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I recently purchased what I believe is a 1921 490. The engine is missing a few key components, like the distributor and such. While I've been shopping, it seems as though it would be easier to replace the whole motor with 1928, because the 1921 parts are far more difficult to locate. My original intention was to make a 50's style rod out of it, but I have chosen to try and restore it because it is in such beautiful shape. With that being said, I was thinking of pepping up the 1921 engine with 1928 pistons and head, but I am unsure how many many parts are truly interchangeable. The same goes for the engine swap, does the 28 drop in and bolt directly to the 21 transmission, or am I in for a beating?
I'm looking for some opinions to get this beast on the road. Due to school and work, I have not had the opportunity to tear the motor down yet, but I suspect it is ceased.
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Blue welcome to VCCA. Restoration is the way to go, lots of enjoyment driving around slow. I am not sure but It just might bolt right up. There are many here that know much more than I about that as my time is spent in 27-28. There is an earlier post from a guy with a 21 speedster that someone put a 28 engine in. more soon from VCCA. Ken
I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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DWD, There is significant difference between 21 and 28. Nothing will cross over as the trans, clutch and engine block are completely different. All of the parts for your 21 are available, it just takes a lot of research and networking to locate. Joining VCCA would be a great step towards linking up with some knowledgeable folks who are more than willing to assist you in your restoration. You will also find this group is only interested in the restoration of old Chevrolets and frown upon turning them into street rods. Good Luck with your project! Best Regards, Tom
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Blue would follow Toms advice. However I have a 1928 engine in my 1927 which is an easy swap. The 28 engine is stronger. Try to stay with 1921. Ken
I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Welcome! I recommend you also to visit the 1916-1922 Forum. Not as many posts as on this 1912-1928 Forum, and I guess not such great, assembeled knowledge and experience. I always check both.
I have had my 1922 490 since 2006. It was running when I bought it, and I have been driving it nearly 10 000 kilometers (16 000 miles), nice driving. I have overhauled the motor, the cone clutch, the drive train, the rear axle etc. Most parts were easy to find, at reasonble prices, some parts were more difficult, for instance drive shaft and rear axle shafts.
Per-Åke Larsson
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help from around the world !
I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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How do you feel about placing a 1928 head on the 21 block? From what I've been reading that appears to be a direct bolt on, but I am not a mechanic and I have extremely limit mechanical abilities. This is going to be a trial by fire, but I am all about it. I've also located a website that has new aluminum pistons. The website "says" 1914-1928, but we all know salesman.
I truly appreciate all your input, thanks a ton,
David
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It is my understanding that a 28 head will bolt on and I have seen new pistons on ebay cheap, might look for another engine
Last edited by Ken_Naber; 11/10/14 10:57 PM.
I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Three years ago, we had a guy show up with a similarly modified car. other than the updated head it appeared to be completely stock and was gorgeous. I think it was a 1925 Chev Roadster. Unfortunately, knowing about his "modifications" the judges told him in advance that he wouldn't have any success by entering in the normal VCCA Class judging. And this was a real shame since the car was so beautifully restored. So, since the VCCA Area 3 allows for "personalized" cars to be judged separately under a different set of criteria, he decided to enter his car in the Personalized Judging class. What made this interesting is that his car was at least 30 years older than the next personalized one. If I remember correctly they were a couple of early 50's and a 1960 car. All of them were done very, very nicely with only subtle improvements -- but, naturally, not eligible for any decent ranking under the standard VCCA judging rules. Well, to make a long story short, the 1925 Roadster WON the Personalized class of judging. The Chief Judge even sent the team back out on the field to double check the points that they assigned - and they confirmed that the '25 was most deserving. So, in reading your posting and seeing where you are headed, I wanted to commend you for going the extra mile to keep your car on the road - and for trying to make it even more road worthy than the original. When you're done, 99.99% of the people that ooh and aah over the finished product won't know the difference. And while it appears that you may not be eligible for any VCCA awards in the future, I can tell you that if you want more formal recognition, that there are some circles that will welcome you. While the VCCA may not be one of them, we still appreciate what you're doing. You are welcome to TOUR with us anytime.
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Thank you Ken, that looks like the route I will most likely take. I've been reading about freeing a seized motor, so I'll know more once I get it all apart.
