Hi guys, ok,engine all clean,pan clean and ready to go ----next question is,at this point what is best oil to use in the future ?? Detergent? Non detergent?> Synthetic oil ?? Also what weight would you recommend for summer use,as I do not take it out in the winter months,only start and run for 15 minutes weekly.
Starting every week and running for 15 minutes is the WORST thing you can do, especally in cold weather. Best is to not start it in winter unless you drive it on the road for at least 30 minutes. Each tme you start the engine and it runs cold gas is getting past the rings and getting into the oil - which never gets hot enough to burn of the gas,,,,,,,,,,,,not to mention the condensation. Also nothng wrong with full or semi-synthetic oils other than the price and conventional oils perfectly good..
Many many years ago it was determined that low cylinder wall temperatures resulted in wear rates many times the normal wear rate of a warmed up engine. It was determined at that time that every cold start caused the same amount of wear as several hundred miles of normal driving. Much of that wear was said to be due to corrosion occurring on cool cylinder walls due to condensation.
Synthetic oils have several advantages, one of which is a higher viscosity index, meaning they can be thinner at start up temps while maintaining viscosity at operating temps. That means better start up lubrication.
I've personally never used anything that was heavier than an SAE 20 rating at operating temps (210 degrees F) in any dipper lubricated Chev. Our new vehicles are calling for 0W-20 viscosity, so it's easy to keep it simple as you say above and just use the same oil in old dipper lubed Chevs.
Your choice of course... but keeping it simple does have advantages. :-)
WOW,you guys are the total bomb!! I am truly grateful for the schooling you are giving me here !! So,if I am understanding you guys correctly,either 10W30 or 0W20 semi synthetic oil will do the trick !! And no more running for 15 minutes,either leave it shut off or drive it for 30 minutes ----GOT IT !! Thank you all for all your help....
While the 0w20 oil will work I consider it to be too thin to lube an older engine properly when the engine warms up. The modern engines are built with tighter clearances and the 10w30 wont fit even under the higher pressure. Tony
Before I do something really stupid,after dropping the oil pan cleaning and replacing it,do I simply refill with 5 qts of 10W30,crank it over a few times to circulate oil then fire it up and go or is there a step I am not aware of ?? Don't want to fry it now after all this work !!
If you want to be as prepared as possible. Mark the exact position of the distributor rotor on the housing and the housing on the block (do NOT try to rotate the engine!). Remove the distributor noting whether there is a washer (spacer to lift the distributor shaft off the housing) down the hole. Chuck up a rod with one end matching the bottom of the distributor shaft and turn slowly with a drill. Have the BOSS check the oil gauge to see if it moves when you speed up the drill (hopefully gives her some pride in helping if not go to the next step). Remove the valve cover and see if oil is being pumped to the rocker shafts. Once everything has been oiled you are ready to replace the distributor and start the engine. The main bearing reservoirs will have been filled before the end rockers are oiled.
Well ok Chipper !! This should be interesting as I have never removed a distributor and am nervous as a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs!! Just hope I do not open me up a can of you know what,but,press on regardless. Now I need to figure out how to remove the distributor ---LOL !!
I fully understand the reluctance. I had it the first time I did it. As long as you accurately mark the distributor and put it back without the engine turning all will be fine.
To remove the distributor, remove the screw with the spring on the plate clamped below the distributor housing. You will also need to remove the spark cable from the plate. When removing the distributor you should see that the rotor turns counterclockwise. If you note the amount it moves it will help when putting it back. Also note the position of the bottom end of the distributor shaft it needs to match up with the oil pump shaft when putting back together. If you have a good light you should be able to see the position of the oil pump shaft in the bottom of the hole. Putting it back in that position when finished priming the oiling system will help in reinstalling the distributor. When it all aligns the plate on the distributor will be back in the position just barely above the machined surface on the block and the screw with spring will fit nicely.
Well that makes me feel better Chipper,it sounds pretty straightforward !! My wife said "Don't let the challenge blow your skirt up dear!" Well,you guys have never steered me wrong yet so here goes. Cover me,I'm goin in.....
i made a custom rod tool for priming the engine, before that i used a dowel rod, yeah wooden !!
first time is a little scary, then after that is not so bad. learned how to set the timing, set distributor, find TDB, etc... all part of the fun of learning these old Chevrolets.
Few pictures of the tool i made, and end view of the Oil pump. the round end of hte tool fits in my little 12v cordless drill, the slotted end mates up to the oil pump shaft. I put a little grease/oil on the toll so it goes in smoothly and does no harm.
found a few pictures of when i used hte tool and set it up to the pump
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
Sorry Tony, but that is an old misconception. Old dipper engines were built to TIGHTER clearances than modern engines. Rods were commonly fitted so tight it took a light tap with a small ball peen hammer to move them sideways on the crank. Adding one .002" shim on one side of the rod (adding only .001" clearance) was all it took to make the rod slide freely on the crank and was considered too loose. Mains were run a little looser. You remove shims until there is some drag, then add one shim on one side, alternating until the bearing just runs free.
What this means is: Rod bearing clearance is .001" MAX. Main bearing clearance is right around .0015"
How many modern engines run that tight? You can get away with clearance that tight with the older softer high lead babbit bearings. You will not get away with it with modern engines.
As for viscosity... By the 1940's Chev had learned that anything heavier than an SAE 20 was unnecessary and was quite adamant about using lighter oils. They ran tests on their proving tracks with straight SAE 10W in cars run hot at 80 miles per hour continuously and found no adverse effects. Doug Bell (an original member of the VCCA) ran nothing but SAE 10W year round in his 1931 Chev. And I believe he lived in the sunny south.
