VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 1938 Fuel Tank

I finally yanked the tank from my 1938 Business Coupe today.

I had been fearing this after reading all the horror stories about rust, black goo, pin holes and various colors of snot.

My tank is in incredible shape. Not a hint of rust that I could see, no dirt or gunk inside, just shiny galvanized colored metal in and out. Sending unit is nice and clean. The only problem is that there is a large metal baffle bouncing loudly around inside. It looks to be about 6" tall and 15" long and you can see where the solder broke loose that was holding it. I think the noise would drive me nuts and maybe damage the sender...

This tank could easily be put into service with just a quick cleaning so I'm wondering if there is a way to "fasten" this baffle so it can't rattle without cutting the tank open?

Would there be an epoxy substance that could stick it in place? I suppose I could get a slit cut in the top of the tank and then remove the baffle or have a repair shop tack weld it to the bottom of the tank right below the sender opening.

I'd prefer having the baffle do it's intended job so maybe I'm stuck cutting a fist sized hole in the top so that the baffle can be tacked back in place? I really hate having to violate a good tank but might be best to make sure it's 100% clean inside.

Any creative ideas?

I have used epoxy to repair clean holes in the bottom of tanks. Not sure how it would glue two pieces toether though.

Tim
The only way I can see to solve your problem is to cut a hole in the top of the tank and resolder the baffle in its place.
Leaving it floating loose has limited possibility of damage while there is a reasonable amount of fuel in the tank.
I dont think there is an epoxy that will be successful long enough to get the tank back in the car. Dont use a spark producing or electric heated method inside the tank whatever you do.
Tony

What a conundrum Tim. If I was faced with the same issue I think I'd try to stick it down before cutting it up. Is the whole baffle loose? It's three sided in mine, shaped in a U with the side of the tank making the fourth side of the box. The key to getting any adhesive to stick is to make sure the surface is clean. It might help to put a gallon of lacquer thinner in, slosh it around some on the bottom of the tank to clean the bonding area, then pour it out & let it dry. It'll be a challenge to get the epoxy to where you need it through the sending unit opening but you're a resourceful guy. I know you'll come up with a way. Good luck.

I'll borrow a friends small video camera and get a good look at this baffle. That might give me some more ideas. Winter is coming quickly so not exactly a rush.

I woke up this morning thinking BIG magnets on top of the baffle and then flip it over...so the gears are turning.

It's spot welded around the bottom edge & open at the top. There's about 1/2" gap between the top of the baffle & the top of the tank.

Using the access through the filler and fuel gauge sender, locate the baffle. Go outside away from any flammables. Drill holes in 3 places to locate the baffle. Drill a few more 3/16 holes. Fill tank with water. Empty so as not to cause pollution. Repeat at least twice. Fill again and ignite the water till the fuel scum burns off. Wait a minute and light it again. While full of water, weld through the holes. Remove screws and weld those holes. Drain water. install.
Or Take it to a radiator shop.

Thanks Guys,

It does seem feasible that if I could get the baffle in position, it could be tacked through some small, easy to seal, exterior holes.

Lou, are you suggesting just tacking the baffle as it lays in the bottom so it can't rattle, or try to stand it back in a reasonably correct position?

I'll make some calls and see what kind of experience I can find at some shops. It may be an easy job for someone experienced; I just need to find the one guy that won't butcher it...

If it were me I'd try to locate it in the correct position. It's intended to minimize fuel slosh to help stabilize the gauge. The sending unit only mounts one way so it could possibly keep the sending unit from working right if it's not in the right place. If you can't tell by looking through the sending unit hole, you can locate the correct position by noting the spot welds on the bottom of the tank. FWIW radiator shops around here won't touch a gas tank. I discovered that while trying to get mine fixed.