Bill, I didn't really want to modify it after I saw it in person. I bought it off of an ad and the seller took great pictures. I was honestly hoping that it was going to be a turd because I wanted to tear it up, but once it arrived from New York I couldn't believe how cool it was in its original state. While we were unloading it off if the car carrier, people were stopping and climbing around in/on it. All the knobs, badges, lights, and lens, were there. The interior was complete except for the glass over the speedometer and the serial plate (It's missing mostly the ignition system). I knew then, that there was no way I was going to chop it up. Now I am just trying to get it road worthy for Fort Lauderdale without taking away from the nostalgia.
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I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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This website has pistons and such: http://www.kanter.comI am in search of a reasonable 1928 head. There is one on ebay, but the guy wants $900.00. I've seen them for sale for about $200.00, but I didn't have the spare cash at that time to swoop in and make a purchase.
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all comes to those who wait, that's ebay! 28 heads for 99 bucks soon. problem is always cracks, got a few with cracks and a few that I think are not cracked. costs 50 bucks to find out. anyone got a neat trick for finding cracks?
I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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A friend who worked in a resto shop said that if you tap it with a hammer and it rings like a bell its swell.. If the sound is thunk-its junk!! His words not mine..
Steve D
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Steve gonna try that this weekend, have cracked heads and good heads will listen to them! were all the valves in place springs etc? will keep you posted. Ken
Last edited by Ken_Naber; 11/13/14 10:35 PM.
I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Bare head only-nothing to dampen the "ring".
Steve D
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I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Ken,
Are your heads complete with all the valves, springs, and etcetera?
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You should be able to find a head near you. they are not particularly scarce. You will need an exhaust manifold as well. Good luck. Got any photos to share???
Mike
Last edited by 35Mike; 11/16/14 10:26 PM.
ml.russell1936@gmail.com
Many miles of happy motoring
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David I have a couple of 28 heads complete, never had them checked for cracks. I think they are good but. I always thought to find a good head buy a complete engine, when you buy a head off an engine I tell myself someone took it off for some reason and there is a good chance that it has a problem. A complete engine is complete usually because its good. In my opinion buy a head already redone, it can cost 800-1000 but you know its good, I planned to get mine redone and sell them before I bite the bullet but they will not be cheap. A good valve job alone costs 400 bucks or so, you are playing Russian roulette buying anything else. If you want to pay for the crack test at the local machine shop let me know. I will not sell one unless I know its not cracked. Watch out for cheap heads, I got a few laying around. Jerrychev from California paid 500 bucks to get his cracks fixed, he could tell you all about it. Ken
Last edited by Ken_Naber; 11/17/14 12:45 PM.
I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Speaking of cracks in a '28 head, I repaired a hairline crack in Justin's head with JB Weld and then filed it flat. As you face the engine, the crack was located near the top right corner, just behind the thermostat housing. I knew it was there because radiator fluid leaked out and ran down the side of the engine.
I took the head off and using a dremel, I widened the crack inside the water jacket. After cleaning the crack with a Qtip and Acetone, I filled it with JB Weld. After a couple of days, I filed the thermostat housing surface flat and put the head back on the engine.
The leak was significantly reduced, but still dribbled a little. So, at the advice of some good folks here on the forum, I put Bars Leak in the radiator.
I have driven my truck around 200 miles since that operation and the leak seems to be completely gone. ;-)
Maybe this procedure only works when the crack is in a non-critical place. Dunno.
Cheers, Dean
Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz old and ugly is beautiful!
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Dean you own some stock in that JB Weld Ken
I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Dean I've never heard of a 28 head being cracked and I've had 28's for 45 years.
However, when using Bars Leak, DO NOT use the pellets, just the liquid, as the pellets will clough up the honeycomb radiator.
In my 28 CSC I use Bars Rust Inhibitor to stop the rusting inside the block. I've seen reconditioned engines crack in the block when pulling down the head, therefore ruining the new engine, as the rust inside thins out the walls.
BTW I just had my 34 Master head fully recondioned including new valve guides (I supplied the new valves) and the cost was $190.
Chris
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I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Yes, I used the liquid Bars Leak.
Thanks, Dean
Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz old and ugly is beautiful!
