Took a pic of the grease fitting on the u-joint bell housing where a fill plug should be, just so folks can see that grease instead of 600 w is going in. I can remove the 4 bolts on the cover and clean it out and put 4 oz. of oil in, like suggested, but what is the best way to do that? I was told to "prop up" the drive shaft and I will but what else needs to be done. if any.
The next mystery is a doozy! Took a pic of the 6 volt battery and how it's connected......with the positive terminal connected to the starter and the negative to ground. Isn't that the opposite of how it should be hitched up? I took a pic of what looks like a capacitor of some kind on the generator, thinking that is why I have a battery set up the way I do. Like I had mentioned in earlier posts, the person who owned the car before me had driven the car 5000 with no problems. The dash gage shows a charge when revved.
Yes, mine originally had a plug in it, put in the alemite fitting. i did a complete transmission rebuild so cleaned mine then. you can remove the 4 bolts old the ball, slide the ball backwards, i would scrape out what grease i could by hand, then use some brake clean and spray it out, let it dry, put it back together and then put in 4 oz oil. or can let it be if you see fit.
just remember that you can NOT disconnect the torque tube (drive shaft) or u-joint without pulling engine or rear end. tight quarters as only the ball and short tube slide back on the torque tube cover. the chamber that houses the u-joint is not directly open to the transmission !! they are separate. granted trans oil can seep into the u-joint chamber !!
if it ain't causing problems to create one :)
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
positive directly to the starter switch lug on top.
negative directly to chassis
what model of generator is that, for 1929-32 should be the Delco-Remy 943J, looks like a newer model since it has a post and different style cutout on it. 943J and cutout has one connection going back to the battery to charge it.
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
Ah, OK.....battery is a go then. On the grease in the ball housing, I think I'll leave it for now. Someone had the idea long before me and like you said, so far it's been working for 5000 miles (last owner's words) and maybe another 5000 for me. Just for any thoughts....what kind of grease should I use, if I decide to give it a pump or two?
Oh, and I put the strange bolts I thought were drain/fill plugs back in and they both seem to go in as far as they were before I unscrewed them. Snugged them up a bit but not reefing on them. Hope all is ok with that debacle. Added 600 w to the tranny as well as the pumpkin, which did take a while to drain, but there is more in there now (just shy of the fill plug hole) than there was when I first checked it......down about half of what it is now.
Changed the plug wires, coil, engine oil as well as just going over all the mechanical connections that needed a tad bit of lubrication, so I'll be on the road with what's left of the driving season up here in the Finger Lakes of Central NYS.
I cannot thank everyone enough for helping with this new old car.....Don
Do not worry about refilling the u joint ball...if you did not take th ball apart it is still holding the 1/2 pint of Gear oil and/OR will self fill from the transmissio if it was EMPTY AND THERE IS NO WAY TO CHECK THE LEVEl.
To check the oil level in the u-joint space, I made a tiny dip stick to go into the oil fill hole.
I took a slim steel flat bar from an old window wiper, but off a 7 inch length, and bent one end into a circle (handle).
This dip stick is small enough to go into the 1/8 NTP threaded fill hole and I figure I have enough oil in that space when one inch of oil is showing on the dip stick.
;-) Dean
Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz old and ugly is beautiful!
