Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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We are going to shift away from some emails and continue this discussion here for everyone to see.

QUESTION: What's the best way to prepare my 4-cylinder car in order to start it after it's been stored for 10 years?

--Bill

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Dan O'Day offered these suggestions:

Does the engine turn with the crank? I'm assuming the engine isn't "stuck".

I would recommend squirting some oil in the spark plug holes and turning over the engine with the hand crank with the plugs out. Just to lube the rings and coat the cylinder walls.

Also before you try to start it, I recommend you prime the oil pump. These cars have a plunger pump and can be tricky to prime if they've been sitting a long time. First try cranking and cranking by hand (spark plugs out) and have someone watching the oil site gauge on the dash. This might do it. If not oiling after a minute of hand cranking, then "break the oil lines at the distribution/ relief fitting and pump oil into the line to the pump. Use lots of oil squirting under pressure with your Eagle hand pump. Try cranking once you've filled the line with oil. You may have to break the line at the oil pan that feeds the pump also. Once you have oil flowing from hand cranking, seal it all back up.

Note- my car has the original fittings which are not the more recent "compression" fittings that have the brass ferrule. The original ones take fiber packing. I used oakum to reseal all my fittings.

You might want to have a look at you carburetor float. They are real easy to access. Put it in a pail of gas (submerged) for several hours. Then take it out and shake it. See if any gas leaked inside. When you get ready to start it, you can "tickle" the float rod until gas comes out. Then try starting.

One more thing- get some neetsfoot oil for the clutch. Best to buy another Eagle hand oiler just for neetsfoot oil. There are two holes in the cone clutch (pressure plate if you will) rotate the engine until one hole is at the top. Squirt in some neetsfoot oil. A day later, rotate the engine to have the other hole at the top and squirt in some more oil. Watch out when it starts- it will throw a line of oil across the garage floor. But the idea is to oil that leather so that it isn't dry and self destructs when you go to use the clutch. Also, fill up the throwout bearing with (motor) oil. It takes a lot. This is a big chunk of brass that has wooden plugs in it. Need to swell that wood up so it holds oil. I understand the later cars have a tube that leads up from the throwout bearing to the engine compartment. On mine, I have to pull the floorboard.

Great fun!

Regards,
Dan

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What a great To-Do list. Thanks Dan.

Here's what I accomplished today.

1) Removed spark plugs... again. Added oil to each cylinder.

2) Turned the engine over by hand. It turns easily. Saw oil show up in the dash oil gauge!!!

3*) Purchased some neatsfoot oil. But for the life of me I can't figure where to add it. I don't see any holes.

4) Scraped paint off the flywheel. Found the full engine number - 20715. It matches the brace!!

5*) Fill the throwout bearing? Remove the floorboard? Wow.. .that's a lot of work. I need to remove screws and stuff. Is that the only way?

6) The engine turns easily. I was able to turn the flywheel by hand when I was looking for the numbers.

7) Lastly and the worst. I checked and found about 3" of gas in the tank. But when I used a stick to measure it, It would rub a BUNCH of stuff on the bottom of the tank. It felt like sand and/or rust. And it felt like 1/4" thick. So -- this now FORCES me to lower the gas tank before I go any further.

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Bill,

That's excellent that you found the SN and it matches the frame number!

Very good that you got oil to show in the sight gauge with hand cranking.

I think you should pull the floorboards and have a look at the throwout bearing. This way you can take photos if need be. With the floorboards out, you should see the 2 holes in the cone clutch for the neatsfoot oil. Maybe yours is a different design?

Regarding the gas tank, That's too bad. But better to pull and clean it out than to gum things up. Seems like you just did this with the '36. Oh well, Deja Vu allover again wink

I suggest you bypass the gas tank and do like I did in my video with a jug of gas suspended from the cowl. That way, you stay on track with starting.

Regards,
Dan

[Linked Image from 1931chevrolet.com]

Last edited by Bill Barker; 05/12/13 01:41 PM. Reason: Photo added
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Hello Bill:

I agree with Dan. In my earlier days, I would get a 1 pound metal coffee can, drink the coffee and then solder a fuel line to the bottom of the coffee can. I would then gravity run the gas into the fuel pump. I even have run the car up and down the street for several blocks to debug the engine.

dtm


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The more I dig, the more I find. bana2

There is nothing coming out of the back of my Speedometer Gauge. I found the following gear on the right front wheel. Is that suppose to be connected to the other end?

[Linked Image from 1931chevrolet.com]

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I thought all speedometers of that era were driven from the left front wheel. Anyway, that is the drive wheel that engages a 'universal' attached to the the speedometer cable that goes to the dash unit. Sounds like you are missing a few parts which are available, however hold on to the vault when you find them.


