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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 31
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 31 |
My '46 Chev, with restored engine, was running like crap while at Flint. When I would accelerate the engine would sound like it was coming apart - with considerable valve noise. Thinking I had sticking valves, I tried the solvent trick to no avail so finally pulled the head when we got home. Only thing engine shop could find wrong was the oil deflectors "hats" on the end of the valve stems were acting like hydraulic lifters - so they machined a flat on the side of the stem to help release the oil/air. This fix didn't really didn't help much. The engine idles smooth, after adjusting the carb float (thats another story), although you can hear random ticking now and then. Question: Is there another form of oil deflector, i.e., rubber boot over the valve guides or o-rings on the stem, that I could use to eliminate the metal "hat" deflectors? I had another '46 back in the late '70's and early '80's that had a whisper quite engine. I can't remember if it had the metal "hats" or not.
Thanks in advance. Alan
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1 |
Welcome to Chevy Chat II. You have come to the right place for help on your Chevrolet. Hang around I think you will like us. I don't like the caps and don't use them. The rubber "O" rings do the job. It is wise to have the valves loose, but they do not have to be so loose that they "clatter". Warm the engine up real good and make the correct specified adjustments and it should reduce a lot of the noise. Error in the direction of too loose. Use of a vacuum gauge really helps. Let us know how this plays out.
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,700 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,700 Likes: 141 |
Years back at the dealership the caps were refered to as "rattlle caps". By the first valve job the mechanics would throw them away. The 1946 valve stems have a single grove for the keepers and can not use an O ring....that came along in 1948. I used a plastic umbrella on my 1934 and 1939. They sit under the valve spring retaining cap, slip onto the stem, and prevent excessive amounts of oil from running down the guide. The umbrellas were from a 1980 Ford with the 302 8 Cyl. engine. There were also some used in the '90's on small block
Chevrolet intake valves.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 31
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 31 |
Thanks for the responses to my problem. Subsequent to my orininal post, I was looking through the on line catalog of Summit Racing and found some rubber caps that fit over the valve guides for the 216 engine. The disadvantage of these are that machining of the guide is required. Something I don't want to do as I don't want to pull the head again. The plastic things that Chev Nut suggests sounds like the best option as I assume that I can install by holding the valves up with air. Right? We won't tell anybody that a Ford item is going into a Chev!! Thanks again, Alan
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,700 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,700 Likes: 141 |
Alan, Yes, it will require filling the cylinders with air . The guides may also be too tight. There should be .002" to .003" of wobble of the stem in the guide. Gene
Gene Schneider
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