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Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc
02/21/18 09:30 AM
The blocks have different numbers cast in them, the late block (which is the 1 I am rebuilding) has date code D 11 9 but due to its position I have not found date cast on the early block. They both look to be the same in the distributor area. I will get the camera going friday and try posting then. I am not looking for a factory rebuild but dont want it to big hassle either.
Tony
8 206 Read More
1929-1932
02/21/18 09:11 AM
TKS JD,
Much appreciated.
Was hoping it came from a later model.
20 336 Read More
1929-1932
02/21/18 09:10 AM
TKS JD,
Much appreciated
8 174 Read More
General Discussions
02/21/18 09:10 AM
I remember Ted's sequence of pics doing your car, I am not surprised you are happy with it.
Tony
14 344 Read More
1929-1932
02/21/18 06:18 AM
8 174 Read More
1929-1932
02/21/18 06:15 AM
The 3.5 ring and pinion gears were made for many years by Larry Jackson in California. They have been advertised many times in the past in the VCCA's magazine, the Generator & Distributor. We have also talked about Larry Jackson's gears numerous times here on Chevy Chatter as well. Unfortunately, Larry quit making the gears several years ago and they are no longer available.

laugh wink beer2
20 336 Read More
1916-1922 - Model 490 Only
02/21/18 05:25 AM
Howdy,

The only year that had the two exhaust ports was 1928, the last year of the 4 cylinder engines. And yes, it will bolt onto the top of your block. The new head gaskets that various vendors sell fit from 1916-1928.

I suspect the push rods will be a different length than what you have now, so that will need to be addressed.

The only thing I can think of regarding the water not flowing during idle is a problem with the baffle plate in the water pump. FYI, I recently rebuilt the water pump for a '28 engine. Here is the description and pictures of that rebuild: Rebuilding Lurch's water pump

BTW, I had a water leak in the head of my other truck, Justin (1928 AB Canopy Express). The head had a small crack near the thermostat housing at the front of the head. I opened the crack up some with a dremel and filled it with JB Weld. That slowed the leak tremendously, but didn't stop it. So, I added some Bars Leak to the radiator fluid and that stopped the leak.

Hope this helps. Dean
17 893 Read More
1929-1932
02/21/18 03:23 AM
Hi Jim,
Where did the 3.5 diff come from? Is it a new set from a vendor or is it from a different model Chevy?
Regards
Chris
20 336 Read More
1929-1932
02/21/18 03:19 AM
Thanks
8 174 Read More
1916-1922 - Model 490 Only
02/21/18 02:58 AM
Hey Guys,
First an update on my work that I have completed since the last post. I took the head to a machine shop. Had the bottom decked , new valves places and ground, new seats and guides placed and the guy attempted to weld the small crack on the the top of the head. He also put JB weld over the top of his weld for extra support. I took the radiator to a shop where they were able to clean out rust and flush all kinds of junk out. I also got a water pump rebuild kit finally from filling station and got it installed. I cleaned out water jackets from block to head to make sure I was going to have good water flow and blew out head and block with air to get all rust out. I got head back I installed it using the K&k copper coating. Went together really nice. I found that Chevrolet back in the day had a recommendation for torque on bolts depending upon size. The head bolt recommendation was 67 lb.


Now a few problems....

When filling the block with water the head started to leak water before I started the car so the weld repair by the machine dude did not work. Figuring that the head is prob shot. I am thinking that I need to get another head. I did buy one before when this one started to leak so I would have a backup but, the machine shop dude said that the one I bought had a bunch of spiderweb cracks next to the exhaust port and he did not think it was fixable. So wasted money on that head. I am looking for another head but, was wondering what year did they change the heads from single exhaust to the duel exhaust ports? I have read that the single exhaust port was terrible for getting hot and was easily cracked. The duel exhaust port was much better as I understand.

Would a later year duel exhaust port head fit on my 1922 block?

If so what years???

Since the head was leaking water I thought I would start car and see if I could put some stop leak in to seal the crack. Car started and ran well for a few minutes but, got hot just like it has been doing since I have owned the car. Thinking it was a cracked block. I decided to take the top radiator hose off to see what flow of water was running through the car. I took off the radiator hose so it was still hooked to the head of the car just not returning back to radiator. I had a bucket of water that kept the radiator full so it did not run out of water. SO when the car was at idle there was NO water coming out the hose on the top of the Head. When I would rev up the motor the water would come out but, nothing at idle????

WHY??? New water pump rebuild kit. I took it all back apart again to see if I screwed it up putting it together... nothing really to screw up though. All bolts tight. Silicone on both sides of gasket. radiator belt was tight. shaft was turning....bolt was in the groove on fan and nut was set so it would not get loose or spin. Filled radiator before slowly so all air would get out and no air pockets.


Any thoughts of why no water at idle? prob why its getting hot and cracked my head the first time??

Any thoughts on how to fix no water flow at idle? when rev up motor water flows like old faithful.