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Ken is right, it did cost me a lot of money to save the head. My 27 is a 27 1/2 so the valves are different that the early 27. I looked for a similar head to keep it all original and could only find ones that looked worse then mine. I found a engine shop that specialized in repairing blocks and heads that are difficult to find. The first thing they did was pressure check the head and found 4 cracks 3 inside and 1 at the exhaust. This is what they did, they cut the head open about 2 inches by 4 inches. Than they cast welded what the could and also bronze welded a spot, then to make sure the inside was solid the floated porcelain to add strength. Works great and no more leaks. The 27 heads were know to crack because of the single exhaust, the 28 came with dual exhaust and eliminated the cracking problems. One final thing never use head/block sealant, it can stop some leaks but it will screw up your radiator. I know that because I tried it before spending the money on the head. I did screw up my radiator with that stuff. The guy at the radiator shop told if I had to use the stop leak I should mix it with water a little at a time and that put it in the radiator slowly while the engine was running, also keep the engine running for a while to make sure the stop leak does not settle to the bottom of the radiator.
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I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Well, I took the gamble and jumped in the game. I just bought a 1928 head and it arrived Thursday. I am going to clean it up a little and then send it out for a flow test.
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I suggest pressure test and vacuum test, good luck with your project!
I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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I pulled the engine apart today. It was seized. I put Mystery oil in the four cylinders. Hoping a good soak will turn things around. I think the head is shot. The valves were rusted into the head. I was also unable to remove the distributor. I saturated it in penetrating oil. Thanks to a new friend from the VCCA on Facebook, I was informed the 1921 is actually a mid 1922 or 1923.
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Well, I pulled the engine and transmission today. It was initially much easier than I had expected. When I pulled the sleeve back on the torque tube (I think that's what it is called) the universal joint and assembly was rusted. I got it apart with a little difficulty and progressed.
I pulled the engine and transmission as one. That was the last easy part. When I pulled apart the transmission, it was really rusty and it was holding water..... Yes, I said water. I sprayed the water out with penetrating oil and then filled it with some oil. I didn't disassemble it further. I will deal with that debacle next.
I was unable to free the motor. It is still seized. The clutch assembly was rusted into the flywheel. I spent the rest of the evening freeing it.
I guess I am going to stand it on its end and remove the oil pan next weekend and see where I stand.
I think this car may have been submerged so I can only image what other treasures I find along the way.
Honestly, I'm enjoying every moment of it.
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Thanks for the updates! Yes, these old cars bring lots of surprises. But they also bring lots of warm-fuzzy moments when you overcome a particular challenge.
Enjoy the journey!!
Cheers, Dean
Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz old and ugly is beautiful!
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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I have seen before and after photos of Ford Model T engines that the crank case was packed solid with mouse nest(and other mouse stuff they leave behind) with the pistons/valves well rusted in place brought back to life. Where there is a will there is a way!
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I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Dean I've never heard of a 28 head being cracked and I've had 28's for 45 years. Chris I've not struck a cracked twin-port head either, they are not at all prone to cracking. Single ports, well that's another thing !! Al
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Independently over the past week I've had a few reputable auto body guys by to inspect the car. Everyone recomended pulling it apart and doing a complete restoration.
I was in deep water before, now I am completely over my head. Tomorrow, I'm going to see if I can get the motor on the stand and then I am going to start disassembling the body. Besides taking lots of pictures, does anyone have any recommendations?
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do not throw anything out, take your time, post pics and all of use will encourage you! also offer our comments.
I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Trying to learn here.
One poster here says nothing interchanges between the '21 and the '28, but others say the '28 head is a direct bolt on for the '21.
Which way is correct here?
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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One bit of evidence about whether the '28 head will bolt onto a '21 is that the ads for new head gaskets for these engines state that the same gasket will work on 1916-1928 engines (for example, part G-500C from the Filling Station).
So, the head should 'bolt' on. I don't know enough about the different cams to comment on whether you need to modify the rocker arms.
Cheers, Dean
Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz old and ugly is beautiful!
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One bit of evidence about whether the '28 head will bolt onto a '21 is that the ads for new head gaskets for these engines state that the same gasket will work on 1916-1928 engines (for example, part G-500C from the Filling Station).
So, the head should 'bolt' on. I don't know enough about the different cams to comment on whether you need to modify the rocker arms.
Cheers, Dean So, the parts do interchange plus the availability of parts is out there. All good news for the original poster, B.C.490. I learned, as well. Thanks for the reply, Dean.
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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The Rocker Arms on a 28 are offset, all previous are equal. This is to open the valves a bit further.
