Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#389820 05/26/17 08:31 AM
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 50
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 50
I finally got around to filling my front shocks on the '41 Master Deluxe with fresh fluid. My driver side shock immediately began to relieve itself of all of its new fluid. The passenger side actually seems to be holding its fluid well. I think I will still replace them as a pair, just so they operate similarly. My question has to do with the link pins. I am preparing to order parts today and I've been thinking about the link pins. Are these wear items? do they typically need replaced? Should I expect any corrosion in there when I take them apart? I'm tempted to replace these while I have them out, but not sure if these typically need replaced. I will be ordering new link pin boots for sure. Your thoughts might save me some time and shipping.


Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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For sure replace the upper pivot pins. They were the fastest wearing part in the front suspension. They also are used to adjust the alignment - which must be done after shock replacement.


Gene Schneider
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 50
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 50
Thank You, I found an NOS set on ebay and ordered them (also got fresh rubber boots from Chevs of the 40s). At least the front end is still removed and I currently have great access to work on the suspension. Now I just have to try and get the alignment as close as possible then find somebody I can trust to complete the alignment. Not sure I can think of a shop near me that would know what to do even with my manual. Need to find an old shop with an old guy to do the work :)

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MM,

Put the camber shims back in. Get the information on the degrees off camber then adjust the upper pin until you get the proper degrees.

Set the toe-in by using two sticks to the back of the widest point between the front - of course - tires. Adjust the tie-rod ens until you have 1/2 inch tow-in. Then take it to a reputable aglingment shop and tell them the specs. They will fine-tune it.

You could go with your own settings. The difference in milage for the set of tires will be about a hundred miles better with the professional alignment job. Well, about that. Agrin

Best,
Charlie computer


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There are no shims involved. The caster and camber are adjusted with the etcentric in the upper pivot pins. This style was also used by Mercedes years back. Give the alignment guy the shop manual where it is well speeled out.


Gene Schneider
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iagree Oops.

Charlie computer

Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 50
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 50
Thanks guys. I am amazed out how close I've got it on my own with a bubble camber gauge. Even with the weight removed from the wheel and the bolts loosened, those allen key link pins are tough to turn! I kept fearing I was going to snap the allen wrench.


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