Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#42882 06/24/04 09:27 PM
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For babbitting try Harts Machine service, Cecil, Ohio 419 399 4777 Randy


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#42883 06/28/04 11:56 AM
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Update...I got the rods back from the Babbit Pot, and they look great. So far everything fits fine per the measurements I gave. I do have one connecting bolt that is a bit worn and is stripping the castle nuts. I ordered new nuts from Obsolete Chevrolet (for replacement and backup), but I don't see anybody who offers the bolts. Suggestions?

#42884 06/28/04 02:26 PM
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The connecting rod bolts are the same for 6 cyls. up to 1962.They are available from Chevs of the 40's with nut for $5.50 each.Sure they are available cheaper from other sorces.My suggestion would be to replace all the bolts and nuts with the newer non castel style and pal nuts - but not for that price.I have some good spares if you need one or two.


Gene Schneider
#42885 06/28/04 09:22 PM
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That's great, Gene. Who knew anything from the 40's would fit 1932. bigl I think I would want to replace all of them straight up for peace of mind. I'll put that order in tonight!

#42886 07/03/04 09:33 AM
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I got the connecting bolts and nuts, and they are similar to the '32 except the head has a bit of a "wing tip" to it (where the '32 bolt has literally a half head)and the length is about 1/4" longer. I figured I can grind the "wing tip" down to make it fit, and I don't see any issue with having a longer bolt.

> I take it that this non-castle nut has a different way of staying secure instead of being held by a cotter pin?
> There shouldn't be problem with using them the way I described, right?

#42887 07/03/04 09:43 AM
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The " non-castel nut" requires a pal nut to secure.Some real modern versions used a self locking nut.The pal nut is a stamped tin nut.The extra length will be no problem--just turn over the engine and check to see that there is proper clearence--I used them in my '34 with no problem.How many new bolts are you using?


Gene Schneider
#42888 07/03/04 02:07 PM
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As listed in the catalog, the bolts come with matching nuts - I'd assume these are the pal nuts?

I will use at least one - I ordered six in case I run into other stripped bolts. I figured I don't need to replace all of them, but the no. 5 and 6 rods may need replacement. There's no problem with the fractional increase in weight, right?

#42889 07/03/04 03:28 PM
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Let me know how many locking tin pal nuts you will need and I will mail them tom you N.C. or you may find them in a hardware storenunder jamb nuts,locking nuts or?The idea of the nut it to jam into the thread of the rod nut to prevent it from loosening.

Balance- Just weigh six connecting rods-you will find no two the same weight - and it can very by a consideral amount if various replacements have been installed over the years.When the engine was assembeled they selected 6 rods of about the same weight and that was balanced??


Gene Schneider
#42890 07/05/04 05:56 PM
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Gene - Thanks so much for the offer. I actually ordered a handful of those pal nuts from Obsolete Chevrolet (they really do have "PAL" stamped on the side!)

I used one of them today - if I did it correctly, I tightened it onto the nut to the point where it expanded itself onto the top of the nut, and the teeth seated itself into the bolt threads.

At the danger of throwing the thread off a different direction, I smiled at your last reply. I was contemplating just babbitting or replacing the two knocking rods I had, but it was reinforced in this forum that I was risking having different rod weights in the motor. Personally, I agree with your statement as a general thought - certainly if one is going to do a rebuild to the best results, it makes sense to eliminate as much variances as possible.

As a general update overall - I put all the rods back in. I kept spot checking my clearances as I had provided to the Babbit Pot, and everything seemed to fit okay. I'll put the heads, manifold, etc. back on this week and do a test start up sometime soon. Just wanted to provide an affirmative report from anyone following this thread about babbitting services.

#42891 08/09/04 08:41 PM
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Well, after some careful assembly throughout July and some extra fuel system work, I got it started and running. Seems to be doing quite fine! I've never heard my motor sound so smooth before.
Sooo...I can give the Babbit Pot a thumbs up on the workmanship. bigl

#42892 08/09/04 10:22 PM
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I found these shims at my local NAPA store in nearby Antioch, IL.

#42893 08/11/04 02:58 PM
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Ed, you might want to give the 'Babbit Pot' a thumbs up in the "vendor" section here on Chatter for other to see.

I think I will use "BP" when I get to that point in my restoration.

Thanks for the information.

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