VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc 1950 Driveline Question

This question was posted here some time ago, but I cannot find the responses. The gear oil is going from the transmission to the rear axle. When I checked the trans fluid level, it was low. When I checked the rear axle level, the oil flowed out. What is the correct fix for this? Should I drain the extra oil out of the rear axle? Thanks

The fix is to replace the seal (and bushing?) at the universal end of the torque tube. A remedy is to periodically drain the excess from the rear axle housing and add it to the transmission. The transmission will likely need a little added as the ball housing around the U-joint will probably lose a minor amount as the car is driven

Get an Oakiie bushing and seal kit from the Filling Station.

YES drain the differential over fill out so it does not get to the brake parts.

Chipper & Gene, thanks for the information. Can I do this repair from under the car?

Yes,

I do not know if the original seal is still in there or if there was an Oakie seal installed at a later date. If the original seal is in there, I just pull it out with a "hook" type tool. If there is an Oakie seal, do I push it into the tube OR do I remove it? What would you do?

When the Oakie is installed the rear bushing and seal are NOT removed.

Thanks Gene.

Gene, I removed the ball housing and the trunnion bearing from the car. I can see the end of what looks like an Oakie bushing in the tube. I inserted a thin wire in between the fluted shaft end and the bushing and the wire goes in and stops the same length as the new bushing. Do I assume that there is only one bushing in the toque tube and that I can push it back with the new bushing? What if there are two bushings? Can I insert the new bushing and push two old bushing further in the tube without causing problems? Should I consider a bushing removal tool? Help!

If it does have an Oakie bushing assembly you will have to remove it. There is a fictional YouTube video show how easy it is to extract an Oakie bushing with a puller. That is not a realistic expectation. In all probability you will have to pull the torque tube.

I agree.Will need to drive it out from the rear.
What year is the torque tube from?

1953

The 1953 bushing it pressed into the tube and can be difficult to remove,

Can I remove the outer tube at the rear axle assembly and slide the tube forward?

YES after you pull out the axles about 12 inches.

I was able to remove the original bushing/seal from the torque tube. I installed the new oakie bushing in it's place. The problem now is the the trunnion yoke will not slide all the way into the tube. I checked the fit BEFORE I installed the oakie bushing and the yoke fit into the bushing fine. I installed the bushing as per the instructions that came with it. The yoke will turn when it's about half way into the torque tube, but after that, it does not turn. I don't want to have the trunnion yoke turned on a lathe unless that is my only option. Any ideas or suggestions?

Maybe hone the bushing? I am guessing it crushed when installing.

I didnt think those bushings were that tight but could be though there may be a burr on the leading edge of the bush but he wont be able to hone the bush as the driveshaft will be there unless he wraps some wet and dry sandpaper on a piece of pie nearly the correct size.
Tony

Might have to repeat the bushing removal process. I would NOT machine the yoke. If you do remove the bushing and still have the old one measure to see if they are the same. From reading the post above I believe the torque tube was removed so possibly it can be moved forward enough to hone the bushing.

This is a bit of a dilemma. I am not sure I would be comfortable trying to ream or hone or remove any material from the bushing with it in place in the torque tube.

I would be concerned with what happens to the removed material. Does it go down the tube to the rear axle?

I would also be concerned that you could damage the seal.

I agree that the next step is to determine the amount of interference.

I do not have machinist skills but I would be tempted to put the yoke in the freezer and then see if it went in further, The risk here is having it get stuck.

I think I have solved my problem, but I want to take the car for a ride before I consider it fixed. I would like to check the amount of gear oil left in the transmission as well as the rear axle. How much gear oil should I add to the driven gear in the transmission? In the repair manual, the correct amount is 1/2 pint. but that is for a fully serviced transmission. Does that fill area connect to the main reservoir or are there two separate reservoirs? Thanks

The spedo gear area automatcaly refills from the transmission. Just make the trans. over full.

Thanks Gene.

Hawkeye,

It is normal for the transmission oil to flow to the differential. Just bread it off by loosing one of the bottom bolts in the differential and let it drain off until you can just touch the top of the oil with a bent finger.

Oil (cold, warm or hot) entering the front of the torque tube is going to travel down hill to the differential eventually. Accordingly, you're never going to completely stop it - just slow it up for a short time. A new seal will slow it up for a short period but not for very long. Merely draining some off now and then is much easier solution than changing the seal and bushing or fitting an Okey bushing/seal in the front of the torque tube.

Best,

Charlie

It is not normal for the transmission gear oil to flow to the differential. Even with cars with Power Glide the thin ATF does not flow back to the differenial if the drive shaft seal is working.
It is normal for the gear oil or ATF to fill the U joint ball for U joint lubrication.

I took the yoke and locked it into my bench vice. I took some 60 grit emery cloth and "sanded" the yoke in a shoe shine motion. After three times, the yoke fit into the tube just fine. I cleaned, polished and greased the yoke and installed it. I assembled the trunnion bearings, assemble the ball housing, filled the transmission with gear oil and took the car for a ride. Car rode just fine with no noises and no heat. I look back and laugh because the oakie bushing package states "can be installed in 1 hour". I have just about 20 hours invested in this project.

Truth in advertising! I bet the Oakie bushing itself can be installed in an hour…after everything is apart and you have access to the tube. And of course you have to put it all back together!