I have a 32 three speed w/Free wheeling. The free wheeling is locked out. When I back up, stop, then put it in first, and let the clutch out, there is a slack in the drive train before it moves forward.
What is it? Could it be the free wheeling?
Thanks, Norm
Hello Nkopp,
I don't know. It might be anywhere between the clutch and rear axle. Is it the same if you go from first to reverse? That means slop in any or all of the clutch, transmission, freewheeling, universal, reared gears. You might want to measure the slop difference, if any, between being in first gear and reverse gear by jacking up one rear wheel and rotating it by hand. If both first and reverse measure the same slop, nothing is known. If there is a difference, suspect transmission issues. If not much slop is found either way, suspect the clutch. It's a matter of elimination.
I put it in 1st gear, jacked up one rear tire and measured 5 1/2" motion at the OD of the tire, rotating it forward and back. The looseness noise seemed to come from the free wheeling case. Could this be normal? Same results in reverse gear.
Norm
Kind of sounds like the same issue as me!
Hello Nkopp,
Ok then, nothing is known if slop is the same in forward and reverse. Disconnect the universal, clamp the prop shaft (drive line), and see if you get the same 5 1/2" motion OD of the tire. While disconnected and if able, with transmission in first and reverse, measure the rotation of the output shaft yoke at the universal. Take notes of the measurements for reference. This should narrow down the general location of the slack/slop.
OK, now this requires sliding the universal cover back because it is a closed drive shaft. Before I do that, does anyone know if this amount of slack is normal, and if not, what amount IS normal.
Thanks, Norm
Hello Nkopp,
I don't know what would be considered a normal amount of play/slack in the drive train system. Without appling the parking brake to hold the vehicle still, using the transmission gears (usually first or reverse) to hold a stopped vehicle from rolling away, it will move until the play/slack is taken up. Over time components wear and the play increases, how much is too much, I guess it's up to the owner. Consider that investigating the matter is good inspection practice of wear and tear and lubrication and increased mechanical knowledge.
Check the front propeler shaft bushing ,there is also a splined connection between the front propeller shaft to the input drive gear at he rear. Ither could be loose .brass bushing could be worn in the front of the drive tube depending on the load of due to rotation one side might be worn more than the other . This might be why the noise doesn't happen in reverse . Good luck .
Read my post about my own driveline noise and slack. The easy way to check is to pull the hub cap and turn the wheel by hand and watch your axle nut. If the nut stops and wheel continues to move then the key ways or even the lug nuts are bad. This is easy to check before taking things apart. I should have done it first rather than taking everything apart. You can disconnect one parking brake pull rod under the car and then turn the wheel that isn't braked. Then do the opposite. It's a lot easier than all the other stuff. Mine noise sounded like the trans also but it was the driver's side axle key way.
Good stuff,
I will try that next.
Norm
I pulled the hub cap. There was a very little play in the key to keyway on the left side. I tightened up the nut one cotter key position, then it stopped. But when I drove it, the major play was still there. Still sounds like it comes from the universal joint behind the free wheeling. I guess I will have to pull back the cover.
Norm
Lots of times when chasing these issues it's process of elimination. Checking the hubs/keys is the easiest and at least you know that you've checked it. The joint is the next easiest to check. Don't forget the torque tube bushing also. Sorry it wasn't the keyways as I know the frustration.