VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Throwout Bearing woes...

I am terribly confused as to the correct throw-out bearing set-up for my 1926 Superior Roadster. I have not been successful at posting pictures in the past, but I will attempt again. In words, here is the problem: I have attempted to purchase a replacement carbon throw-out bearing, but all received have the wrong inside diameter. Upon talking with many people, I have learned that there are several different styles used. My car came with a bearing that slips on the transmission shaft, thus keeping it concentric and aligned with the throw-out sleeve. It has a 1.172 I.D. The replacement bearing has a 1.500 I.D., and would float on the shaft. Here is the kicker: my throw-out collar does NOT have a flange or split clam, it is simply a bearing face on the arm. I have attempted to attach pictures of this situation. I was told that the collar should have a split clamp, however, if that is the case, there is no way it will align with the pocket on the sleeve, the sleeve would have to be without a flange, as the bearing only has 10 thousands clearance . Good news, all bearing have the same O.D., so I’ve got that going for me. Question, which collar-sleeve combination is correct? See pictures


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Use the bottom arm as pictured with the clamp and the new bearing and you will be ready to go. The size of the center hole is not that important. Your new bearing should have a curved face and you should have received instructions with it on how it is to be mounted.

Ray,

The new bearing has sharp edges, as see in the second group of pics, on the right. But what I’m hearing is that the clamp is correct. I didn’t receive any instructions with the new bearing, but I can place a radius on the lead-in edge. Do you have instructions you can post? Should the sleeve have a flange? And last, where the heck did the unit come from that is on the car? It is properly marked as GM

PS Thanks!

The parts shown are essentially the opposite of what I have seen on other Chevys. The bottom arm photo is what I am familiar with. It mates with a smooth faced four slotted part (sleeve) that connects to the pressure plate arms.

In your case it looks like the carbon is pressed into the slotted part (sleeve) and rides on the smooth throwout plate on the clutch arm. It should work by fitting the carbon into the sleeve. The id difference should not be a problem as both the arm and sleeve have limited up & down movement.

Either type would work but each requires the correct parts to function. Looks like you need to order part number AF-63 or maybe part number CV-102 (modern replacement) from the Filling Station or another part supplier.

Chipper is correct and caught the wrong clutch througout bearing sleeve. The sleeve must be smooth on the mating surface without the ridge. Get the proper sleeve and you will be good to go.

I totally agree with the theory of operation, the sleeve needs to be flat and the bearing needs to be clamped into the collar. I am amassed that I have a totally custom set-up, not because it works, but rather, because it appears OEM in every sense. Is it likely that I have an early model Chevy clutch set-up? (490 perhaps)?

I have some of this Throwout Sleeve .
The 25-26 repair manual show this sleeve.

The split collar come in 1927

Wow, that is exactly what I have, a cup on the sleeve, and no clamp on the collar. I be darned!

If you get enough bodies involved you will eventually ferret out the correct answer.

This is why I keep coming back, great source of historical information!

Several of us learned something new today.