|
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5
Grease Monkey
|
OP
Grease Monkey
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5 |
Hi I'm new to this board, and I have a problem, I am not knowledgeable enough about the electrical system on my '72 Chev. c20 custom camper. It is presently not charging on the guage in the cluster, I don't know if the original alternator has ever been changed but there is a regulator on the rad support. I would like to change the charging system to a 1 wire and get rid of the regulator. Could someone out there help me out. Thanks
grease monkey, my foot
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 980
ChatMaster - 750
|
ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 980 |
Does the battery stay charged? What is the battery voltage with the engine off vs. the battery voltage when the engine is running? The system voltage with a fully charged battery, headlights on and engine running should be about 14 volts.
If you have old Chevrolets, other old Chevrolets will find out where you live.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 814 Likes: 1
ChatMaster - 750
|
ChatMaster - 750
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 814 Likes: 1 |
Post Preview Hello excssnrgy... If you want to change over to a one wire system , you will need to get a later model alternator that has the self-contained voltage regulator. You will also need the connector that plugs into the newer style alternator with its jumper wire that goes from the regulator to the "Bat" terminal on the alternator. Take the connector off of the regulator that is on your radiator support and remove the wire that is marked "Bat or B+". This will connect to the "Bat" terminal on the rear of the new alternator. Next remove the wire that is marked "F". This is your Alternator field wire. This goes to the new connector terminal that is marked "F". You will have to change the terminal connectors on the old "Bat" and "F" wires. If you have a problem trying to tell which wire is which; take a 12 volt test light and find the hot wire with the key off. This is your "Bat' terminal. Your field wire will be a thin wire that is hot with the key on. If your field wire isn't hot with the key on then stop and find out why. Your test light might glow dim and your idiot light on the dash may glow dim too. Blown fuse, broken or loose wire etc.could be your problem. Good luck ...
Steve
Steve '25 Superior "K", '79 Corvette , '72 Corvette LT-1 & 1965 Corvette Coupe
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5
Grease Monkey
|
OP
Grease Monkey
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5 |
thanks Steve, I appreciate the come back, and the information, I will print it out and keep it while I do the work on this old truck. I have a few friends that are mechanics, but they don't have the time to help me out. So thanks again. I will let you know when I have it working right. Take care . Andre/excssnrgy
grease monkey, my foot
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,467 Likes: 48
ChatMaster - 3,000
|
ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,467 Likes: 48 |
The internal regulated Delco alternator is a great piece of equipment. Likewise the original system on your truck is no slouch. I have personally driven 1971 and 1972 Chevy pickups (one each) about 250,000 miles and only replaced one alternator and possibly one regulator. I would not go to the trouble of changing if it were me. If your original wiring harness is intact and in good condition, I would especially not want to make the change. Mike
ml.russell1936@gmail.com
Many miles of happy motoring
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,848
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
|
Tech Advisor ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 29,848 |
The Mangy Old Mutt
"If It's Not Junk.....It's Not Treasure!"
|
|
|
1 members (swedechev),
78
guests, and
15
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
Forums58
Topics59,072
Posts429,077
Members18,308
|
Most Online1,133 Jan 22nd, 2020
|
|
|
|