This should give me some answers.

Any other suggestions please feel free to share.

From what I see in the previous post - the condenser - points - distributor cap for a 1954 Chevrolet 235 should be the right parts for this distributor.

Please correct me should I be wrong. Thank you!


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'54 and up. dance



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Well I must have gotten all the stars in a roll because the 235 started up this morning. Two times!

Then I went to working on the muffler system. Thought I would start it again and it wouldn't start.

Sounds real good and didn't see much smoke from the header pipe.

The problem I kept running into over and over is current to the coil - current to the plug on the coil - current to the side of the distributor - current to the points.

However, most of the time I am getting current at the points and the outside wire that is connected from the coil to the side of the distributor(this should not be happening. No current to the spark plug wires.

However, in that it started once it must be able to start again if I can figure just what is happening.

Thanks again for all the help. Would not have gotten this far without VCCA friends.


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