VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Steps to startup a 1941 216 rebuilt engine

It looks like I may get my rebuilt engine back on Monday, a year after I brought it in for a complete rebuild. I will want to restart it in the next month so need help at doing an advance search for the suggested steps I need to follow, so any good search terms are appreciated, magazine articles written on the topic, or web sites to visit. The folks at Carquest will have good suggestions but I am also looking for other suggestions specific to the 216.

Here are suggestions I have already received from them.

1) Don't use a thermostat for awhile to eliminate the chance of bubbles in the cooling system. I don't know why this is a problem?

2) Use a break in oil high in Zinc content to help protect the cam from wear.

3) Make sure the timing is right.

4) Have gas already in the carb. A lot was mentioned about minimizing engine cranking which could cause excessive cam wear.

5) I have a very knowledgeable friend who will be there to help.

6) Found an article doing a Yahoo Search using the topic "Starting up a rebuilt engine" http://www.348-409.com/fireup.html One of the first things it said was, "Starting an engine for the first time is a make or break deal for the camshaft. (unless your using a roller cam-these do not require the usual break the way the flat tappet type do) If done correctly, your engine will provide years of service. If done incorrectly, you can do major damage within minutes! It's the first 5 minutes of running time that can wipe out a new cam. The other 15 minutes is just insurance. If I haven't scared you away yet, continue on as I list all the do's and dont's to help you avoid such a disaster."


All suggestions are appreciated, Thanks, Mike

oh my, if it's been sitting around for a year after assembly you may be in trouble. The assembly lube may not do it's job after that long. I rush to get one started after a rebuild so not to have any dry parts. some suggest trying to get engine oil through the engine prior to start but I have never figured out how to do it. GOOD LUCK

Just a quick thought or two.

It is completely necessary to purge the oil system. Remove the distributor and find a round piece of metal that will fit in the jaws of your drill. Flatten the end of the metal so it will engage the oil pump when inserted into it. Run the drill and watch the oil gauge. When you have pressure indicated run it for several more minutes to insure the oil has had a chance to circulate completely.

This may have been dune at the rebuilders, but you need to check. Ask if they placed a "Mechanics Block" that looks like a piece of charcoal, but is much lighter, in the water cavity of either the block or head. This block will dissolve and find any lacy spots in both the head and block. If they did not, ask for one and install it yourself.

Keep us posted, and good luck,

Starting a new rebuild doesn't have to be a difficult process.

a. Put the thermostat in ahead of time. I recommend 180 or 190 degrees. Rings trying to seat will cause the temperature to climb above either anyway. So the thermostat will open wide. More important, make sure the radiator is in good condition and when the thermostat opens and the trapped air escapes, be ready to give the system the little more 50/50 (or water). ( At least back flush the radiator it even if you know it is OK. You can do this with your air hose and a garden hose.)

b. Dowse the valve train with oil. Use Marvel Mystery or 10, 20, 30 or 10w-30. Your call. I use Marvel Mystery oil. Make sure it runs down into the holes for the push rods and throughly lubes the valve rockers and shafts.

c. Use a 12 volt battery to spin the engine good with the spark plugs out. This will get the oil a-going.

d. Adjust the timing statically and adjust the rockers statically also. A thousands or so on the loose side wont hurt. You can tweak them later.

e. Pour a little raw gas or spray starting fuel in the carb and fire it up. Make sure you're outside and the fire department is standing by. Just kidding. A good fire extinguisher, however, is always recommended. No matter what.

Using the above method is sound and will not cause any significant issues later on. Trust me. (As the gangster's girlfriend said when she visited him in jail: "You know I love you. You can trust me completely. You know for sure that I will be waiting for you when you get out in forty years. I promise. So... where did you hide the money?")

While spinning the oil pump may be a good idea, it is not critical. When it fires up the oil will be there in a heartbeat anyway. Until then, the dowse method will suffice and rebuilders lubriplate(sp) will protect the journals until the oil gets there. Nothing is going to weld together or get damaged that quickly. Forget the ZZDP, you don't need it. A waste of time and money. You don't need any lighter oil in the crankcase other than regular old 10w-30.

The difference in the long run of spinning up the oil pump, using ZZDP, no thermostat, and all the other stuff can be measured years later in feet, not miles, down the road. Nothing more. As Ray indicated, I think mechanics block may be okay.

Don't "over think" or worry over this issue. Those old engines are tough.

Now you're going to get a lot of advice starting off with, "Charlie, is nuts" or words to that effect. Well, that's true enough, so listen to whoever you want to and good luck with it. Either way, you'll never know the difference.

Charlie

If the engine has a new camshaft use a cam break-in lube for sure or ZDDP which is the same thing. If it were my engine I would break it in on 5W-30. Chevrolet used #10 when new as the "thinnest" oil possible is the best. There was no 5W-30 back then.
Would install a 160 thermostat and run with that .
prefer to start with clear water in the cooling system. Better if there is a leak. Safer if it gets into the oil.
Donot idle the engine. Run for about 15 minutes at about 1200-1400 RPM. Stop and let cool after 15 minutes and then repeat.
Squirt some motor oil into the throat of the carb. in the beginning to get some cylinder wall lubrication. The reat of the oiled parts will "get oil" in about 10 seconds if a "thin" oil is used.
Its ot that big of a deal. Years ago the mechanicsdid a lot less than that after an overhual or installing a new engine and had good results.