I'm getting ready to pull (drop) the transmission out of my '29
Coach. It just leaks to much for me, besides my '29 Model-A Fix-Or-Repair-Daily leaks enough for both cars. Anybody got any hints, "secrets" or 'don't-do-this' advice for me on this undertaking? It will be a first time event for me too. I've got a good collection of basic tools and new gaskets/seals on hand. Also, will most likely be only one (me) to do the job.
Heck, I can't even get my 'ol lady to wash and polish my Harley! :cry:

1929 Chevrolet "The Most Outstanding Chevrolet In Chevrolet History"

Hi,

Don't know why you are going into the transmission, but on the re-assembly replace the input shaft bearing with a sealed bearing. Remove the seal from the side that faces the transmission.

If you have a can of gas tank sealer coat the ends of the two shafts before assembly. This will stop some of the slow leak around the shafts.

straight edge the input shaft retainer. i had one that was warped and i pulled the tranny 3 times before i
picked up on the source of the leak. mike

Ray, Mike
Thanks for the info. The transmission just leaks to much and from
both ends. I'm sure some of the leakage on the front of the tranny is coming from the engine. The oil pan is also coming off for a clean up and reseal. The odometer shows only a little over 20,000 miles and I believe it is accurate. The car is all original except for tires, upper/lower body paint, outside door handles and the radiator core. Hopefully the work I do on her will be as good as when she was new. :grin: Thanks again guys
all advice is much appreciated. Bob

1929 Chevrolet: A Six In The Price Range Of A Four!

You might also like to put some thread sealing compound on the thread of the bolts that hold the transmission to the clutch housing.
This will slow down,or stop any transmission oil seeping its way along the bolt threads,as the bolts screw straight into open holes in the gear case,and have the transmission oil ready & waiting to weep its way along the threads,creating another source of oil leakage.
Had the same problem with my car,and after machining up a new front bearing retainer with a modern seal,and putting LOCTITE 515
sealant on the threads,no more leaks.

CJP 29,
Thanks for the advice I'll use it when the time comes. At present
I've removed most of what might be in the way of dropping the transmission except the brake system cross shafts. To do that it looks like I might have to remove the muffler too. Which is something I do not want to have to do! Maybe I can undo/loosen
and slide the brake cross shafts out of the way..... Once I get through with reconditioning the floor/toe boards, brake/clutch
pedals and their "seals" I'll get on the tranny. Thanks again
everybody for your help. Bob


1929 Chevrolet: The Most Outstanding Chevrolet In Chevrolet History

hey harley
i just finished putting the trans back in my
30 coach. i made 2 threaded pins from bolts that i cut the heads off. after you remove the bolts from the bell housing
thread these pins in and it lets you remove or rest the trans
on these pins. as the trans has to come out or go in straight.

buggymangp, Hey, sorry to take so long in responding, Daytona Beach, FL Bike Week, ya' know. Thanks for the neat and simple trick. They are always the best kind. I am about finished redoing all the pedals, floor boards areas so they will be all "bolt-in" items after I fix the tranny. Bob


1929 Chevrolet: Outstanding Chevrolet Of Chevrolet History

hey harley
i understand. i did the same thing. as a matter of fact.
i just put back the pedals and floor boards last saturday.
i have to tell you my 30 is looking good in there. i have since moved on to the brakes and rear axle area now. i pulled the cover off the diff and it looks fine in there. i just need to clean and replace the seals and bearings. my 30 is real close to getting back on its wheels and being driven under its own power.
its been a long hard winter seeing my 30 on jack stands. i`m going to be so scared to drive it once its done. LOL

buggymangp,

Sounds like you've been doing a lot of work on your coach. A while back I went over the rearend of my coach. I found one bad rear axle seal and replaced the external service brake springs.
Everything else was in good shape. I was even amazed that the rear axle splines on both axles showed absolutely no wear. However, I still bought a spare rear axle and will keep it under
the rear seat. Work has slowed up on the transmission. I have even yet to drop the oil pan on the engine and see how deep the sludge is! I've also found a guy to do some cadmium plating for me. Tomorrow or the next day I'm sending him all my hood clamp/catch/handles to be replated. Weather wise it is getting warmer here and my drafty shop building is more comfortable to work in so hopefully I get more in "gear"..so to speak, pun intended! :grin: :grin: :grin:

Well this morning I finally removed the transmission from my coach. I used a Sears motorcycle lift and it worked like a piece-of-cake! The tranny itself looks in great shape with minimal wear on the teeth and some light pitting. As I suspected the
tranny main drive bearing retainer is shot and I have a genuine
"Billy Possum" repair part to replace it with. Other then the new retainer/seal it does not look like I will need to tear down the tranny itself. Just a thorough clean up with attention paid to all gasket surfaces and bolt holes. I only hope I can remember
how to put everything back together again.... the correct way....

don't forget to replace that 3/8 bolt behind the throw-out fork. had a hell of a tranny leak and removed the tranny twice before i discovered i neglected to replace the bolt(its hidden by the throw-out fork. good luck, mike the big dummy

You also might want to replace the main drive gear bearing with a double sealed bearing. That will eliminate any leakage in the future.

