Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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#232123 01/25/12 06:53 PM
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Weather permitting, I plan on starting to do some more work underneath the 41 tomorrow. After installing a new master cylinder (if I can ever get the pedal lock key removed so I can take the old one out) I plan to do some spray paining with black semi-gloss. Anyway, I think I understand the parts that do not get paint but check me out and let me know if I'm about to err in some way. My mind tells me that the following parts do NOT get paint: monkey

a. Master cylinder
b. Brake lines
c. Fuel lines
d. Spring hangers (from frame brackets down)
e. Transmission
f. U-joint (sleeve and bell or any parts from torque tube forward to bell housing)
g. Vacuum assembly (how about the bracket and breather to frame?)
h. rear springs and metal covers
i. Gas tank
j. Steering sector (not sure about this one)
k. Stabilizer links and bolts
l. Gear shift links (not sure about this, either)
m. Emergency (parking brake) cables

The above is about I can think of that doesn't get either semi-gloss black or engine paint.

Input will be greatly appreciated. Agrin
Charlie computer


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Green would look nice..... wave wave wave wave wave
imsorry

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Hi Charlie, Your looking at the perfect key puller. The key is threaded so using a tap from a Tap and Die Set thread it in then rock it back and forth until it is loose enough to pull out. The tap size is 12-24. This also works well with a threaded bolt of that tap size. Good luck, Mike

P.S. A little penetrating oil also works well, if the key has not been lubricated in awhile.
[Linked Image from inlinethumb02.webshots.com]

Last edited by Mike Buller; 01/25/12 11:12 PM.

Mike 41 Chevy
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Mike,
That is a good idea. I have stuck a metal screw in the end of it and got a good grip but it won't budge. I was thinking that I could use a proper bolt size (12-24 as you pointed out) and allow it to go all the way through (assuming it is threaded all the way through) and hit the backside of the housing and force the key out. I haven't tried that yet.

I have oiled it with WD-40, and "Blaster "but it seems to have become stuck pretty tight.

If nothing else works there is always the hack saw and cutting torch.
Thanks for your help, I'll try your suggestion next.
Charlie computer

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Hi Charlie, I got another solution? Buy replacement parts from me!!! Good luck, Mike


Mike 41 Chevy
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Charley, I used a thick fender washer and a 12-24 1" hex bolt to make a small puller to pull the key out. Make sure that there is no pressure on the clutch and brake arm as they can bind the key. "Rust Buster" and a small plastic hammer may also be needed. Luck!!


Ken's 1940 Special Deluxe Sedan
1970 Cadillac Hearse
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Thanks, Mike and Ken,

I didn't get out to the garage today in order to try getting it out again. It was much too cold. It was only 71 degrees here today and only partly sunny. I ain't gonna suffer none to get this job done. I may have to wait for the spring equinox before suitable NC weather returns. I know you all agree with me that handling cold metal is the pits. snoman
Charlie computer

Mike: While you sure are a good, honest guy for parts and careful shipping, I have two NOS master cylinders, so I'm good in that department. In the future, some other need may come up, though. Agrin

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Originally Posted by 41specialdeluxe
Thanks, Mike and Ken,

I didn't get out to the garage today in order to try getting it out again. It was much too cold. It was only 71 degrees here today and only partly sunny. I ain't gonna suffer none to get this job done. I may have to wait for the spring equinox before suitable NC weather returns. I know you all agree with me that handling cold metal is the pits. snoman
Charlie computer

Mike: While you sure are a good, honest guy for parts and careful shipping, I have two NOS master cylinders, so I'm good in that department. In the future, some other need may come up, though. Agrin

No doubt there is a lot of "HOT AIR" in North Carolina... But I am basking in the sun here in South Cincinnati....ED


I was only wrong one time in my life so far. But that time I was right, and only thought I was wrong....ED
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Originally Posted by Mike Buller
Hi Charlie, Your looking at the perfect key puller. The key is threaded so using a tap from a Tap and Die Set thread it in then rock it back and forth until it is loose enough to pull out. The tap size is 12-24. This also works well with a threaded bolt of that tap size. Good luck, Mike

P.S. A little penetrating oil also works well, if the key has not been lubricated in awhile.
[Linked Image from inlinethumb02.webshots.com]

The tap is a good idea when not excessive force has to be used.
We have to remember that taps are easy to brake off and when that happens its almost impossibly to remove. stressed To the contrary a broken bolt is lots easier to drill out
chevy
Jianis


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