VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc 1932 clutch

I have had my 32 Chevrolet for a few months, so still a lot to learn.

Main problem now is that clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor.
As I see it, I only have these 2 adjusting screws, is that correct?


This plate seems very uneven at the end with red line.
When adjusting screw is all in, it doesn`t go to center of axel.
Is this the correct part, or is it modified part from other year/car?


Would a worn out clutch dish, make pedal go all way to the floor, or is it more likely a problem with clutch pressure plate?

I live in Denmark in northern europe, and here ain`t many thirties Chevrolets, so can`t easily get parts, or just find some parts to compare with, so need help to come closer to problem.
I hope to remove the gearbox within the next week or 2.

Morten
Welcome to Chatter
I am not familiar with the 32 clutch linkage but I would be either replacing the part in the picture or repairing the 1 you have. Others may correct me but I think that hole is badly worn towards the red marker. The part near the adjuster bolt would be the original and could be used to locate the correct centre.
Tony

Based on the photo, it looks like someone purposely ground out part of the adjustment plate (by the red line). My guess is that the throwout bearing or clutch plate or both were worn so in order to drive the car they allowed more movement of the arm. It will be necessary to remove the transmission to replace either or both of those parts. While doing that it is best to also surface the pressure plate and flywheel. At that time I would also check the universal joint, replace the ball housing (part between transmission and torque tube) seals and shims and check the propeller (drive) shaft bushing and seal. There is a modern replacement throwout bearing that many have used successfully. The parts are available in the U.S. at the Filling Station. The machine work to surface the pressure plate and flywheel can be done locally.

Chipper can you advise the vendor and/or part number of the replacement bearing. I am not aware of one that fits a 32. Thanks.

My understanding is the '38-'66 bearing can be used with the '38 transmission front bearing housing on the '32-'37 Chevys. Since I have never done it can't actually verify it. A VCCA member in Minnesota (Verlyn) has done a lot of tinkering in that area. Also checking with Steve at the Filling Station will either verify or refute this.

If I am wrong a replacement carbon bearing is available.

This is also my best guess, propably done because it`s hard to get parts locally. Just supprised they could add so much extra movement without parts breaking down. Glad it seems to be the correct parts, then just need to find the worn/bad parts.
Hope to have it apart soon.

Almost got the transmission out today, but can`t get it the last inch back.
The bottom is all back so it hits the chassis crossmember, in top I removed a cover, but it`s now back to edge of floor.
Only solution I can see now, is to remove seats and floor, but should it be necessary?

If you rotate the transmission ~ 90 deg. it will go back enough to clear. Been too many years since I removed a '32 transmission to be more specific.

You were right, about 90 deg and it came out.

Here are the parts I removed, besides being well used, do they look original to a 1932?

I learned about the 90 deg rotation about 50 years ago when helping a fellow VCCA member remove the transmission from a low mileage '32 Special Sedan. Used it again when had to tighten the flywheel bolts in a friends '32 Coupe.

Yes they all look like well worn original '32 Chevy parts. The '32 clutch plate was the first to use the springs to lessen the tendency to chatter when being wedged between the pressure plate and flywheel. Last time I talked to Bill at Billy Possum parts he mentioned they now had '32 clutch plates in inventory. If those are anything close to the earlier year reproductions they will be fantastic. Will see Verlyn in about 10 days and will ask about replacement '32 throwout bearings. Might need some myself as I have 3 '32s to get on the road.

You might also be able to use a sprung hub clutch plate out of a 1938 Chev if you get stuck.Got one fitted in my '28 1 ton truck.

Looking at the clutch plate it appears either the flywheel and or pressure plate are dished. I would have both machined flat and replace the facings before reassembly.
Tony

Morten,

Is the large cover device in the second picture down in good shape?

If you need one then let me know. I think I have a NOS one. Free if you just pay cost of shipping. Anticipate high shipping cost owing to weight of the part.

Good luck with fixing all that stuff.

Best,

Charlie

Thanks Charlie, but mine is fine, just need cleaning.

I found a throwout bearing locally, seller also had a NOS clutch plate and we compaired it with mine.
Mine has almost original measurements, so I`ll keep it.

Just need to remove flywheel, then I`ll send it with pressure plate to be machined.
Unfortunately I have to leave home for some weeks for work, so will take a while before it`s running again.

If they (flywheel and clutch) are going to the machine shop it might be a good idea to have them balanced.

Are away from my car and manuals these days, so can`t check myself.
Will I need a puller to remove flywheel, and if yes, how should it look like?

A puller is not necessary. Might need to tap on the outer edge to get to move.

I would mark the flywheel position in relation to the crankshaft (I think it will fit in any of the 4 positions available) or you may have trouble doing the ignition timing in the future.
Tony

The flywheel has the 4 bolt holes in it,plus another hole for the dowel pin that's pressed into the flange on the end of the crankshaft,so it'll only go on in one position.

Be careful as you remove the flywheel. It is a tight fit on the dowel pin so it will take some force to remove it.

The technique I use is to remove 2 bolts completely and back the remaining 2 out quite a few turns. Then I use 2 long screwdrivers as levers (not the proper use of a screwdriver) opposite each other to pry the flywheel away from the back of the engine block.

This way the flywheel will not pop off and drop on the ground after it clears the dowel pin.

Did send parts to local garage specialized in vintage cars.








All was installed a month ago, and all seemed good.
But now I can see (and hear) that the throwout bearing isn`t centered.
When I had it all a part I couldn`t get the fork stud/ball locally, so just reused the old part.
As I see it now, the fork and throwout bearing is only centered by this stud/ball and connection to clutchpedal.
Is the ball part screwed to the stud at the green line, or are the just touching?
I can`t recall how it was when I took it apart months ago, but think I unscrewed it in some way.
As you might see in last picture there isn`t any thread on my original ball part.

It looks from the picture that the smaller threaded end of the bolt is broken off and stuck in the ball end. That will allow the clutch fork to move around which is NOT good.

Looks like the machine shop did a very good job on the flywheel and pressure plate.

Morten,
I can send you a new ball and screw for no charge. Send me an address. I don't know how long it will take to get there but If I don't ship before Wednesday February 5, It will be 2 weeks before I can send it.

Mike

Thanks Chipper, that confirm whay I feared had happend.
If anybody have a picture showing the parts unscrewed I would like to see it.

Thanks Mike very kind of you. I`ll send you PM.

I encourage you to take some time and try to determine what failed and why. My concern is that if you just install new ball stud and put it all back together you might get the same result.