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I have had no trouble with my 39 overheating since replacing the old core with a 3 row, about 14 fins per inch. Yesterday while returning from the VCCA meet in Burbank it got hot to the point I had to stop and let it cool. I have had no problems with outside air at 70-80 but yesterday it was 110+ in stop and go traffic. It would cool when air was moving but slowly climbed up 212+ and I had to stop. So my question is would outside air have a direct effect on engine temperature and it was just to hot to be out in stop and go with the old car or might I need to look for another problem?
I am running a 160 degree stat.
Thanks Dave
Last edited by Dave39MD; 09/15/14 11:23 AM.
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So my question is would outside air have a direct effect on engine temperature Yes, very much so. and it was just to hot to be out in stop and go with the old car Yes again, you may find that putting a shroud around the fan might help some. Your finding that air moving through the radiator, "It would cool when air was moving" speaks volumes. I've also heard of folks putting 6v pusher fans in front of the radiator to help push more air through at low speeds.
VCCA Member 43216
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1938 HB Business Coupe
1953 210 Sedan
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I would consider this normal in 110 Deg. temp. and stop and go driving.
A helper fan may help.
Also I would also install an overflow tank so after it cools down you will not need to add water.When my
39 had a new block and new genuine Chevrolet radiator I am sure it would have done the same under that condition.
Gene Schneider
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The ambient temperature will make a difference but not much. After all, your thermostat will be closed until the temperature gets to 160 anyway. You could have had a 180 in there for all that it matters. Also, the amount of air going through the radiator fins is important even if it is already at 110 degrees. You may try using a truck fan when next operating under these or similar conditions. Also, turn on the heater at full blast. That will help some, too. I don't think our old cars were designed to withstand such hard conditions that parades sometimes put on them. Charlie 
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Thanks for the info. I did run the heater, it must have been 150 inside the car.
I will see if I can find a truck fan and give that a try. Maybe trailering on extreme heat days is the way to go!
Dave
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I installed a Master 85 fan, which is larger than a M.D. for prades. I could not see a difference.
Gene Schneider
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Judging from what I've read, radiator shrouds are not "stock', correct ?? (at least for our forum group )
If that is true, with the 216's low fan placement and close proximity to the radiator, has anyone tried to fabricate one ?? And if so, did it help or hinder the engine temps ?
Dave
old cars are meant to be driven !!
VCCA # 047832
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6v pusher fan(s) would be much easier to install plus they'd be behind the grill & easier to disguise. If I was bound and determined to drive slow in hot weather that's what I'd do. FWIW driving with the wind on a hot day can make your car run warmer than normal as well because there's less air going through the radiator.
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On my '39 it would run the coolest when driving straight into the wind. Side wind or tail wind and it would run 10 to 20 Deg. warmer in hot weather.
Gene Schneider
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Would the pusher fan be considered engine compartment for HPOCF? If so I am not certified on engine due to a rebuild and could add one. After the drive home on Sunday I think I will just stay out of the heat.
Thanks
Dave
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If I were to install one I would make it easy to remove and replace when necessary. It would mount in front of the core.
Gene Schneider
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On my '39 it would run the coolest when driving straight into the wind. Side wind or tail wind and it would run 10 to 20 Deg. warmer in hot weather. That's been my experience as well Gene.
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Since I have not experienced this, how does the human body cool enough in 110 deg weather? That must be really difficult.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
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Lot's of water, in the shade when ever possible. Community Chevrolet in Burbank, CA where the show was has a very nice new building with a large covered service drive which helped alot. They had barrels of free water which was appreciated by everyone. The judging was done early so we did not have too much time on the pavement which is hotter. We could have used some Canadian air!
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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I have a pusher fan in my car and it makes all the difference in the world. I have not had to use it very often, however, when I see the temp gauge start to go up I turn it on and you can see the temp gauge go back to normal.
Bill
1950 Plymouth Club Coupe
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Backyard Mechanic
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My 1940 was as well often at maximum. My solution was to clean the coolant circuit with some chemicals. After cleaning the system and refillig with filtered rain water, which is the best you may get, my overheating trouble is over.
Before I did reach the second red dot (shortly before boiling) easily, but it did never happen again after cleaning. The maximum I did reach after boiling is the first red dot, which is normal I guess.
Regards
Stefangermany
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At one time there was a great cooling system cleaner available. Most common versions were made by Dupont (silver container) or Prestone (yellow container). The cardboard like container contained a powder for cleaning and on one end the other end a power to neutralize the first powder which was an acid. About 20 years ago they were forced to change the formula to something less "dangerous" and the modern version is very weak.
I always caried a container in the trunk when we did long trips as one the the cars is the caravan would surely over heat. I still have a good supply on hand.
Gene Schneider
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Quoting from the AACA forum: The old-time classic was DuPont's heavy duty radiator cleaner, a two-part package with oxalic acid (which can chelate iron oxides), followed by rinsing and a sodium bicarbonate neutralizer. You can still buy these ingredients, oxalic from most hardware stores and bicarb from the supermarket. About 2 cups of oxalic acid into a radiator (with water, no antifreeze), drive around for an hour or two, then drain, flush a couple of times with water, and then use the neutralizer - perhaps 1/4 cup or so in an average 20-25 quart cooling system. If the coolant that is drained is dark brown like tea or coffee, it's working and perhaps a 2nd treatment might be tried. Citric acid would have a similar effect as oxalic Cheers, Dean
Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz old and ugly is beautiful!
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I drove it to work on Friday, 81 degrees outside, lots of stop lights, never got to the 180 mark. Long lights it would go up to about 170 then fall back to 160 when moving. It must have been the day. I did find some scientific studys on the effect of outside temp but would need Chippers help to understand them! Thanks for the help.
Dave
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Another approach you might try is to put a modern transmission cooler (aka little radiator) in one of the oil lines to cool the oil. Elsewhere on this site, someone mentioned that the engine oil is responsible for 25% of the engine cooling.
I guess instead of the tranny radiator, you could add an extra-long copper tube to the oil line and run it inside the chassis to cool the oil. The longer the extra tube the better.
Cheers, Dean
Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz old and ugly is beautiful!
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The oil does at leat 25% of the cooling but it cools areas that the radiator coolant does not reach such as the crankshaft, rods,and pistons.
Gene Schneider
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Good info, Chevgene.
Thanks, Dean
Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz old and ugly is beautiful!
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