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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 131
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 131 |
Everything I have done seems to indicate my 32 chevy radiator is just too clogged. I have one in another I will swap in to prove it is the radiator and not the engine. If it is the radiator, where or who do you suggest I go to, to get another original, or original looking one?
Norm
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863 |
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 44
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 44 |
I purchased a new radiator from Brass Works. Not cheap, but very high quality. Just bolt in.
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 4,374 Likes: 30
ChatMaster - 4,000
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ChatMaster - 4,000
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 4,374 Likes: 30 |
I agree with both of the above...
The Filling Station has some
and have heard nothing but good things from Brassworks, many get a MODERN style core for there radiator and are EXTREMELY happy with it !!
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk
Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932
The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 510
Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 510 |
If you were closer to Canada I would recommend Rice Radiator in Chatham Ontario. They do most of the work for R/M restoration. I went with an industrial 3 core cost was right around 500. They would need your tanks.
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 44
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 44 |
I did get the modern core from Brass Works. It works great. The car runs cooler than it ever did, even with the high temps and humidity we have in Louisiana this time of year.I don't show the car so the modern core was a good choice for me.
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 131
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 131 |
On a more modern radiator you can take the tanks off and poke a wire down the passages. Is the honeycomb construction such that this is not possible? I would have nothing to loose. Or, will "boiling" it out just loosen up all the solder in the core?
Norm
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863 |
On a honeycomb radiator you can "rod" out the center of the tubes but due to the configuration of the tubes you can not "rod" out the sides of the tubes if they are plugged. I had the original honeycomb radiator on my 1930 "rodded" out and then boiled out in an ultrasound tank but the radiator still heated up. Finally replaced it with a new honeycomb radiator from the Filling Station.   
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 131
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 131 |
Seems like the overheating problem is solved. More running in hot weather will prove it out. What I did was take the radiator off, lay it flat, fill it with water, flush it with forced air. Did this at least ten times from both ends. Stuff kept coming out including a couple more acorns! Then I did the same with the engine till it flowed clean. Pressure washed the honeycomb, outside which cleaned more outside blockage. All this opened up more leaks. Put it all back together, filled the system including stop leak. I still need to pressurize with air through the filler neck to drive the stop leak to the holes. Hopefully running it will help plug the leaks in time.
Thanks all, Norm
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
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Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,863 |
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
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