I am thinking of adding a in line radiator pump from summit racing just to see if it helps circulate water. something that would pump 20 gpm or so. Above I mentioned that I added another radiator in rear of car and have it flowing from original radiator to added one then to motor then back . When the no water was coming out the radiator hose from head all the hoses were hooked back to original design not going through added radiator in rear of car.



17 893 Read More
Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc
02/21/18 01:48 AM
Have me scratching my head. Gonna have to dig out my distributors and have a look as my block has 2 bolt holes. I took it apart but can't remember how it mounted. My block is an odd Canadian McKinnon Industries casting from Dec 1937 so might be slightly different than a later dated casting from one of the more common foundries.

Is your casting # Canadian Tony? They are different from the US and I recall some overlap around 1938/39 with some Canadian 1937 (going from memory) casting numbers looking like US 1939 casting#'s.
8 206 Read More
1929-1932
02/21/18 01:11 AM
my '30 could cruise all day with the 4:11 (straight and level, ha ) at 35/40 (top end was 58 with some left) but now it feels about the same at 50/55 with the 3.5 installed. but more important to me is the low end. first gear has been tamed. so much better for city driving. less like a tractor and more like a truck; a marked improvement, i'd say. jim
20 336 Read More
General Discussions
02/21/18 12:09 AM
Wow that State Trooper was very professional. It is hard to imagine it did not end up with night stick lumps.

Dave
45 2,181 Read More
PARTS - For Sale
02/20/18 11:51 PM
SOLD ! To a lucky buyer.
5 158 Read More
PARTS - For Sale
02/20/18 11:11 PM
Chevy parts for sale. These are parts left over from the restoration of my 1936 Chevy pickup in the early 1970s. This is the cream of the crop because when I completed the restoration I took most of the left over parts to a swap meet and unloaded them. This stuff has been in dry storage for over 40 years. All prices are negotiable and I’m glad to provide more detailed information and photos. This stuff all predates cheesy repops from China.
4 ea. NOS front spring eye threaded bushings. $5 ea.SOLD
4 ea. NOS front spring eye bronze lined steel bushings. $5 ea. SOLD
1 ea. NOS appearing Trico vacuum wiper motor with speed control, # 404-G on the part. $45 SOLD
3 ea. used Trico vacuum windshield wiper pull/push knobs. $5 ea.
1 ea. NOS GM ring gear and pinion 1935-36 car and commercial and 1937-39 commercial, 4.11 ratio, GM PN 602476. $60 SOLD
1 ea. NOS differential pinion gear nut. $5
1 set of 12 NOS rocker arm bronze bushings. $15 for set of 12. SOLD
4 ea. 1932-36 NOS flywheel nuts GM PN 837004. $10 for set of 4.
1 ea. NORS clamp on “peep” mirror. $10.
3 ea. NOS packages of 4 water pump shaft packing rings. $5 per package of 4.
1 ea. used AC gas filter casting and glass bowl. I have found modern filter elements that fit these. Filter casting and bowl $5.
1 ea. rechromed grille shell center bar bow tie ornament. $20. SOLD
1 ea. used near perfect original bumper face bar elongate bolt $10. SOLD
2 ea. used pickup hood side bow tie emblems. $10. ea. SOLD
1 ea. set of 6 NOS Fitzgerald 71249 push rod cover seals, replaces GM 837264 $6 for set of 6
1 ea. 1934-36 Chevy NOS GM rocker arm shaft support PN 837251. $5.
1 ea. 1930s era AC 100 MPH speedometer, used, 4” bezel diameter, curved glass, number and needle paint excellent condition, actually works ! but should probably be serviced after 40+ years storage $50. SOLD
1 ea. NOS 1936-39 generator commutator cover band. $5 SOLD
1 ea. used 1934-40 horn button metal cup $3.
Misc. NOS windshield wiper blade pairs. $5 per blade.
2 ea. 1936-50 brake drums, standard size, USA made original parts. Listed as fitting some models front and rear, some models rear only, some models front only. $25 ea.
0 25 Read More
General Discussions
02/20/18 11:06 PM
CT,

You have bragged to the point that I must post a come-back. So you have a total of the following:

a. Some lobsters (with claws)

b. Spring water. (from the mountains)

c. Soft-shell Clams. (I admit that I never herard of that food. Soft-shell crabs, yes but clams no)

d. Fresh Cod. (I thought they had been fished to extension. Hmmm)

e. Haddock (Never had that. But if it's like flounder we have a pleather a of them down here. Had a mess of them the other night.)

f. Deer (Really big ones) (Wow! Ours may not be as big but we have so many that they are a neusense.