Agrin devil


RAY


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Bill,

That is indeed, the drive wheel that drives your speedometer. The earlier cars had them on the left wheel (my 1914 does) and at some point they moved them to the right front wheel. You probably have the Stewart speedometer- that's good! The earlier cars used a Corbin speedometer and they are $$$. I believe your Stewart set-up is similar to what the Model Ts use and they reproduce all the parts. The "universal" that Antique Mechanic referred to is called a "swivel" and it attaches via brackets to a pinion gear that meshes with your wheel gear. There's different ratios for the swivels and various pitches and tooth counts for the pinion gears. Look at the Model T parts suppliers like Snyder's or Langs. Maybe call a good speedometer guy and have all your information- tire size, tooth count on the wheel gear, photo of your speedometer etc. You'll need the pinion gear, swivel, brackets and cable housing with modern cable (the original ones used a linked drive chain inside the housing).

Regards,
Dan




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Thanks Dan. I'll look for this. We have a big swap meet this weekend too.. so maybe I can find it there too. Hopefully the Ford stuff will fit.

Ray -- I confirmed (using Red Right Returning) and it was on the right front wheel. :-)

[Linked Image from 1931chevrolet.com]

--Bill

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Another question - somewhat related to the other ones...

What is the long pointed thing on my right front frame? Does it have anything to do with the speedometer?

[Linked Image from 1931chevrolet.com]

--Bill

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Bill,

That looks like a stud that the bracket to hold the swivel would mount to. That's good!

Regards,
Dan


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Dan is right. That is the mounting point for the swivel.


Agrin devil


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1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

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G'day Bill
A little overdue, but welcome to the H world, great bunch of blokes and cars. I haven't got a speedo on my 15 Amesbury (ex CA) but do have the drive, and it's on the left side.
We have 6 running H's down here in Aus. and about 10 unrestored ones. Only one of those is Aus delvered, a very long resto of a 14 RM roadster.
We have Aus advertisng from 1914 with at least 5 states offering them by 1915.
Hope you enjoy the 'ride'
Chris

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Okay, good news... No! Actully, it's Friggin' GREAT news. I went back to the Seller's garage today and found the entire speedometer cable and the "transmission"!!!!!!!!!!! Wow.. what a find. I can't wait to install it.

--Bill

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It sounds like you found the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.

dtm


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Bill was lucky enough to win without buying a ticket! There are some precious moments such as the mentioned in our hobby.
The persons involved will never forget them.
Carry on, Bill!

Here are some pictures from Solan:
http://s889.photobucket.com/user/solan1916/library/solan%20speedometer?sort=3&page=1

A part just came on at eBay, but I am not sure if it will fit your car, Bill. It does not fit Solan, but luckily he has what's needed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Chevy-1...ries&hash=item58a0754f6c&vxp=mtr

Agrin

Last edited by Solan; 05/27/13 09:14 AM.

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I assume he charged extra for these parts, in typical free enterprise fashion! Hope you had a good look around while you were there, never know when something else will be found missing.

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A picture of my car yesterday with my two grandkids enjoying it.

[Linked Image from 1931chevrolet.com]

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Looking really nice, and the car too. Kids can be deceiving.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Well, I got a State Registration and License Plates today. I won't go into details here, but I found that the less you tell them, the easier it is. Now I have a 3 year wait for the Title to be issued. But the good news is that it will match the Engine VIN and have the correct Year on it.
And I got the "Full" license plate which entitles me to drive it ANYWHERE.... even on the FREEWAY!!! carbana

Time for a liquid refreshment reward. beermugs

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Awesome...

I learned in dealing with leagalities, only answer and supply what they ask for, when they ask for it. Start with the bare minimum, and go from there.

But always a slow and tedious process !!


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I'm feeling pretty good now that I have license plates on the car. Just wish that I could drive it.

Took the gas tank to a local guy who is fixing it. Boy did it have a lot of rust in it... one piece that came out was the size of a 50 cent piece. Hopefully I'll get it back this week.

Next problem is trying to figure out how to start the car. There are 5 switches on the dash but none are labeled. Does anyone have an Owner's Manual which describes which switches do what? I'm going to start tracing wires later this week.

--Bill

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Can you find McLaughlin or Canadian Buicks/ Chevrolet prior to fisher body?


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Sorry. I don't understand your question. Is McLaughlin a make of car?

--Bill

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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/McLaughlin_automobile

Bill... I fear this thread is about to go off topic.


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