As most of you know i got my Engine and Transmission back in the 1929 Frame. now comes the fun part of installing all the accessories and parts that bolt on the engine. All NEW Hardware was used to Install the Starter

Splash Pans were installed first, First up on the list was the starter:
Engine Trans Housing Where Strater Mounts
Starter Installed w/ Starter Pedal Assembly
Side View Of Starter & Redal Assembly

Once the Starter was secured, Next up was the Generator & Adjustment Arm. The Belt was also installed to assist with installation and proper adjustment of the Generator.
All NEW Hardware was used to Install the Generator
Side View of Generator Installed
Front View of Engine w/ Generator Installed

After the Generator was secured and Adjusted, I decided to install the NEW C&P Automotive (Billy Possum) Push Rods & Caps in prep for the rebuilt Rocker Arm Assembly to go in.
C&P Automotive Push Rods & Caps C&P Automotive Caps Up Close
They come sealed in an airtight back with a light coat of oil on them to keep them protected.
Push Rods and Caps Installed
I also Installed NEW C&P Automotive Tappets, when i installed the Push Rod Cover.

Once the Push Rods & Caps were installed next up was the Rocker Arm Assembly. I had the COMPLETE Rocker Arm Assembly rebuilt via Rocker Arms Unlimited out in CA. These guys are very knowledgeable about the vintage Chevrolets. They have all the equipment and tools to do the job right, including creating the correct contour on the Rocker arm tips !! I worked w/ Gary out there, and he took care of me in every aspect. Read more and see Pictures of their work here: 1929 Rocker Arm Rebuild - w/ Picts

New Wicks from The Filling Station
Wicks Installed
Wicks Installed Close Up
Rocker Arms Installed w/ Rods & Wicks
Wicks Instaleld w/ Caps Close Up

After the Rocker Arms, I set the valves, this took some time, as i checked and double checked to make sure that they were set correctly with Piston 1 @ TDC.

Once that was done Next to go in was the Distributor:
Distributor Installed
NEW Hardware was used here as well

I also took the time to set the points gap and then double check that while here as well. I am trying to get all the critical items COLD SET so that when i am ready i can try and fire the engine with little or NO issues... CROSSING MY FINGERS !!

Well next up was the Manifold Assembly !!
1929 Manifold Assembly Installed
Side View of Manifold Assembly

Bear, I just got my rockers back from Bob Marx. I'm looking at your close up of the rocker and wick. It looks like you put a washer under the post. I noticed when I assembled my rebuilt rockers that there is not room for the wick to go between the pushrod cap and the bottom of the rocker to touch the adjusting screw ball. I am thinking that I need to raise the assembly a little. It may be that the newly welded tips are too thick. What are your thoughts?

I tried shimming the posts with .090" thick washers. It looks like they will work fine. I had not thought about the valves being re seated deeper into the head making the stems stick up further.

Thank you for taking all the time and effort it takes. To take all the pictures and adding the description with them. I thought I knew a lot about cars until I got my 1930 sedan. So seeing everything you are doing is very helpful. One of the parts on my car that I still have a hard time figuring out is the electrolock. If you have pictures of the rebuild of it and attachment to the distributor. I would be very interested in seeing them.
As my 1930 would not start this spring after sitting over the winter. I took the distributor end of the electrolock apart. Put a little more spring in the spring. I don't think it was making full contact with stud. I also took out paper gasket out from inside the distributor and made one out of teflon. Which was 1/16 of a inch thick. I know this is not factory,but car is running perfect now. Learning the proper way from you professionals would be much appreciated.
Thanks: Larry

i had to do the .060 shims under the posts because PO installed aftermarket, later year valves and they are taller than the stock, and they cut the push rods down to compensate. 1929 Head Check - Valves

so when i put int he rebuild arms, and then the NEW C&P Push Rods & Caps, when i tightened down the bolts to hold the arms in, it pressed open all the valves. even if i removed the adjusters from the arms. this was the only way i could get it to work. based on my math it worked out just fine. will see how it does once i get it running up and to temp and HOT Set the valves.

Per a previous comment i checked my belt and ordered a NOS Dayco #24380 17A0965 per an article on here about belts. It is NON Wrapped, NON cogged Belt Made in the USA.

It is shorter that the GATES that the PO had installed.
Dayco 24380 in Wrap
Dayco 24380 Close Up Side View
Dayco 24380 Close up Stamp
Dayco 24380 V Close Up

Installed the belt
Engine Front View Dayco
notice the angle from before to now
Engine Front View Gates

The guy had 4 On Hand, I picked up 2 of them !!

Installed the one, and have one for Spare

The Dayco 24380 is the correct belt for your 1929.

took some time to install the Grease Cup off my old Water Pump onto the New Filling Station Bearing Water Pump. I had to clean and chase the threads on the 1/8" NPT tap to get the Grease cup to thread in.

also cleaned up and painted the cup for installation !!
NEW Water Pump with the Grease Fitting from TFS
Grease Cup Base Installed
Grease Cup Cap Installed

Hi,
Any chance of a few photos of how the front and rear brackets for the engine splash pans are fitted?
Have purchased a new set from FS which replaced my old bent and buckled old ones but forgot to take photos prior to removal.
Things just do not seem to line up the way I thought they should.
Keep up with your interesting story

Hmmm... think i have a few here:

let me know if these are good enough, or if you need more, i can go out and take some off the car.

NO GUARANTEE they are correctly installed though !!

1929 Engine Splash Pans