Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rating: 5
Page 2 of 6 1 2 3 4 5 6
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 406
Backyard Mechanic
Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 406
Besides the "normal" hand tools, you might consider an air compressor (preferably big enough to operate your blast cabinet), tap and die set to clean up threads on nuts and bolts, a vise to secure your parts while you work on them, jack stands, maybe an engine hoist. M006840 has good advice about starting with what you have, and when you can't get the job done because you don't have a tool, then see about buying what you need. Otherwise, you could have a lot of money invested up front on things you may be able to do without.

Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
Hawkeye Offline OP
ChatMaster - 1,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
Thanks Steve and leagl for the information. You are both correct in not over buying tools. I have very limited space to do a restoration and floor space is at a premium. I will probably rent an engine hoist and buy an engine stand to work on the engine. I plan on taking the car to a sand blaster to clean up the floor, frame and the firewall. Then take the car to my body shop guy to to do the majority of the body work. I think the body to frame mounts will have to be replaced due to rust. Should I remove them, raise the car up off the frame with some timbers, and let the sand blaster get to those paces to remove the rust? Or is there a better way? I do not have towing transportation, so anything I do will be a rental.

Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,472
Likes: 26
ChatMaster - 7,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 7,000
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,472
Likes: 26
That's probably a question best answered by your sand blaster and body shop and may depend on the extent of rust and the level of restoration you want. A body off restoration would be easiest for the blaster but more costly.


Steve D
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
Hawkeye Offline OP
ChatMaster - 1,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
Why would a body off restoration be more costly? What additional costs would be incurred?

Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
Hawkeye Offline OP
ChatMaster - 1,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
I realize that taking the body off the frame is more work, but I plan on doing most of that work myself. So what additional cost would I be looking at besides my time?

Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,472
Likes: 26
ChatMaster - 7,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 7,000
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,472
Likes: 26
If you remove the body yourself then you will need some way to handle it and probably new mounting pads and hardware.


Steve D
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,756
Likes: 62
ChatMaster - 15,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,756
Likes: 62
There may or may not be an additional cost for a frame off. If you do a complete body on restoration it actually may cost more. Let me try to explain. Restoring the underside of the body, gas lines, engine compartment if you don't take off the body can be really time consuming as access is difficult. You also don't get as complete a job as when you can access everything. If you use a rotisserie then access to the body can be a lot easier and you can get to everything. It is far easier to install the drive train, suspension, exhaust without that darn body in the way.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 406
Backyard Mechanic
Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 406
I don't know about the cost, but I totally agree with Chipper that restoring a car with the body on can be time consuming and difficult, and some areas of the body and frame are about impossible to access. I am working on a car now with the body on only because I am out of room in my garage. Never again. You stated that space was a premium for you but you also stated that you were going to take the car to a body shop, so if they do restorations they should be able to take the body off for you. I would stick to what you initially said about taking the body off to do the job right.

Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
Hawkeye Offline OP
ChatMaster - 1,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
My plan is to remove the body from the frame and get it to the sand blaster to clean up the underside (outside floor) and the firewall. Then take it to my body shop guy to start. This is where I am not sure which way to go. Should I have the frame blasted or should I try to clean up the frame on my own? How do I handle the front end suspension pieces as well as the rear axle and leaf springs? Wire brush and POR-15 maybe? I am not trying to end up with a 1000 point car, just preserve it from more rust and make it look presentable. Now with the frame only in my garage, I can replace the fuel line and all of the brake lines, take care of the gas tank and rebuild the front end a heck of a lot earier. Hey, I might just buy a white lab coat and work on the frame just like they show in the Chevrolet Repair Manuals. By the way, what is the correct color of black for the frame and floor? Or is the floor a different color?

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 549
Oil Can Mechanic
Offline
Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 549
Your going to want to scrap, wire brush, powerwasher, scrap, wire brush, powerwasher,,,,etc.

As the media blaster will just bounce off the thick gue of 50 years. I made a sand blast tent in my car port and huge the frame from the rafters, got hug in the Rv bay.

Having a tent allows you to reuse your media over and over again to a point. Cut the bottom out of a square kitty litter or soap bucket and attach fine window screen to the bottom with lath and screws on the side. That way you can sift out the crap and the small parts you blast. If you don't your blaster will get clogged.

Where the best air mask you can find!


"Frame Off" restoration, its a journey not a destination
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 9
ChatMaster - 1,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 9
Here is a great article for rebuilding your front end.

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/218134/


1946 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup Purchased 11/18/17 Sold 9/20
1948 Chevy Fleetmaster Coupe, Purchased 6/20/2010
1965 Chevy ll 350 Purchased Feb 2021. 3-speed Saginaw Hurst Floor Shifter 3.08 Rear End

2019 Ford Ranger Lariat Super Crew
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
Hawkeye Offline OP
ChatMaster - 1,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
WOW! This link to rebuilding the front end is excellent. Thanks to all that contributed advise.

Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
Hawkeye Offline OP
ChatMaster - 1,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
Well, I finally started. I have been busy taking apart my 1950 Belair. I have been bagging, tagging, taking photos and running out of room. Today was a notable day - the car was ready to be taken to the sandblaster. While it is at its temporary home, I hope to clean and paint the engine.

[Linked Image from i1311.photobucket.com]
I'm just waiting for my ride.

[Linked Image from i1311.photobucket.com]
Still waiting for my ride.

[Linked Image from i1311.photobucket.com]
Finally, my ride is here.

[Linked Image from i1311.photobucket.com]
On the road again (sorta) after 12 years.

Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,620
Likes: 5
ChatMaster - 3,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,620
Likes: 5
Your '50 is in much the same condition as my '51! It seems we are doing the same plan! Keep up the great work!


Those accustomed to the finest...find it in Chevrolet.
1953 Belair Convertible
1951 2dr Deluxe Sedan
2015 GMC SLE 4X4
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 20
Grease Monkey
Offline
Grease Monkey
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 20
I may be coming into this discussion a little late, but besides my wire wheel/bench grinder and air compressor, I have also gotten a lot of use out of a parts cleaner. It's a small rectangular enclosure with an internal pump for recirculating and spraying a jet of non-flammable solvent. It's black and putting it out in the sun warms the solvent up nicely. A 6.5 gallon tank is less than $50 from Harbor Freight.

You should have a beautiful and very desirable car when you get done. Best of luck with it!


Mike Ahlmann
Las Cruces, NM
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,801
Likes: 1
ChatMaster - 3,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,801
Likes: 1
I'm surprised to see a car, with so much trim still on it, including glass, going to the sandblaster.
I have NOT used a sandblaster, but it was my thought the body was stripped of everything, before going to the sandblaster.



1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,142
Likes: 3
ChatMaster - 2,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,142
Likes: 3
I came to your post a little late also. I did read that you are not looking to do a 1000 point car also then maybe take a step back and look at everything close. I have done four frame off restos (3 Chevy's and 1 Buick) and it is a lot more time and a lot more money. Do you have the space to store the body and the frame and still have a place to work?
Before you pull the body off make sure you line up everything (doors)and the gaps are perfect before you pull it off the frame. The glass is going to have to come out while it is one the frame.
If there is a local region of the VCCA or AACA join them both. It will be a great place for advice, possible another set of hands when needed or a special tool you need to borrow.
Do you have an idea how much you can afford to spend? That will dictate a lot.


John



1954 Belair Sport Coupe
1960 2 door Impala Hardtop 348/340HP 4spd
1962 2 door Impala Hardtop 409/409 4spd
1962 2 Door Biscayne Sedan 327/250 Auto
1977 Monza Mirage 305 4 Speed
1988 Celebrity Wagon
2018 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Diesel
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,620
Likes: 5
ChatMaster - 3,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,620
Likes: 5
Originally Posted by bobg1951chevy
I'm surprised to see a car, with so much trim still on it, including glass, going to the sandblaster.
I have NOT used a sandblaster, but it was my thought the body was stripped of everything, before going to the sandblaster.

Mine came off the frame and went to the blaster with the glass intact because the seals on the front and rear windows are almost perfect. It'll be masked when he blasts and paints it. I've heard that the reproduction window rubber is nowhere near as good as the original rubber, and to save the original stuff if it is good. All of the other trim came off of mine though...


Those accustomed to the finest...find it in Chevrolet.
1953 Belair Convertible
1951 2dr Deluxe Sedan
2015 GMC SLE 4X4
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
Hawkeye Offline OP
ChatMaster - 1,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
The bottom of the car (outside floor, axles and frame) and the firewall are going to be blasted only. The front belt moldings where the wiper transmissions exit the car were removed. That is where the blasting will stop - just below the front glass weatherstrip. Nothing on the body will be touched. I have NOS rear quarters, one new front fender and better doors that will be used. The only original to the car pieces that will remain are the hood, trunk lid and roof. I left the glass in place to keep as much sand out of the car as possible. Every hole in the firewall and floor were plugged with anything that would fit to keep the amount of sand inside to a minimum. The glass will be removed when the car returns as well as all the S/S trim. The body coming off the frame is going to happen at the body shop. I just do not have the room nor do I want to chance changing any allignment in the body. My body guy will cut out the six frame to body mounts, lift the body off the frame one side at a time so the frame and floor can be sandblasted and repainted. Any area that was not cleaned and painted will then be done. He will then replace the six mounts, replace any rubber body to frame pads and re-attached the body to the frame. After discussing body off and body on options, this is the most cost effective choice for me. The car will be just as solid and protected like it was brand new.

Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
ChatMaster - 6,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689
Likes: 21
Hawkeye,

Here is some sage advice. It comes from experience. Like in a 41 project.

a. Don't take any pictures. Those that do are wimps. Except for maybe Mike.

b. Do not use any zip-lock bags. Just toss the nut and bolts in a big jar. All together. The jar will get lost anyway.

c. Don't label anything. It's a waste of time. Thing generally fit where they're supposed to and won't where they're not supposed to. Read on.

d. First disassemble the whole car. Pile it up. Stir it some. Left then right.

e. Get a fork-lift. Load the whole mess up and take it to the scarp yard. It'll bring you 2-300 bucks.

The above is if you already have the car. If you don't then read on.

Take the money you were going to use for the project and add to it what ever you think you time is worth for the restoration, cost of parts and chroming, paint, aggravation, bruises, whisky, and cussin and buy one already done. One that will require minimal effort. Like John's 1950. Then you can just tinker with it and change things like the danged headlights.

You will be happy as a lark and will be forever grateful to me. Will too!

You're welcome and although you owe me, big time. I expect nothing.

Best,

Charlie computer




Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
Hawkeye Offline OP
ChatMaster - 1,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
This is where the car stands as of today. The outer floor, frame and front axle were sandblasted and painted chassis black. The firewall was also blasted and primed. I still have to remove all of the bolts, washers and aluminum plates I installed to keep sand out of the drivers compartment. By the way, it did not work - had a small beach inside when I got the car home. Removed the front backing plates and in the process of replacing them with 1953 plates. The 1953 front and rear axles were originally from Texas. I had to clean over 14 pounds of Texas undercoating off the front axle alone. The rear axle did not have as much undercoating as the front. It looks almost brand new and will replace the original 1950 rear axle after the car comes back from the body shop. The next step will be to remove the remaining S/S trim and all of the glass. After that, just have to wait for a dry day to get it to the body shop.

[Linked Image from i1311.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i1311.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i1311.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i1311.photobucket.com]
BEFORE

[Linked Image from i1311.photobucket.com]
AFTER

[Linked Image from i1311.photobucket.com]
14 POUNDS OF PRIME TEXAS REAL ESTATE IN A BOX

[Linked Image from i1311.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i1311.photobucket.com]
[Linked Image from i1311.photobucket.com]

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,699
Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,699
Likes: 141
Wow.
Just to be sure. You did install the king pin supports (the piece between the uppper and lower control arms) from the 1950 as they are different front the 1953-54....or is that the original front end?
Can't remember what we all talked about.

Notice you now have the larger diameter torque tube (new for 1951)

Last edited by Chev Nut; 11/20/14 10:38 PM.

Gene Schneider
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
Hawkeye Offline OP
ChatMaster - 1,000
OP Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,005
Likes: 5
Chevgene, the car still has the original front axle on it. The only thing I have done since this picture is remove the backing plates and test fit the plates from the 1953 axle. I am going with your advise and use all the '53 spacers and bolts. The steering knuckle support has not been changed - it is still the '50 part. I did compare the '50 and the '53 steering knuckle supports. The '53 looks just a bit longer than the '50. I have a pair of NOS steering knuckle supports #3687651(R) & 3687652(L) if I need them. When you say larger diameter torque tube, it will fit into my 1950 original set up like we talked about right?

Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,472
Likes: 26
ChatMaster - 7,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 7,000
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,472
Likes: 26
Why are you changing the front axle? Your R.F. body mount looks exactly like mine did-attacked by rust mites! When you blasted the front of the body did you just pull the wiring harness inside the body?


Steve D
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,801
Likes: 1
ChatMaster - 3,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,801
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by Chev Nut
Wow.
Just to be sure. You did install the king pin supports (the piece between the uppper and lower control arms) from the 1950 as they are different front the 1953-54....or is that the original front end?
Can't remember what we all talked about.

Notice you now have the larger diameter torque tube (new for 1951)

I was of the belief the supports were interchangeable, but by using the '53-'54 supports, they would lower the front an inch or so. Accurate or not ?



1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
Page 2 of 6 1 2 3 4 5 6

Link Copied to Clipboard
Support The VCCA!

Enjoy the forum? Become a VCCA member! The World's Best Chevrolet and GMC Club!


Member Photos
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
1964 Chevrolet Impala SS
by DreamChevy, February 17
My 1933 Chevy 2 Dr. Sedan
My 1933 Chevy 2 Dr. Sedan
by 1939Chevy1, November 24
Back on the road 79 years later
2 1927 Chevrolet Trucks
2 1927 Chevrolet Trucks
by 1927TRUCKS, June 7
Who's Online Now
2 members (Peter_Gariepy, 1 invisible), 72 guests, and 43 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Newest Members
NeilA, Jayhicks, Tomvanhouten, Dads29Chevy, Tractorman
18,308 Registered Users
Today's Birthdays
aristech, RalphL, tonysk
Forum Statistics
Forums58
Topics59,071
Posts429,069
Members18,308
Most Online1,133
Jan 22nd, 2020
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5