Has anyone purchased a rebuilding kit for their 1937-51 fuel pump? Looking for a good source that has ethenol compatable rubber parts. Thanks.

The Filling Station FS-910 for single diaphragm and FS-910D for dual diaphragm.

Thanks, I saw those in their catalog. Does not state if they are ethenol compatable. Ended up buying a kit from another source.

I doubt anyone selling kits today unless NOS is selling kits with non-ethanol compatible diaphragms. There how to do it service instructions explicitly states to use ethanol compatible kits and references the above part numbers and is very helpful whether you got the kit from them or not.

I ordered a fuel pump from where I work. It was an Airtex #429 that fits a 1937-51 216 engine. When it came in, there was no statement on the box or litereture stating if it was ethanol compatable or not. I called the tech department at Airtex and he stated - THIS PUMP IN NOT ETHONAL COMPATABLE. So, why do major manufacturers and re-manufactures offer ANY fuel related part that will fail with todays @$%^& gas. Until the new rebuilding kit arrives, I cannot add antifreeze to my car. Next week the temps are going to dip to the 20's. I am really getting tired of taking one step foward and three steps back.

I checked the Rock Auto site and it list the 429 as compatible with various modern fuels. I then called Airtec and spoke with Craig and he advised it is compatible with todays fuels including E10 however not E85. I did mention you had called and he advised that he had several people out and perhaps you reached someone that was not knowledgeable or misinterpreted your question as adaptable for E85.

Welcome to the old car hobby. Seems like that is the nature of the hobby today and many folks have the same problem.

I have been using a fuel pump that was new or rebuilt so long ago that I doubt ethonal was even thought of as a fuel suplement.

Hawkeye, I recommend you stick that sucker in and forget about it.

The scare tatics about ethonal just keep on a-coming.

Charlie

BTW: I don't understand your inability to add anti-freeze. Merely open the petcock at the bottom of the radiator and the opening at the lower rear of the block. Catch the fluid coming out and, if clean, you can add it to the anti-freeze. The 50-50 will flood the innards of the engine. Close the petcock and valve when done and forget it.

Charlie, I wondered about that too but decided he must be talking about fuel line antifreeze which may contain alcohol?

Possibly he just wants to start the car and circulate the antifreeze.

All I wanted to do was start the engine so I can add fresh anti freeze and water pump lube/anti rust additive. Still have not been able to start the engine so I did the next best thing. Because the Polar Vortex is heading my way tonight and the world as we know it is going to be frozen over solid, I drained all the fluid out of the radiator and the engine. Just for the heck of it, I tested what came out of the block. Why was I so concerned. The antifreeze was good to +20 degrees. That might be okay for Florida but not Ohio. This weekend, the temps are supposed to be in the 40's. Hopefully, one last chance to try and get this vehicle started and put to bed the correct way.

If you drained both the block and radiator you will be safe.

Yes, both the radiator and the block are drained.

I bought an ethanol compatible kit from these guys for an AC pump on a Pontiac. They will want the exact numbers off of your pump as there can be internal differences.

http://then-now-auto.com/

Gas in my area is nearly all cut with ethanol. Its working so far.

Thanks. I did get a kit from them. Just waiting for a chance to start working on the pump - probably after the holidays.