:) :grin:

Hi Mike,

You have my attention. I purchased a car some time ago and I feel sure part of the reason it was for sale was the massive leak of oil from the transmission. I did a complete tear down and discovered the bolt you mention had been left out. Installed a bolt in there and WOW, no more massive oil leak.

This was a leak while driving. It would sit all day and not produce but a few drops.

Mike,
It took me a while to realize there was a bolt behind the fork,
so hopefully I won't forget to put it back when I need too.

JYD,
I thought about replacing the original bearing with a sealed one.
But, the original is O'K and I don't want to tear a part the tranny itself if I don't have to. I'll just be extra careful with the new gaskets and seal.

A few minutes ago I removed the pressure plate and clutch disc.
Looks like I need to find a good or relined disc. Anybody got one? :confused:

Thanks for the info. and advice, guys. :vcca:

To help my memory I always take a lot of pictures. Your disc could be resurfaced at a clutch or brake. That is were I had mine done on my 31 coupe. Good luck with your project.

1931Sal,

I have yet to learn how to use a digital camera, but I sure do need to! I do not live very close to any automotive machine shop
that could reline my disc for me. That is why I would just like to find a new or good used one. There are some later year Chevy disc's on eBay, but I don't know if they will work. Thanks, Bob

hey harley
i have a freshly rebuilt pressure plate from my 30 coach
that i don`t need. i could sell to you. i had 2 pressure plates rebuilt and only needed one. i don`t know if its the same for your 29.
i don`t have the casting numbers right now but i could check if your interested.

buggymangp,

I'll send you a PM and yes I am interested. Thanks, Bob

hey harley
i sent you a PM.
thanks.

Well, I'm wanting to start putting the tranny back into my coach, but have run into a problem. Is there a ridge inside of the pilot bushing hole, in the end of the crankshaft, that prevents the bushing from going in to far? If so then there was NO old bushing in the crankshaft for me to remove!?!? I have tapped on this ridge with a small chisel and did not detect any gold (brass/bronze) markings only silver (steel?) color ones. I have measured the new replacement pilot bushing and if all I do is push in the new bushing. It will be flush with the end of the hole at the end of the crankshaft. Did someone forget to install a pilot bushing at one time? The odometer shows only 23K miles and it does not look like the tranny/clutch has ever been worked on before thay I can tell. Anybody got a simple explanation for this? And/or all I need to do is just tap in the new bushing and continue to put everything back together again.......? TIA, Bob

Hi Captain,

Sure it is possible that the transmission was removed early in the life of the car. Perhaps the bushing was loose and came out with the transmission. If your thoughts were on the transmission it could easily not be noticed. Check the bushing you have on the shaft of the transmission. Drive it in and go-for-it.

.... don't forget to check the transmission input shaft, the pilot bushing could have seized onto it and still be there. Not likely, but who knows, and as Antique Mechanic says, you need to check the inside diameter fit of the bushing over the tranny shaft anyway.

You may also want to put some Loctite 603 on the bushing before you press or drive it in, just as extra insurance since it looks like it may have come out before.

Hope that helps.

All the Best,

Chip

Ray & Chip,
Thanks for your comments. I've come to the conclusion that somebody just flat forgot to replace the pilot bushing last time the transmission was out! There definitely was none anywhere when I pulled the tranny. Now on putting in the replacement pilot
bushing. I like the loctite idea, but what about lubing it? Service manual says to soak the bushing in motor oil for 24 hrs before installing and to 'never' use grease?!? TIA, Bob

I've used a light coat of white lithium grease before in similar applications and never had a problem, but I'm sure others will have more experience than I do on this particular application. I'm skeptical about how much oil a plain bronze or brass bushing will soak up overnight -- about zero I would guess.

Other opinions?

All the Best, Chip.

The bushing should be oilite or other similar prelubed material. Do not use plain bronze bushing as it will not retain oil and provide long term lubrication. The loctite should not be necessary but is an option. Make sure to soak the bushing in oil and then clean the outside very well before installing. If there is an oil film on the outside of the bushing or the crankshaft bore then the loctite will not be effective.

Chipper,

I got the bushing from the Filling Station so I hope it is an oilite. I'm going to start soaking the bushing after I leave here. Within a couple of days I'll dry off the outside of it and
loctite it in with a small dab.

Thanks everybody your help is much appreciated! Bob

hey harley
i`m glad that pressure plate i sold you is working out.
i just moved my 30 into my garage last weekend. we moved my friends 48 stylemaster into his garage where my 30 sat all winter. work on the 48 is on going. we sand blasted the whole body last week after i moved my 30 out. now welding up the 48.