Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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Shade Tree Mechanic
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I recently purchased what I believe is a 1921 490. The engine is missing a few key components, like the distributor and such. While I've been shopping, it seems as though it would be easier to replace the whole motor with 1928, because the 1921 parts are far more difficult to locate. My original intention was to make a 50's style rod out of it, but I have chosen to try and restore it because it is in such beautiful shape. With that being said, I was thinking of pepping up the 1921 engine with 1928 pistons and head, but I am unsure how many many parts are truly interchangeable. The same goes for the engine swap, does the 28 drop in and bolt directly to the 21 transmission, or am I in for a beating?

I'm looking for some opinions to get this beast on the road. Due to school and work, I have not had the opportunity to tear the motor down yet, but I suspect it is ceased.

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Blue
welcome to VCCA. Restoration is the way to go, lots of enjoyment driving around slow. I am not sure but It just might bolt right up. There are many here that know much more than I about that as my time is spent in 27-28. There is an earlier post from a guy with a 21 speedster that someone put a 28 engine in. more soon from VCCA.
Ken


I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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DWD,
There is significant difference between 21 and 28. Nothing will cross over as the trans, clutch and engine block are completely different. All of the parts for your 21 are available, it just takes a lot of research and networking to locate. Joining VCCA would be a great step towards linking up with some knowledgeable folks who are more than willing to assist you in your restoration. You will also find this group is only interested in the restoration of old Chevrolets and frown upon turning them into street rods.
Good Luck with your project!
Best Regards, Tom

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would follow Toms advice. However I have a 1928 engine in my 1927 which is an easy swap. The 28 engine is stronger. Try to stay with 1921.
Ken


I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Welcome! I recommend you also to visit the 1916-1922 Forum. Not as many posts as on this 1912-1928 Forum, and I guess not such great, assembeled knowledge and experience. I always check both.

I have had my 1922 490 since 2006. It was running when I bought it, and I have been driving it nearly 10 000 kilometers (16 000 miles), nice driving. I have overhauled the motor, the cone clutch, the drive train, the rear axle etc. Most parts were easy to find, at reasonble prices, some parts were more difficult, for instance drive shaft and rear axle shafts.


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help from around the world !


I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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How do you feel about placing a 1928 head on the 21 block? From what I've been reading that appears to be a direct bolt on, but I am not a mechanic and I have extremely limit mechanical abilities. This is going to be a trial by fire, but I am all about it. I've also located a website that has new aluminum pistons. The website "says" 1914-1928, but we all know salesman.

I truly appreciate all your input, thanks a ton,

David

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It is my understanding that a 28 head will bolt on and I have seen new pistons on ebay cheap, might look for another engine


Last edited by Ken_Naber; 11/10/14 10:57 PM.

I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Three years ago, we had a guy show up with a similarly modified car. other than the updated head it appeared to be completely stock and was gorgeous. I think it was a 1925 Chev Roadster.

Unfortunately, knowing about his "modifications" the judges told him in advance that he wouldn't have any success by entering in the normal VCCA Class judging. And this was a real shame since the car was so beautifully restored.

So, since the VCCA Area 3 allows for "personalized" cars to be judged separately under a different set of criteria, he decided to enter his car in the Personalized Judging class.

What made this interesting is that his car was at least 30 years older than the next personalized one. If I remember correctly they were a couple of early 50's and a 1960 car. All of them were done very, very nicely with only subtle improvements -- but, naturally, not eligible for any decent ranking under the standard VCCA judging rules.

Well, to make a long story short, the 1925 Roadster WON the Personalized class of judging. The Chief Judge even sent the team back out on the field to double check the points that they assigned - and they confirmed that the '25 was most deserving.
chevy

So, in reading your posting and seeing where you are headed, I wanted to commend you for going the extra mile to keep your car on the road - and for trying to make it even more road worthy than the original. When you're done, 99.99% of the people that ooh and aah over the finished product won't know the difference. And while it appears that you may not be eligible for any VCCA awards in the future, I can tell you that if you want more formal recognition, that there are some circles that will welcome you. While the VCCA may not be one of them, we still appreciate what you're doing. You are welcome to TOUR with us anytime.

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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thank you Ken, that looks like the route I will most likely take. I've been reading about freeing a seized motor, so I'll know more once I get it all apart.