Some say "Street is neat". I prefer "1928 is great" I have documented my 45 years with a 1928 Chev Tourer, from 1973 to 2018, and regulary add other items that I hope are of interest to others. Your comments are most welcome.The story of the Red Chev can be viewed at http://my28chev.blogspot.com/
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The engine is completely apart. There was water in the oil pan so subsequently flipping it around resulted in there being water all over the rest of it. I disassembled it with ease once I freed the flywheel. Once I started spraying it with penetrating lube, I won the battle.
The bearings are shot. The crank and cam appeared to be okay. Looking for a machine shop in Fort Lauderdale.
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Long term storage in a humid environment will result in water in the oil pan. The crankcase takes in humid air as it gets cooler, the water condenses and does not exit when the temperature rises. Same thing happens to gasoline tank, particularly when not full of gasoline. That is why some many oil pans and gas tanks have rust holes.
Looks like the engine is in better condition than I expected from the prior descriptions.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Yeah, I was suprised too. I was hoping for the best but expecting the worst. I would post pictures, but I can't figure out how.
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Stripped the 1928 head today. It was a little rougher than I initially thought. It took me a few hours to free all the valves. I cannot for the life of me free the coolant spout on the front of the head. I even used a breaker bar and impact gun after dousing it with oil. I am going to work on that problem on Sunday.
Has anyone ordered from Kanter Auto Products? I see they have valves, springs, pistons, rings, and such. I am pretty sure I am going to need all of the above.
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I ordered my pistons from them and they were EGGE pistons which I was trying to avoid. I did use them and they have been fine, but you may want to do some research to see who actually manufactures the parts you order.
Steve D
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Egge! I was just researching the forum and saw that name. I was on their site when you posted. I didn't see what I was looking for, I might have to call.
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You might want to try an ad in the parts wanted section as some members have parts that they are sometimes willing to part with. Also if you are a VCCA member there are vendors that advertise in the club magazine but do not do so on this chat site. The pistons most likely will come with pins and if so be sure to check your old ones as they may be oversize.
Steve D
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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 49
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 49 |
Over the last few months I wrapped up college. So, I am back in the trenches now that I have some free time.
The head, block, cam, and crank, went to the machine shop this morning. Waiting on the call for that financial beating.
I fiddled with the transmission afterwards.
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 25
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 25 |
I am finishing up the rebuild on a 27 block with 28 head. I have the correct (28) rocker arms, so geometry is all ok, HOWEVER, neither 27 (too short) or 28 (too long) push rods will fit. Anyone know what correct length of push rods should be for this modification?
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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 49
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 49 |
This is concerning....
Please keep me abreast if you discover the solution. I only have the rods from the 1927.
Thanks.
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511 Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
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ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511 Likes: 47 |
Just a seat-of-the-pants-engineering thought:
1. On a compression stroke for a particular cylinder, put in a '27 pushrod (with end cap) and adjust the rocker adjustment screw to half its travel.
2. Measure the gap between the top of the valve to the valve surface on the rocker.
3. Add the measurement obtained in step 2 to the length of the '27 push rod and that is the total length of push rods that you need.
4. Either make new push rods, shorten the '28s, or shorten the valve stems.
Cheers, Dean
Last edited by Rustoholic; 06/21/15 12:45 PM. Reason: added a few words
Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz old and ugly is beautiful!
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 25
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 25 |
Thanks to all who offered help on my question about pushrod length for a 28 head on a 27 block. Here is how I finally solved the issue.
I made an adjustable pushrod gauge from some threaded rod and a small bit of pipe that the rods (two pieces with locking nuts) could slide in. With this adjustable device I could shorten or lengthen the gauge til I had what seemed to be the best fit. My result: required length - about 10 5/8 or 1/4 inch longer than a 27 rod (which is 10 3/8).
I cut the ends off of some 28 pushrods, rounded the ends (but did not harden the cut end) and placed this cut end in the cups (top end). Got advice to place hardened ends in the tappets. Not sure how well these will hold up, but we'll see...
Thanks again. Great to have some experts just a blog away.
Dave
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,294
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
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Why not try to harden them? Just heat till cherry red and quench in oil. Hit with a file will tell if hard.
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,213
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
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The push rods are normally hardened about 3/4" from each end.
