Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Clement, eertle
Total Likes: 5
Original Post (Thread Starter)
#487876 12/18/2023 6:35 PM
by eertle
eertle
Hi all,

I will be receiving a 1941 Chevy Special Deluxe. It’s located about 3.5 hours from me. I would really like to get it running before trailering it to make the loading and unloading easier.

It sat in a barn for 30 years and then was restored in about 2000. I don’t know exactly what was done at that time, but I know for a fact it was running in 2004 when it was placed in a garage. It has not been driven since.

My plan is to put a new battery in it and drain/replace any old fuel in the tank. I will of course check all fluids prior to attempting to start. Is there anything else I should look out for or be prepared to do in order to get it running?

Thanks in advance!
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#487888 Dec 18th a 09:11 PM
by Tiny
Tiny
These cars used DOT3 brake fluid. It attracts water. The brake cylinders and pistons are bare steel. Picture water sitting against bare steel for all those years. The pistons inside the cylinders could (likely but not guaranteed) be rusted in place. If they're in the brakes released position and rusted in place you'll have no brakes when you step on the pedal. If they're in the brakes applied position the wheels will be locked. If, by chance, they're not rusted in place, the cylinder wall will likely be pitted and when you press the brake pedal fluid will leak past the seal and you'll lose all the fluid. Plan on doing a full brake job before getting the car on the road.
1 member likes this
#487910 Dec 20th a 04:04 AM
by Rusty 37 Master
Rusty 37 Master
You need to start thinking old school. The design of the frames and suspensions on these cars was not optimized for minimum weight and crush zones. There were no designated tow and lift points. In fact these cars used bumper jacks to lift the car far enough to change a wheel.

While I would not just grab on the bumper, I would not be too concerned with hooking to the heavier portions the frame or front axle
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#488723 Jan 15th a 03:18 AM
by Rusty 37 Master
Rusty 37 Master
Just because the gas smells ok does not mean that the tank is not full of water and sediment below the gas. That is what will get pulled into the pump and carburetor first.

I quietly cringe and walk away when people tell their hero stories about starting a long idled engine in 30 minutes after they dragged the car out of the barn/woods.

Connecting a battery to a car that has been sitting where rodents can eat the insulation off the wiring is a recipe for disaster.
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#490727 Mar 20th a 03:35 PM
by Rusty 37 Master
Rusty 37 Master
That is great news! Thanks for the update.

Enjoy the rejuvenation!
1 member likes this
#490897 Mar 27th a 08:46 PM
by Chev Nut
Chev Nut
The insulator needs no gasket, top or bottom.
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