VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Starting a 1915/16 that's been stored a long time

I now understand what a "McLaughlin" is. Thanks for the forward.

Back to my question - does anyone have a diagram or instruction on which switches are which, on the 1916 dash?

I will tag here to try to continue this thread.

Ref: 1916 Baby Grand.

My gas tank has TWO lines running from it. The top line runs up the driver's side and goes into the carburetor. Obviously this is the main gas supply. (also, it has an electric fuel pump hidden back by the gas tank.)

Now -- here's the mystery. My gas tank has a SECOND line which comes out of the gas tank at about halfways up the tank. It runs up the passenger side. Today I traced it and it goes.... (are you ready for this?)... into the oil line!!!>!?!?#$?@!?!##

Can anybody give me a reason why this is there?

Wild guess - wonder if it was part of an oil dilution system to reduce oil viscosity in extremely cold conditions? This was used on some aircraft engines operating in very cold areas. Some fuel was mixed with the oil in the crankcase before shutting the engine down to thin the oil and make cranking easier on the next cold start. The fuel mixed in with in the oil would evaporate from the crankcase as the engine warmed up.

Frank.

it goes to the air pump on the dash hope this helps

Correct, it goes to the air pump on the dash which is used to pressurize the fuel tank which now forces fuel up to the carburetor.

Thanks Ray..

Yes the line comes up to the engine compartment and then connects to the pump. But it does so using a TEE which also goes to the oil lines.... at least that's what I think it does.

Here's a picture. The gas line is coming up from the bottom into the TEE fitting.

So.... what prevents oil from leaking back into the gas line?

Gotta get my books out and do some homework. There must be a logical reason.

Well, it wouldn't surprise me to find that "someone" re-engineered parts of this system.

While it does have an electric gas pump on it, that makes me a tad nervous since it would create even more vacuum inside the gas tank. So the dash pump shouldn't be needed at all.

Is that an oil pump on the side of engine in the above photo?

Could be a plunger type oil pump?

Shifting gears (figuratively)....

I'm ready to add some Neatsfoot oil to the clutch. After 9 screws removed, and a rod and cotter key, I'm still 3 or 5 screws from removing the upper floor board.

So, I took a break and crawled UNDER the car. Dang it. It appears that I can easily get to both clutch "holes" from below.

So my question now is - what's the easiest way to oil it? Squirt bottle? Some sort of spray thing-a-ma-jig? I ASSUME that all of you blokes religiously oil your cones?

Well... my wife remembered that I got a hypodermic needle from my dentist a few years ago that I never used. (He gave it to me withOUT a needle. I thought that I was going to use it to squirt glue up under my running board mats... but then I changed my mind.)

So, I looked and found it. Turns out that it works perfectly to "capture" a measured amount of Neatsfoot Oil, and then it fits perfectly into the two holes on the flywheel. So -- problem solved.

NEW ISSUE:
The gas linkage to the pedal sure comes close to the flywheel. Here are three photos showing that. It's a little unnerving to me, that the flywheel would be spinning so rapidly, so close, to the clevis. It's less than the thickness of my finger.

Thoughts?

As long as the gas linkage is not loose enough to get nearer the flywheel you should not be afraid. Check (when the engine is not running) that the space is enough (not touching) even when you "pull" the lever towards the teeth of the flywheel. I have only 10 mm space between the flexi hose and the flywheel on Solan, which should be enough.

And I think your finger is a little more than 10 mm, Bill???

I think that I'll replace the cotter key and put in a new one!!

Big News. After 12 or 14 years since it last ran, I got it started today!!!

I hope to post a video soon. (Also, I'll update more in the 6 v fuel pump thread )


ADDED-------
And here's the Video!!!!

Great video, Bill, congrats with first start.
Regarding the fuel system, I think it has been modified by someone. I assume an electric fuel pump has been added when the hand pump operated pressure system failed. The T-Connection to the oil line is a mystery. I'll check the connections on my H-4. The component on the pressure line below the T could be the non-return valve that keeps tank pressurised after applying the hand pump.

Einar

Great start, Bill. It sounds like a finely tuned sewing machine!

In my H-4 the valve pushrod operated pump behind the distributor is disconnected from the air pump line. I took the pump out to try to find out how it worked. The piston was also removed by somebody at some time, and its only function now is being pushrod guide. Could this pump be an air pump installed with the purpose to maintain the overpressure in the gas tank, eliminating the need to apply the hand pump when driving?

Einar

Yes, it appears that it's an air pump. I don't have a reason to tear it apart right now - so the "mystery" will have to continue. :-)

All I know is that the car seems to run good now with NO electric fuel pump. Using the dash pump to get gas to the carb seems to work just fine.

I don't know if I will get enough time before winter to give it a full test.