CJP'S 29
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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 49
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 49 |
I was at the machine shop today, it was a virgin block. So it was bored .030 over and it's like new. We ordered the engine kit from EGGE. The crank will be sent out early next week.
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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 49
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 49 |
The machine shop found a guy to make the bearings. He collect all the stuff. I was trying to get "cheap" with it by reusing the rods. He called me a few days later and advised I had three of one (351663) and one of another. Of course the odd one had a cap that didn't marry well with the rod besides the fact it weighed more. Amazingly, after some shopping I found a cap and rod that matched the other three for $25.00. It arrived today. I'm getting closer.
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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 49
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 49 |
Well, after several years I finally got the engine back and it is currently sitting the car.
I did not have to modify the rods to accommodate the 1928 head. The rods from the previous setup worked fine and everything was able to be adjusted.
I moved earlier this year and in the move things were misplaced. So, I purchased a RAKXO to replace the one I lost; expensive lesson. Additionally, I had the 635B distributor refurbished.
The only remaining item directly attached to the block I need to replace is the water pump. The oil-pump, when tested, was able to pump mineral spirits, so I decided to leave it alone and reuse it.
I am currently battling with locating the proper spark plugs. I purchased Champion W89D plugs and they do not fit. It appeared as though the spark plugs were threaded differently. Also, several other plugs listed as replacements for the Autolite 3077 were not even close. Looking for assistance with this matter.
I am also battling with the pressure plate. I had to disassemble it when I originally took it out. Most parts I can find someone who refurbishes them, like the cam and such, but I have had no luck with this particular piece. So, I'm also looking for someone knowledgeable to send this part to so they can fix my handiwork.
Thanks, David
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,213
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
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All 4cyl Chevs use the same spark plug thread diameter and thread pitch,which is 7/8" diameter X 18 threads per inch. Perhaps you need to run a 7/8" X 18 TPI spark plug tap through the threaded holes in your cylinder head,as they may be full of dirt/carbon etc,or have damaged threads.
Last edited by CJP'S 29; 12/31/17 10:34 PM.
CJP'S 29
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 105
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 105 |
I am currently battling with locating the proper spark plugs. I purchased Champion W89D plugs and they do not fit. It appeared as though the spark plugs were threaded differently. Also, several other plugs listed as replacements for the Autolite 3077 were not even close. Looking for assistance with this matter. David Hi David, I had a 26/27 head which had apparently been manufactured in the 30s as a spare part for the earlier cars which used modern sized 14mm spark plugs. Perhaps you have one of these? The thread on these is a smaller diameter than the original plugs. Frank.
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511 Likes: 47
ChatMaster - 3,000
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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Posts: 3,511 Likes: 47 |
Hey David, Good to hear that you are making progress! I have two '28 engines. One has the 3077 plugs and the other has W89D. Both plugs have the same threads (7/8-18). Are your spark plug holes larger in diameter or smaller than the W89D threads? If smaller, I suspect that the previous owner of your '28 head put adapters in the holes in order to use a more modern plug. You might be able to see whether an adapter is in there by looking at the holes from the cylinder's side (as if the pistons were looking at the bottom of the plug). Below is a picture of a tool that I made from an old spark plug to chase the spark plug threads in the engine that I'm rebuilding for Lurch. Hope this helps. Dean
Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz old and ugly is beautiful!
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,213
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
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If the cylinder head has either spark plug adaptors fitted or the plug holes were drilled & tapped for smaller thread diameter & thread pitch plugs,you'll have fun trying to find a modern plug with enough reach toward the combustion chamber,as well as the correct heat range. If it has adaptors take them out and fit 7/8" plugs,or if the spark plug holes are drilled and tapped for smaller more modern plugs,get them machined & tapped to the correct size.
CJP'S 29
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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 49
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 49 |
Thanks for the reassurance. It was the plugs. The first plug, and another, have factory defects.
This morning I checked the threads in the cylinder head and they were in great shape; no debris or burs. After trying to thread the spark plug into all four spots, I unboxed another one. I was able to thread the second one all the way down in all four cylinders. This was also the case with the third. However, the last one I was only able to get about halfway in all the cylinders. So, I'll have to send those two back.
Thanks for the help. Now I just need to get the pressure plate sorted out.
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,213
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
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Instead of returning the plugs with the "oversize" threads,why not try running a thread file(thread restorer)over them first?Might save time & a few $$$
CJP'S 29
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