This is curiosity more than anything. The Shop Manuals for several years all say, when pulling or installing an engine, just whip out tool J-4536-A (which is the same number back in 216 6 cylinder days and on into the '60s), which is basically two big eyebolts, which go into cylinder head bolt holes.

So what they never tell you is, WHICH head bolt holes are appropriate? I was thinking about using this method on my '56 265 V8, so that I could leave more stuff already installed when I go back in with it soon.

Do we not care that those head bolts are already torqued down to spec? Just pull a couple head bolts, drop in the engine, and then re-torque those two head bolts?

But the real question is, does it matter which head bolts we use?

With a V8 I would get one of the plates that bolt on the intake in place of the carb.

Thanks, dens41. Yeah, I am old school, I have never lifted an engine with one of those carb plates, I can't possibly get myself to trust those little carb fasteners and hanging an engine and cast iron Powerglide and all that weight (and work!). Normally, yes, I use the little brackets that bolt onto the intake manifold bolts.

But the question is about the tool, and bolting into head bolt holes.

Lifted many cast iron big blocks with the carb. plate. Also lift my 216 with trans. on with the two studs that hold the valve cover down. never a problem. The 216 with a angle iron with holes drilled to match the studs.

So then, I'm going to conclude nobody knows if there are specific head bolt holes to be used with this J4536A tool on a V8. Which in turn probably means it doesn't matter which holes you pick.

I have done a lot a V-8 in and outs and always used intake bolts. Never bothered with head bolts valve train is in the way and never like the angle that the chain with eye bolts in the head bolt location