Well, the above is about it. All the rest was things you didn't have. rolllaugh

Here is something we don't have much of down here. This was a Maine State Trooper. The gentleman he stopped didn't sound too much like a southerner. I'm not a linguist but the stopped individua's accent sounded just like my brother-in-laws's and he was from Boston. Agrin See the cite below:

Charlie computer

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRRTlrfTw0s

BTW: I have chosen to edit the above post. I merely want to point out that some of our polotiitions down here in the South are right on top of things. Just imagine the navy trying to pull a fast one on us. We are ever viligent for such gamesmanship. It is really hard to get something past our elected leaders. For instance:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cesSRfXqS1Q


45 2,181 Read More
1933-1936
02/20/18 10:57 PM
If they don't line-up at 40 go a little tighter. They didn't even have a torque spec in 1934.It dosen't matter which side odd number of shims are but Chevrolet suggested the camshaft side and was more of a way to remember what side had what.

Please let us know how many shims you removed.
23 351 Read More
1933-1936
02/20/18 10:20 PM
Thanks for all replys and information!
The rod nuts on my 34 master should be torqued to 40 foot pounds (or more - if the nut does not line up with the pin), is that correct?
If I will not be able to have the same shims on each side, does it matter which side have most / least shims?
23 351 Read More
VEHICLES - For Sale
02/20/18 09:00 PM
I am the second owner of this 33 year old 9 passenger wagon. It was bought new by my mother in law's neighbor. I have owned the car 5 years and used it as a second car at my home in Florida. This car was certified HPOF Original at the 2017 AACA Meet in Ocala Florida, where the car is currently located. This car was the last full size Chevrolet of that era to have used the Chevrolet 305 V-8 while the sedan were already using the Oldsmobile 305. Car is equipped with cruise control, AM/FM radio, power steering and brakes, power windows and locks, but oddly no power seat. I replaced the water pump, tie rods and center link, brakes, original alternator was rebuilt, new exhaust, new A/C compressor and A/C lines system was retrofitted to 134. The only thing this car could use is maybe a set of shocks. It is in very nice used car there are a few bruises on the right side from exiting and entering the garage. Someone touched up some of the wood grain with paint that was damaged and did a pretty good job of it, however I have a roll of the correct color and pattern wood grain di-noc material that goes with the car. I also located a set of NOS floor mats that add to the car and make a nice touch.The original factory grey primer is still on the bottom of the floorboards. This is a rust free car! from Long Island New York, was in a heated garage it's entire existence and never was taken out in the snow. I have the original owners manual, shop manual and sales literature, I also have an NOS rear bumper filler panel that is broken, This car will be listed for sale in the classifieds of the next issue of our great magazine Antique Automobile a nice clean car, fly in and drive it home! $8200 PM me if interested

(PLEASE NOTE I WILL BE OUT OF TOWN FOR A FEW DAYS THIS WEEK AND WILL BE AWAY FROM THE COMPUTER I WILL CONTACT YOU ONCE I GET ON LINE AGAIN)
Photos are posted on the AACA Forums to see photos please go to the link below (sorry, but it is easier to post photos on that site)
http://forums.aaca.org/topic/305840-1985-chevy-caprice-estate-wagon-fs/

Thanks for looking
0 31 Read More
Trucks and Vans
02/20/18 08:54 PM
I would say that the truck is equipped with wider wheels on both ends. The fronts look appropriate for the 700 tires you mentioned in an earlier post. The rears are wider yet to accommodate the larger 900.

Mike
11 270 Read More
General Discussions
02/20/18 08:42 PM
My buddy bought a tire through eBay, in Pottsville PA. I need someone who can pick it up and drop it at the nearest Fastenal store.

Thanks.

Mike
0 26 Read More
1955-1957
02/20/18 07:05 PM
2 87 Read More
1933-1936
02/20/18 04:53 PM
"If he could find it he could get it relined he has lost it somewhere he had it at one time. Ron"

Good morning Ron.

I have the clutch disc your uncle is seeking. Do I know you or him from the 1936 Chevy owners forum? If you're interested in this clutch disc, it and a lot of other Chevy parts of that era area available, left from my '36 pickup restoration in the early 1970s.

If his '36 is going to be a driver, not a trailer queen, I've figured out how to put 3.55 gears and a tandem master cylinder in a '36 and would be glad to share that information with him.

Ray W raywaldbaum@gmail.com
4 82 Read More
Body - Sheet Metal, Paint & Wood
02/20/18 03:02 PM
Wow! Is the driver's side the same? Why didn't they notice the problem. I couldn't sleep at night knowing I had a fit like that. I have had to make a part 5 times before I got it right. That is even with an original part that I thought was okay for a pattern. Missed a 6 degree offset a few times! You have to guess at some of the wood pieced and then fit it all together, put on the sheet metal and then adjust or remake. Sheet metal damage has to be taken into account. Also making sure both sides are the mirror image of the other. Takes a while but results are very satisfying.
4 158 Read More
PARTS - Wanted
02/20/18 02:46 PM
Looking for the cap covers for the top of the spare tire side mount brackets for a 34 Master. Any other side mount parts would also be appreciated.
Chuck
0 26 Read More
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