It's almost impossible to hurt a dipper oiled Chev with oil too light.
PS Hope you don't take offense to my post. Just wanted to clear up the clearances thing as I've read this on other sites as well and it just ain't so. 😉
WOW,so I just went and purchased 5qts of 10W30 ----which I have always used in this car in the past---- so, my goal here is to use the best oil for this engine that is available today.I understand that there are differing opinions on the subject and as stated before,any of them are light years better than the oils of 1931. I guess I just go with the 10W30 unless that is not a good choice. I do not drive long distances,I do not drive over50mph, I may put 500 miles on in a season, I change oil every other year so is 10W30 my go to oil?? Thanks to all for your guidance...
Jay32249, 10W-30 is not a problem in your 1931. It is basically a 10 weight oil with viscosity improves to flow like a straight 30 weight in high temperature conditions. Though synthetic or synthetic blend oils may have some advantages over mineral oils it is not that significant with the low annual mileage and recommendation to change the oil each fall regardless of number of driven miles in the past year.
Don’t overthink the oil choice. Our Vice-president of Engineering used to say that we had a lot more trouble with customers who did not put oil in their engines compared to those who did not use the exact recommended oil.
Most of us will never put enough miles on these classic cars to wear them out.
Did you have the pan off or are you just changing oil?
If you had the pan off you can remove the spark lugs and spin the engine over with the starter for about 30 seconds. This will get the oil moving with out toching the distributor.
I made a similar tool for my 35 big bolt. For some reason it won’t prime after I change the oil. Every time I have to remove the distributor and spin the pump with a drill. You will feel the drill labor down when it primes. I’m hoping I have a cracked pump case or something I can remedy. Probably the same reason I have to run it a quart over on oil or it doesn’t keep prime.
Stovblt, no offence taken. All the pre 1980 engines that I have rebuilt with slipper bearings recommend <.002" oil clearance and at .004 there often is a hearable rattle. When I rebuilt the engine in my 38 I was happy with .001" - .0015" dry then assembled with a non drying lube but havent attempted to start it yet. I probably should start it and get oil through the system. Tony
Thanks for that Tony. 🙂 I was going by Chevrolet's own literature, both new specifications and overhaul manual methods for the original style "centrifugally spun in" babbit. And of course by the way I've adjusted them myself in the past.
This really is the best and most civil Chev forum around. I read others as well, but this is the only one I choose to participate in.
Quick question Tony... By slipper bearings you are meaning insert style bearings? If so... then yes you are right, you will need the extra clearance you went with.
Thanks all---I think I will try Chev Nut suggestion first. If I don't get oil moving I will move on to the distributor option! (Or maybe Chippers idea of letting the wifey do it !! LOL )
Stovblt yes slipper and removable insert bearings are the same. They are often a steel backing with a copper bonding agent then a very thin coating of white metal. While they have a good oil supply they rend to wear better but are generally not adjustable. Tony
Hi guys,as per ChevNuts advice,after replacing sterile oil pan,gaskets ,corks,5qts 10-30,I removed the plugs and cranked the motor for about 40 seconds and the oil gauge went from 0 to 5---so I stopped at that point.That kind of gave me the feeling the oil pump is working---I did this with the valve cover off ...I do not see any oil coming out anywhere along the rocker arm assembly or anywhere else.Before I turned over the motor I gave each cyl. a squirt of Marvel Mystry Oil to be safe. Now,behind the carb is a copper tube with a nut and ferrule fitting that goes up into the block,so,I loosened the nut and ferrule,had my buddy crank it a few times (plugs are back in now) and there was oil pulsating out of that loose fitting indicating to me the pump seems to be pumping .Should I not be seeing oil pumping out somewhere around the rocker arm assembly---I got nothing up there at all. Thanks for walking me thru these baby steps fellas...Jay
It will take much longer running the oil pump to get oil all the way up to the rocker arms. If you turn the engine over for 20-30 seconds five or more times (with starter cool down time in between) you should see oil dripping from the center rockers and then finally reaching no. 1 and no. 6. It is critical to fill the reservoirs that oil the main bearings before running the engine. I prefer to make sure all rotating parts have oil before the engine is started.
Thanks Chipper---when you say "fill the reservoirs" that oil the main bearings,that is simply a matter of cranking the engine,without actually starting it until I get oil flowing everywhere,is that correct? Thank you again..
Pull the spark plugs before you crank it. It'll take nearly all the load off of the starter. It'll crank faster which will get oil to where it needs to go faster, won't over heat the starter as quickly and take away any chance of accidental startup.
VCCA Member 43216 Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. 1938 HB Business Coupe 1953 210 Sedan
Good morning everyone,Today I cranked the motor over with plugs removed for 30-40 seconds,waited 5 minutes,repeated ---I did that 6 times and finally got about 6 drops of oil dripping from where the two rocker assemblies join in the middle....no sign of any oil at either #1 or #6 cyl. I have no idea as to how much oil should be coming out of the rocker assembly but something tells me there should be more than a few drops ! Can you fellas give me an idea of what the flow should look like? The oil pressure gauge moves from 0 to about 4lbs when cranking. Also,I notice there is ONE push rod that is really big---twice the diameter of all the rest and it has a raised "0" cast on it ?? Is that normal or is it possibly a replacement?? Thank you all for your wonderful help and being so patient with the rookie !!
As Chipper pointed out above, it will take quite a bit of cranking just to get oil to show at the center of the rocker arm assembly. The fact that you have ANY oil up there while cranking with the starter suggests to me that you are ready to go. And 4 psi while cranking a 1931 engine sounds like lots of oil pump flow. Especially if you still have the original style vane pump.
Oil should reach all of the rocker arms once you have the engine started and running.
