VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Electrical - 6 volt battery storage

Hi;

This might be an old question. Anyway here it goes.

What are your tips for getting more life out of a "run of the mill" (read cheap) 6volt, when its out of thr car?

I plan on keeping it indoors for the winter. Should I charge it on occasion. A friend once told me to keep it on trickle charge unit the spring...(?)

RGwiz... <img border="0" alt="[twix]" title="" src="graemlins/twix.gif" />

A run of the mill (read cheap) battery trickle charger then you will overcharge the battery if you keep it hooked up. Overcharging will harm the battery as much as undercharge.

If you have one of the newer battery tenders that have circuitry that shuts off the charger when max. charged, then works the battery then keeping it hooked up is not a problem. Make sure that the battery is isolated from a ground or damp environment. It will speed loss of charge. A warm dry environment is best.

Make sure that the water level is maintained and you only use distilled or de-ionized water.

You can monitor the voltage with a VOM, specific gravity with hydrometer or refractive index tester. These will indicate level of charge. It does not hurt a battery to some of 1/3 of its charge every so often as long as it is brought back to full charge relatively often. If you discharge more than 50% it will reduce life and if nearly 100% is a death sentence.

I think he said "Charge it up every once in a while!" or" hook it up to a float charger or a battery tender" ?....or maybe words to that effect, Right?

Yep.

Someone told me to never put any battery on a concrete floor, put it on a piece of wood. :rolleyes: Don't know if it is a urban myth or not. :confused:

The piece of wood works for me.

I have had batteries sitting on the garage floor for a year and hold their charge.From what I have read it is an old wives tale that the battery will be discharged by sitting on concrete.This also goes back to the old days when the cells were connected by the exposed lead straps on top of the battery>>>many have forgotten about these or never seen these.On the exposed connector batteries you were instructed to keep the top of the battery clean to avoid discharge due to drain caused by moisture accumlating in the "dirt" causing an eletrical path between the connectors that would discharge the battery.Perhaps this could also discharge an old design battery if it were on a damp surface. Modern batteries are completely sealed and this will not occur according to the according to the article that I read.Also if you read the Chevrolet shop manuals they give instructions for battery storage ,checking specific gravity ,rotating stock on new batteries etc. but never mention about storing the on a cement floor......For the last 30+ years I store my batteries by driving the car into the garage in fall (with battery fully charged) do nothing but go out in spring and crank it over and drive away.My batteries have always gone at least 7 years with no problem and at that time I replace the battery just to be safe.On my 12 volt cars I have installed disconnect switches in the last few years.I find that if the battery stays up all winter and has enough charge to crank over the engine long enough to fill the carb. with gas in th spring the battery is still healthy.My winter storage is always at least 6 months or more.I not saying everyone should do as I do but it has been sucessful for me.

:)

Hey thanks guys. Dad always said not to store a battery on the concrete floor. Wives tale or not, I usually put it on a plywood shelf.
The battery tender is a good idea. Do anyone know if Sear's has them?
My problem is this. I like to start my 32 every few weeks during the winter. Just to keep things sort of fresh. Come to think of it, I love taking it out for a spin on a real cold day. I guess I want to experience what it was like back in 32. My car doesn't have a heater. Anyway, I have to keep the battery fresh, so why not start it up and run it? Even if it means sitting at idle untill she gets to running temperature.
Chevynut says he gets years out of a battery. Man, I can't get more that two years out of mine. That's with the engine turning over mostly on the 3rd or 4th turn.
That brings up another question. On my 36, the first position on the light switch "boosts" the voltage from the generator to the battery for a faster charge. When in that position the voltage goes up 2-4 volts. I don't see that on the 32. If I let it run to running temperature how can I be sure I've charged the battery enough?
This all might sound crazy to some of you guys, but I'm an electrical num-scull. I used to use a battery tester, but they were not accurate, and leaked all over.
:confused:

I've used the "floating" battery chargers for about 4 years now... they are great! My cars always start even when I leave them for 4 to 6 months. These are DIFFERENT from trickle chargers... they run from $29 to $49. You can find them at most any auto parts stores now.

Here's the web site for the one that I like:
Battery Chargers for Old Chevys
Sure-Charge IV

Now I have three for 6 volt and 1 for 12 volt. I haven't bought a new batter in two years.. not since I got two of the Optima ones.... that's another great success story!!!!
<more info on Optima>

Thanks Mr. Bill... I try that site.

I just found the page in my 32 Engineering Specs that states maximum charging rate, Hot: 12 amps. Voltage 7.7
RPM at max hot charging rate: 1800 or 17 1/2 MPH.
So....I know if The engine is hot (normal operating temp) and the meter reads 7.7 volts, I have run it long enough to fully charge the battery.
Right????? :rolleyes:

That sounds pretty good to me... seems that I've also heard of 7.2 or 7.3 volts as being fully charged, too.

Maybe some other "expert" can check in here with more info.

:eek:

Only thing is we have an ampmeter in the dash....MMMM :rolleyes:
The specs say max. charging rate 12 amps. hot, and max charging rate cold: 17 amps.
I assume hot is operating temp, and cold is...what?
:confused:

The battery should be tested with a hydrometer and the thing your checking is the specific gravity.This should be above 1.250 to be fully charged.Ths will also vary according to te temperture.Shop manuals have more complete info.There is no way to gauge the battery state of charge on cars without a voltage regulator.The gen. will continue to charge even if the bat. is full.The charging rate can be increased on 1934-37 cars by pulling out the light switch 1/2 notch.(not on all Standards)This is controlled by a resistance unit on the light switch.This was done because higher charging rate generators were used and it was a way of reducing the charging rate thru the resistor when taking long trips etc.Running the engine every few weeks with out driving the car is worse for the engine than standing idle.The condensation that you are causing in the engine can not be removed by the crankcase vent. system while the car is standing still.The exhaust system is also collecting water which includes acids that find their way i to the engine.The best is either to drive the car for at least a half an hour to completely warm it up or not run it at all.I know when I first started in the hobby it was great just to go out and and hear the engine run but thats not in the best intrest of the engine. Also you are possibly taking more out of the battery by doing this than you are replacing by running the engine for a short time.

The hot and cold that they are talking about refers to generator temp.If you notice when you first run the engine (at speed) the ampmeter will read a little higher than after a half hour or so.Also at high speed the charging rate will decrease with the three brush generator.Thats like over 60 MPH> This is normal.

Yeah, like old Gene says if you are going to start it up please drive it around and let the folks in town know that old Chevys run in any weather, well most any weather we encounter here in Central Texas. just a word of caution, a cold, cold start is the perfect time for the fiber timeing gear to give up the goast! I know, I been there, dunn that, on my 261 truck engine.....

The higher generator charging rate also is activated on the 1934-36 models when the headlights are on as well.

I have been using the Battery Minder (1- 6 volt, 1- 12volt) for 2 years now. Hook 'em up and forget them until you need them. They are GREAT! My batteries are like new. Check them out at www.vdcelectronics.com