hi guys.girls.can someone pls tell me what the "black" dome thing on my pump is called...also maybe where I can get one
[in aust???].......the one I have has a hole...errr does that matter....is there another way to repair it????
thanks...dave...........


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

It is called the air dome , and it does matter, You may be able to remove it and braze or weld the hole up.

You can also solder the hole closed as well.

Soldering is the safe & easy bet...The flux residue is easily washed off immediately after completion...

Hi
Yes the hole can be brazed (if your really good at it) or soldered. The air dome on you fuel pump is in the wrong place and should be switched around with the brass nut. The air dome show be in the outlet check valve hole and not the inlet check valve hole.
Regards
Bob@marxparts

Make sure when you are putting the air dome in the proper place you don't loose the little spring and disc inside each one!

The airdome started in 32 and was used on 32/33 and 35/36 fule pumps. If I remember it was used to meter the flow of gas to the carb...may not be the right wording.

it was decided that the dome is too cracked + rusty to repair...
...so a guy sez to me that he will make one 4 me...........
...a pic later...???..thanks 4 your comments.......dave....

The air dome helps to keep the fuel pump from pulsating.

result is this..it has dome on inside


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
.......so now Im going to rebuild the pump.. diaphram dos'nt look good...Im looking at the kit from filling station...my pump has 1 spring+ 2 of the flat larger octaganal things internally..whereas the kit has 4 of each..+ lots of gaskets...
..wot I'm trying to say is...am I missing alot outa my pump,or,is the kit for severl differant pumps...and if so...how do I figure out what goes where???..the manual I have has 1 pic only......thanks4 any help..dave...
..............pic of the kit..................


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Dave
While I am not familiar with your particular pump if you look closely a lot of those parts are in your pump but dont look replaceable.
A few examples the 2 items lower left corner of pic are the valves and there will be a paper gasket for each, middle of bottom row is the seal for diaphram shaft, the pin is for the arm pivot.
The replacement dome looks good and should do what it is required to do.
Tony

bump

Like most kits there are parts for several years included. It is far easier and less costly to put in a few extra parts than inventory a larger number of kits.

thanks chipper..I understand that,...they are probly replacement parts for 1934/35/36 pumps...but..if Im missing bits..which I think I am,in my 35 pump..how do you know what bits to put in??? hopefully there will be some destructions in the pack as I lashed out+bought the kit 2day..........dave..........

The kit pictured contains: pump to block gasket, valve wafer discs, valve springs, hex screw cover gaskets, strainer screen, glass bowl gasket, arm spring, pivot shaft, diaphragm assembly. Those are the parts that normally need to be replaced. If you are missing other parts then you will need to find them or buy another pump. If someone took the pump apart and didn't get it back together correctly you might be missing a part (I doubt it).

You will need to decide which valve springs to use. Also check the valve seats to be sure they are flat and clean.

thanks chipper........errr,the strainer screen goes on the top of the glass bowl...yes???...umm...I dont need the 2 metal bits at the bottom LH corner...do I???they are not in my pump at the moment...I will just blunder along I spose..+ make it work...eventually.. .thanks...........dave.............

The 2 metal parts lower left are valves but maybe for a later model. They are fitted into the housing and generally have a few centre punch marks around the outside edge or a small plate screwed to the housing to hold them in place. Yours may have repairable type valve which would possibley use some of the brown pieces and the light duty springs.
Tony

I recently bought and fitted the very same kit from the FS.
I only used a few of the parts as I soon reasoned that it was a general purpose kit suited to several years and models. The diaphragm was the main part that I had my eye on and the pump now works very well....

Peter

errr....... am I a winner???...........
and on topic too....
..I thank you all....insert boos/whistles/yay/ ....here...
.....and I have fixed the pump...can start the car now...
...........dave

Well done Dave.
I hope to hear it running next time I get north out of the #$## snow.
Tony

A quick question, Witch one of the those valves keep the fuel from draining back to the tank when the car is shut off?

Quick answer:
Both valves in the fuel pump prevent back flow. Any leakage reduces the effectiveness of the pump as well as allows back flow.

are the valves the little fiber disc's with the little springs?

Yes.

Yes, the discs are a one way flow device. They move away from the seat to allow fuel to be drawn past them and are pushed shut so it does not flow back from whens it came. That way it can be moved from the tank to the carburetor.

Does the new diaphram need to be pre-loaded or anything when assembling??

When assembling the joint where the diaphram is I start all screws to finger tight then operate the arm to its full travel before tightening all screws down fully. This ensures the diaphram has enough flexibility to cope with the actual movement required.
Tony

I agree. You always want to assemble the fuel pump in a "loaded" condition. Squeeze the lever, so that the diaphragm is at least level with the two base halves. While holding it there, tighten all of the screws.

Don't assemble it with the diaphragm in the (slack) "up position".

-Bill

Here is what the Chevrolet repair manual states about the placement of the diaphragm when assembling the fuel pump:

"Exert pressure upward on the linkage. This forces the diaphragm to its extreme high position and while it is held in this position, the cover screws should be tightened alternately and securely."