Bill, I didn't really want to modify it after I saw it in person. I bought it off of an ad and the seller took great pictures. I was honestly hoping that it was going to be a turd because I wanted to tear it up, but once it arrived from New York I couldn't believe how cool it was in its original state. While we were unloading it off if the car carrier, people were stopping and climbing around in/on it. All the knobs, badges, lights, and lens, were there. The interior was complete except for the glass over the speedometer and the serial plate (It's missing mostly the ignition system). I knew then, that there was no way I was going to chop it up. Now I am just trying to get it road worthy for Fort Lauderdale without taking away from the nostalgia.

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here is a 22 engine down south

http://bham.craigslist.org/pts/4675648739.html

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I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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This website has pistons and such: http://www.kanter.com

I am in search of a reasonable 1928 head. There is one on ebay, but the guy wants $900.00. I've seen them for sale for about $200.00, but I didn't have the spare cash at that time to swoop in and make a purchase.

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all comes to those who wait, that's ebay! 28 heads for 99 bucks soon. problem is always cracks, got a few with cracks and a few that I think are not cracked. costs 50 bucks to find out. anyone got a neat trick for finding cracks?


I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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A friend who worked in a resto shop said that if you tap it with a hammer and it rings like a bell its swell.. If the sound is thunk-its junk!! His words not mine..


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gonna try that this weekend, have cracked heads and good heads will listen to them! were all the valves in place springs etc? will keep you posted.
Ken

Last edited by Ken_Naber; 11/13/14 10:35 PM.

I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Bare head only-nothing to dampen the "ring".


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I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Ken,

Are your heads complete with all the valves, springs, and etcetera?

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You should be able to find a head near you. they are not particularly scarce. You will need an exhaust manifold as well. Good luck.
Got any photos to share???

Mike

Last edited by 35Mike; 11/16/14 10:26 PM.

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David
I have a couple of 28 heads complete, never had them checked for cracks. I think they are good but. I always thought to find a good head buy a complete engine, when you buy a head off an engine I tell myself someone took it off for some reason and there is a good chance that it has a problem. A complete engine is complete usually because its good. In my opinion buy a head already redone, it can cost 800-1000 but you know its good, I planned to get mine redone and sell them before I bite the bullet but they will not be cheap. A good valve job alone costs 400 bucks or so, you are playing Russian roulette buying anything else. If you want to pay for the crack test at the local machine shop let me know. I will not sell one unless I know its not cracked. Watch out for cheap heads, I got a few laying around. Jerrychev from California paid 500 bucks to get his cracks fixed, he could tell you all about it.
Ken

Last edited by Ken_Naber; 11/17/14 12:45 PM.

I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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Speaking of cracks in a '28 head, I repaired a hairline crack in Justin's head with JB Weld and then filed it flat. As you face the engine, the crack was located near the top right corner, just behind the thermostat housing. I knew it was there because radiator fluid leaked out and ran down the side of the engine.

I took the head off and using a dremel, I widened the crack inside the water jacket. After cleaning the crack with a Qtip and Acetone, I filled it with JB Weld. After a couple of days, I filed the thermostat housing surface flat and put the head back on the engine.

The leak was significantly reduced, but still dribbled a little. So, at the advice of some good folks here on the forum, I put Bars Leak in the radiator.

I have driven my truck around 200 miles since that operation and the leak seems to be completely gone. ;-)

Maybe this procedure only works when the crack is in a non-critical place. Dunno.

Cheers, Dean



Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz
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Dean
you own some stock in that JB Weld
Ken


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Dean
I've never heard of a 28 head being cracked and I've had 28's for 45 years.

However, when using Bars Leak, DO NOT use the pellets, just the liquid, as the pellets will clough up the honeycomb radiator.

In my 28 CSC I use Bars Rust Inhibitor to stop the rusting inside the block. I've seen reconditioned engines crack in the block when pulling down the head, therefore ruining the new engine, as the rust inside thins out the walls.

BTW I just had my 34 Master head fully recondioned including new valve guides (I supplied the new valves) and the cost was $190.

Chris

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how much for valves?


I have a 1927 Chevy Capital AA 4 Door also a 1927 Chevy Touring car, a 1936 Chevy 1/2 ton and a 2010 Corvette LT3 Convertible and a 1953 Packard Caribbean. My tow car is a 2011 Suburban.
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