Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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#388509 04/30/17 06:04 AM
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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On my 23 roadster, the ignition switch has developed a glitch.
The light stays on when the switch is in the off position, and the battery goes flat in a short time with the switch in on or off positions.
Hitch up some charge, and the car fires up easily with switch in the on position.
Any ideas?

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23Chevvy #388515 04/30/17 10:06 AM
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23Chevvy; did you do any work on the ignition switch or did this just happen? Sounds like a crossed wire or an internal switch problem.


Steve
'25 Superior "K", '79 Corvette , '72 Corvette LT-1 & 1965 Corvette Coupe
23Chevvy #388522 04/30/17 01:43 PM
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Hi
Thanks for the reply.
I haven't done any work- I suspect a problem has developed with the switch itself.
I don't have a clue what the innards of it are like, but I'm guessing its not hugely complicated?
Maybe I will take out the switch panel and check it over.

23Chevvy #388536 04/30/17 07:35 PM
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For some time my 28 used to cut out. Took me ages to realise that it was a result of hitting a bump that affected the ignition switch. I simply bought a new switch and bypassed the old. I suppose I could dismantle the old one and check it over but it is linked to the steering lock so I left it.

23Chevvy #388538 04/30/17 07:59 PM
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It is common for the contacts in those old switches to burn or corrode or both. I have taken them apart cleaned contacts only to have them fail sometime later.

Most of us running four cylinder Chevys use a toggle or other modern switch instead of the originals.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
Chipper #388560 05/01/17 04:34 AM
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My ignition switch was cutting out from time to time

I wanted to save my ignition switch as in a 28 its part of the steering lock.

Pulled it apart, cleaned the brass floating contacts and put a dab of solder on all the fixed brass contacts.

That was over 20 years ago and has been ok since.

Regards

Ray


Some say "Street is neat". I prefer "1928 is great"

I have documented my 45 years with a 1928 Chev Tourer, from 1973 to 2018, and regulary add other items that I hope are of interest to others. Your comments are most welcome.The story of the Red Chev can be viewed at http://my28chev.blogspot.com/
23Chevvy #388576 05/01/17 11:50 AM
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Thanks everyone- good tips to work on.
Will check the contacts, and build up with solder if required.

Chipper #391238 06/25/17 03:15 PM
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Quote
It is common for the contacts in those old switches to burn or corrode or both. I have taken them apart cleaned contacts only to have them fail sometime later. Most of us running four cylinder Chevys use a toggle or other modern switch instead of the originals.

I am experiencing a similar problem with my lighting/ignition switch.I have power to the switch but cant get power from it no matter what position it is in (to lights or starter). The wiring through out was in rough condition with many bare wires. I replaced the wiring harness but it didnt solve the problem.
what brand of type of MODERN switch would you recommend? and how did you mount it?
Also I switched the battery cable to a modern cable because the plastic covering was worn away in areas. I got a 4 gauge cable, do you think that will work ok?


Barbj #391240 06/25/17 04:40 PM
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Hi All,

Why go to the effort of removing an original part when you can repair the existing one. Spend an hour or two, I did and have had no trouble since.

Regards

Ray


Some say "Street is neat". I prefer "1928 is great"

I have documented my 45 years with a 1928 Chev Tourer, from 1973 to 2018, and regulary add other items that I hope are of interest to others. Your comments are most welcome.The story of the Red Chev can be viewed at http://my28chev.blogspot.com/
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Id love to be able to fix it. I can hardly even squeeze under the dash to see it and cant tell how to get it out. How did you get it out?
Thanks,
Barb

Barbj #391247 06/25/17 05:55 PM
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Hi Barb,

There are 2 screws that hold the switch to the steering lock, and I used a mirror, a light and assorted length screw drivers to get to it.

A larger mirror that you can position on the floor at the right angle is easier that trying to hold one.

Regards

Ray


Last edited by 1928isgreat; 06/25/17 05:57 PM.

Some say "Street is neat". I prefer "1928 is great"

I have documented my 45 years with a 1928 Chev Tourer, from 1973 to 2018, and regulary add other items that I hope are of interest to others. Your comments are most welcome.The story of the Red Chev can be viewed at http://my28chev.blogspot.com/
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My ignition is not hooked up to a steering lock as many here have mentioned. It is in the center of the lighting switch. I used the mirror as suggested and it appears to be held in the dash with tabs?
Does anyone have a diagram or picture of just the lighting switch wire placement? I have a wiring diagram for a 1927 AA which is similar enough to give me an idea for the trucks wiring, but the lighting switch is not well documented.

Barbj #391263 06/26/17 12:12 AM
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Barb,
On my 28 sedan, I removed the original switch and carefully bent two tabs just enough to remove the cover. Pay attention to the parts inside and their orientation.
There are two tabs (with brass screws for the ignition wire) riveted to the cover. My tabs were loose (could be rotated slightly) so I soldered them to the rivets. Inside, the contacts should be clean, shiny and, if not, use very fine emery cloth to remove any tarnish. I then used bulb grease to generously coat all inner contacts so the switch rotation has minimal friction and the contacts are electrically excellent. The key is solid contact of the 2 tabs by soldering to the rivets. I use only modern solder for electronic type circuitry.
I replaced the ignition switch screws with new brass screws, and replaced all other old screws in the dashboard switch (and anywhere else in the wiring harness) with new brass screws. I used bulb grease for all screws and contacts everywhere.
Note: The two screws to install the switch back on the steering column fit through the two spacers inside the switch.
On battery cable, I replaced the old + (red) cable with #1 wire and connectors that NAPA auto made up for me at very modest cost. I bolted the negative ground flat wire to the frame that was sanded to bare metal and then coated with bulb grease.
Finally, I used a suitable black battery wire to connect from the negative battery terminal direct to the lower mounting bolt for the starter motor, because on an older vehicle like mine, the frame cannot be trusted to provide a perfect ground throughout the car.
All the best to you as you fire up your car and enjoy driving it. I've just started driving mine and am working to get things smoothed out so I can trust it to take me farther than just down to the corner and back..... Ted

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Very helpful Thank you


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