I have a 1933 Master 5 Window Coupe. My car wasn't charging so I removed the generator. I pulled it apart and cleaned it as good as I could with some scotchbrite and denatured alcohol. It was in real bad shape. Lots of rust on everything. The brushes looked good so I will keep the new ones I ordered from the Filling Station for a later time. I replaced the cutout relay with the one from the Filling Station with a diode in it. The generator now charges. But while reinstalling it I discovered a wire that seems to go nowhere. It has an eyelet on it, so it should be connected to something. Anyone with ideas on where it connects please let me know. I did check it with a volt meter. When I turn the key to the on position there is still no current in this wire. Also, what should I be oiling this generator with? I sprayed a little silicon spray into the oiling cups. What should I be putting in the generator for lubrication?

You should use a few drops of a light weight oil in the oil cups.....not silicon spray.

Thanks Junk Yard Dog. I will put some oil in it tomorrow. I have been reading the 6V Electrical section and some people are talking about a felt strip in the generator that is used to wik oil to the armature. When I had my generator apart it did not have any felt strip inside it. I am assuming it would be inside that end cap with the three small screws holding it on the end of the generator. I'm thinking I need to find some felt to put in it.

That is correct.....there is a felt wick in the end frame of the generator. It is oiled by the oil cup that is on the end frame of the generator. The felt wick should be okay.

sewing machine oil...o.k ..make in 3in1

The rebuilder of my generator installed sealed bearings. With sealed bearings oil is not necessary.

Seems to me that the engine oil should be good enough for lubricating the generator.

Charlie

3 in 1 oil is too "thin". Chevrolet said motor oil.
Was there a new wiring harness installed? The little tag near the end of the wire looks like there possibly was. The extra wire may have been for a two wire generator and for ging to the field terminal that you do not have.

The rear end frame on the 943J generator has a bushing, not a bearing, so oil at that point is definitely necessary.

Just saw this post. Sorry for the delayed input.

I agree with the discussion about the engine oil and felt wick for the rear bushing. Unless your rebuilder completely changed the rear frame of the generator that is not a bearing.

Is the extra wire for the horn? I am not familiar with the details of the wiring or the under hood configuration for the 1933 coupe so that might not be appropriate.

I am not sure what is in the rear end frame. If there is not a bearing then perhaps the builder installed an oilite bushing. He rebuilt both my starter and generator and advised their was only one place that needed oil and it was the bushing in the drive end housing of the starter. I suppose if there is an oil cup in the end frame of the generator a drop of oil won't hurt as it was 16 years ago that they were rebuilt. I can't ask the rebuilder as his memory has failed and perhaps mine is headed the same way.

The starter only get used for short bursts ....the generator is spinning at high RPM sometimes for hours.

Back in the '60's before altenators we were having problem with the rear bushings burning out. Then Delco came out with a change-over kit with a new rear end frame with a ball bearings.

The front bearing in an altenator is the same bearing used in the front of a generator going back into the '20's....but is a sealed bearing.

Mid year in 1948 Chevrolet eleminated the oiler on the starter and went to the oilite bearing.

That's very interesting Gene and I will have to check to see what I have. Sometimes the numbers on the tags are misleading. I purchased a starter at a flea market because it had A 714L tag on it. However my local rebuilder says it will not fit my 32 Chevy as the armature and drive end housing are for an Oliver tractor.

Could always find an Oliver Tractor.
The drive end housing could be exchanged. Then would measure the length of the armature to be sure.
Last year I had a 1937 starter and a friend needed a starter for a 1934. Unbolted the '37 housing and installed the '34 housing was all that was needed to fit.