Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#417730 11/19/18 12:28 PM
Joined: Nov 2018
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 1
hi..new in this forum n site..so i bought this 46 styline after selling my 60 bel air..am ready to play with it but got couple questions..first of all am budget enthusiast..so am trying to disassemble the whole front end to wrk on the engine well freely, am trying to figure out a way to install disc brakes, for which need to adapt a individual pedal..my car is manual by the way..so..any suggestions..advice..anything.??.dont know how to post a pic..sorry

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I think the Filling Station and Chevy's of the forties sell conversion kits for disc brakes.

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There are a few people on this site who also do work like this on older Chevy's. You might get more responses if you post your questions in the "Personalized Modifications" forum.

As noted there are multiple sources for brake conversion parts. I might suggest that you should consider getting the car running as is and determine if the disc brake conversion is needed. If will be less expensive to get the original brakes working well compared to a full disc brake conversion ($1500 -$2000 for parts). Plus it is tricky to mount the larger master cylinder under the floor and keep the floor mounted clutch pedal. Most of the street rod conversions you see are using an automatic transmission so there is no clutch pedal.

Just so you are aware, many of us drive these cars frequently and in traffic with the original brakes and have no problems. If you can lock the tires and slide them that is all the braking power you will get regardless of the type of brake.


Rusty

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I use the original brakes on my two 1936's. The 1/2 ton Commercial Truck (pickup) and the Standard, Town Sedan both can lock up and slide. Both stop just as well as the present day vehicles I am following. At speeds over 45 M.P.H. I do have to have extra distance. It is not wise to drive these vehicles on the Inter State due to their airflow design at speeds faster than 55 M. P. H. That is not to say that they will not go faster than 55 M. P. H. What I am saying is you are pushing toward exceeding engineering body design. The difference then has to be made up by the driver's skill. Just how much skill at driving this type of car/truck varies greatly on the individual. I would not want to leave it to chance and mess up a priceless (considering the amount of time invested) antique vehicle.


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