VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1949-1954 Running hotter than "normal"

Chipper and Gene,
I'll give it a shot. Those are pretty detailed instructions. No excuses. Thanks so much.
Dean

Dean,

You won't mess up anything if you follow the directions as written above. Most important, as stated, don't crank engine with distributor out. You'll do just fine. Let us know how it runs when surgery is over.

Bob

it can be intimidating the first time but you have to do it if you hope to earn your Distributor Merit Badge. at least the 6 cylinder is easily accessible to align the oil pump. unlike the V8s. there is an old indian trick if you have difficulty with the oil pump.

Sign me up! Got 'er done today after work. Zero problems thanks to the tips from you all. Popped right back in. I couldn't believe it. Fired right up (believe me I had more marks on that thing than I needed to get it back like it came out)went for a spin around the 'hood and all was well. Felt real responsive in all gears and I didn't have to run with the choke partly out like I have had to lately. I run it pretty advanced per Gene's theory, I'll drive it a little before I play with the timing.
The only itty-bitty issues were: the dist. seems to bind a little. I turned the round oiler a couple turns, maybe I'll loosen up the little screw and nut that connect the vacuum
unit to the dist. The other was the new unit had a pin-type thing on the end. I drilled it out and used the old nut and screw.
Thanks again to all
Dean

There is no greater satisfaction than the satisfaction of a job well done.

Glad we could help. Soon you will be giving advise to the newbies.

That is good news, a job well done!

Dean, on page 12-35 of the manual I have (the same one that is online, is Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual, 1948 - 1953 Models) is a discussion of headlights not the vacuum advance. Which manual are you referring to.

Lee

Lee
Sorry I didn't see your question until just now. Here is the page from the online manual:
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/12electrical/12_35.HTM
Actually just the first paragraph applies to removal. The rotor will turn a little (1/4 turn or so)as you remove the dist. and if nothing changes it will move back the other way going back in. While it's out you can look down inside there and see the oil pump notch that the dist. fits into. If it doesn't pop right down flat agin it's not back in that groove.
It really was very easy to do. The new advance came with a T-shaped rivet which I drilled out and used the old screw and nut to connect.
Dean

Thank you Dean. My new vacuum unit came with the rivit which I ground off and punched out, used the old screw et cetera.

I couldn't get the distributor back in the way it came out so I had to shift the spark plug wires down one hole.

Thanks,

Lee

Lee-
Make sure you've got oil pressure!It should go right back in just the same as it came out. I think if it's not all the way in it will run but your oil pump will not be engaged.
Did the swap solve your problem? How's it running?
Dean

Thank you for your note, Dean. I did make sure that the distributor went in all the way, but I will checkthe oil pressure. I am still having the rough running problem even after replacing the vacuum advance (and the entire ignition system)and having the manifolds (intake and exhaust) milled to flatness. I couldn't get the intake manifold apart from the exhaust manifold and was afraid to over-twist the rusted bolts because I didn't want to have to drill it. I ordered a new set of headers from Filling Station. I will try to get the old one apart so the intake and exhaust ports can be adjusted individually and if I break off the bolts then I have a new one coming....

I was surprised about all the agony about getting the distributor back in correctly, because if it goes in all they way, all you have to do is move the spark plug wires around a hole or two in the distributor to get it timed right.

But I will check the oil pressure before I take it apart again.

Lee

P.S. Even after the manifolds were milled, the ether test indicates there is still a leak and I can see that the intake ports sit lower than the exhaust ones, which is probably why they're leaking.

Lee

Lee
The first time I did mine it slid back exactly where it was and I didn't have to move any wires around. It ran better just because the advance was working. If you are running real rough you might want to start from scratch on #1 TDC and go from there. Time it with the ball just for a reference point. Per Chevgene's suggestion these run lots better with way more than standard factory advance specs. Good luck. (But the headers are cool anyway)
Dean

Thanks, Dean, I did kinda start over again.... checking every little thing. I can make it run with no miss at all by timing close to the ball on the flywheel and pull the choke out a little. But, I don't know what the gas mileage is this time around. Seems like it was peppier (and more rough idling) when I had the timing advanced a lot.

When the new manifold gets here on Saturday, I will put it in and hopefully that will solve any leaking manifold issues.

Anyone here reading this thread... do you use any sealant with the manifold gasket? I've used it for years on tractors....

Lee

I don't use any sealant, just good fresh gaskets. Or even reuse gaskets if they still look good. Pay particular attention to alignment of runners.

Sounds good Lee. And you've got oil pressure, right?

Dean

No sealant is needed.

do you have the alignment rings installed between the manifold and head?

Thanks, Don. I didn't know there were any alignment rings between the manifold and head. So, I guess the answer is "no".

There were no alignment rings on the manifold when I got the truck!

Lee

I know this is a cold (no pun intended) subject now and for the most part you got very good advice, especially from Chevgene. When anyone else has this problem (rusty block) I suggest that you separate the upper and lower hoses. Also, remove the thermostat. Arrange for water exiting the engine to go overboard. Then take out the block petcock and while filling the block at the thermostat housing and continue to fill it (just enough to keep it full except for blow out) run your air compressor up to around 180 lb pressure and put the air blow nozzle up against the petcock hole. Keep blowing is out until you get a good steady stream out the petcock hole. Now tie a rag around the radiator lower outlet (attach the bottom hose and clamp as the lower end if this makes it easier) and blow out the radiator as well. Reinstall the hoses and thermostat. The reverse flush (for the radiator especially) will only blow out enough to let the pressure pass. It will not clear out all the flues. If everything else is okay and you still have problems, then you may have to have the radiator boiled and rodded. If the radiator shop detects ninor pin-point leaks on test (about 10-15 lb pressure depending on whether a pressure radiator cap is used) then install it and put a little powdered "soder-seal or similar product in the radiator. Water pumps don't usually fail to pump unless the impeller is loose on the shaft. When they fail it is usually manifest by a leaking one. Best, Charlie

I don't know what I was thinking. Forget the 180 pressure in my previous comment. 60-80 lbs should be sufficient for a good back-flush. Best, Charlie

If you use too much pressure on the radiator you can destroy it. You can use your hand around the air nozzle at bottom outlet to control the pressure applied. It is hard to hold much over 10-15 psig with just your hand. That is plenty to blow out the radiator without harming it too much.

"Running hotter than normal" can be so many different things... head gasket leaking exhaust into the cooling system, radiator, water pump, that liquid engine overhaul stuff for stopping leaks, thermostat,too much antifreeze and not enough water, (some people claim retarded timing can do it, but I've never seen that), et cetera and it can come back once it's fixed when more goobers from the engine block water jacket start to circulate.

I really like the idea of putting a fine screen at the radiator inflow port (top radiator hose) to catch goobers from getting into the radiator. Particularly just after a restoration so one can check the screen every so often until nothing starts showing up. I highly recommend putting a screen in the upper radiator hose where it attaches to the radiator. It won't leak or at least mine don't. And it does catch crap that ordinarily would go into the radiator.

Lee

The main problem with a screen or filter in the upper radiator hose is when it catches so much stuff to block or reduce the coolant flow. So if you do install one be sure to check it fairly often when first installed so you know you always have a good coolant flow.