Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Chev Nut #390860 06/17/17 03:29 PM
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probably around 40-eek

solafide #390862 06/17/17 03:55 PM
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Holy Carp!! That's high. Hope that fixes it for you.


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1938 HB Business Coupe
1953 210 Sedan
Tiny #390877 06/18/17 01:19 AM
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Rides like a Cadillac, but will install tube shocks probably next weekend and rear are scheduled for down the road. Weird, but I thought the suspension was so archaic that tire pressure wouldn't make that much of a difference so a slow leak in one tire caused me to overfill all of them. Amazing how lowering tire the pressure caused the steering to be more responsive. I guess i underestimated 1938 technology, she never fails to amaze me.

solafide #390889 06/18/17 12:07 PM
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Just be aware the the now correct pressure is covering-up a problem in the susupesion/steering that the higher pressure revealed.
Also if you think it rides nice now a ride in a Master Deluxe with independent front suspenion would amaze you..


Gene Schneider
Chev Nut #390890 06/18/17 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Chev Nut
Just be aware the the now correct pressure is covering-up a problem in the susupesion/steering that the higher pressure revealed.
Also if you think it rides nice now a ride in a Master Deluxe with independent front suspenion would amaze you..
X2 , pretty sure you still have problems in steering :(

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received the tube shock kit, but no time to install especially with the 100+ degree heat wave we are having.

solafide #418858 12/15/18 12:13 PM
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Ive had the tube shock kit for a year and haven't installed, i need longer u bolts. I did discover the bushings in the linkage to the shocks was hard as rock at best and crumbling to nothing at worst. i ordered new bushing sets from The Filling Station and installed, too loose. My temporary fix consisting of rubber bushings I bought at lowes, and trimmed held in place by larger washers was much tighter. I will install tube shock kit but vibration after a large bump is nearly gone, just feels like a truck up front.

solafide #418980 12/18/18 10:13 AM
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After reading all of this, a question comes to mind. I have a 1937MD, and was wondering what the adjustment is on the ball joints for the tie rods and drag link?? I see there's an adjusting plug with a cotter pin through it on them! Any help will be appreciated.
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solafide #418993 12/18/18 03:36 PM
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The instructions are on page 75 of the 1938 shop manual.......should be close to that in the 1937 manaul


Gene Schneider
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Thanks Gene, I just have to find my manual now! Also, could I change out the old ball joints that are welded in now, to the ones that have threads on them? or no? Thanks.
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solafide #418999 12/18/18 10:12 PM
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My suggestion would be to disassemble the stock set-up and adjust. It is designed for the springs to cushion the road shock. There were some modern style replacements made that did not have that feature. As long as the center balls are not worn the other parts are available as a kit if required.


Gene Schneider
Chev Nut #419006 12/19/18 10:07 AM
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Thank you Gene for your suggestion. But, can just the BALL'S themselves,
be replaced with new ball's with the THREAD'S on the one end for the castle nut? Since I don't have a welder to weld in the ball's without the threads. Or would there be a problem with clearance? Thank's PS, The filling station has these!
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solafide #419015 12/19/18 02:18 PM
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The balls were not seriviced as a part by Chevrolet.


Gene Schneider
solafide #436830 01/09/20 02:28 PM
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I realize this is an older thread. I remember following it with a lot of interest when it was active. It motivated me to make sure the front end and steering were in good shape on my car.

The reason for this post is that for the first time I experienced the "Death Wobble" the other day It really caught me by surprise because I have driven car over 3300 miles and never had an issue. And most of that driving was with very bad lever arm shocks. I converted to telescoping shocks just before the Fall Southern Tour this year.

Winter here has been fairly mild so I have been able to drive the '37 quite a bit. Last week I was driving along one of our busier through streets at about 45 mph. Obviously I hit a bump and boy did the steering wheel go crazy! It went away after I had slowed down to about 20 mph. My first thought was a flat tire so I pulled into a high school parking lot. Everything looked fine. I pulled at the top and bottom and sides of the front tires and everything felt fine. The rest of the drive was normal.

So it appears that I have another task for the winter project list. I have to wonder if one of the springs that cushion the road shock to the balls in the joints has broken. I had to replace a broken one before I started driving the car. I do have a NOS steering shaft and bushings for the steering gearbox so will go ahead and install them if i do not find another problem.


Rusty

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solafide #436837 01/09/20 07:12 PM
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Tube shocks cured mine. It'll be interesting to see what you find.


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solafide #436840 01/09/20 09:27 PM
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I had a loose drag link end joint, that fixed mine.


Ed
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I also had a link joint that wobbled in the arm. It had been welded instead of crimped but didn't hold.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
solafide #436853 01/10/20 01:07 PM
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Hi Tiny, Uncle Ed, and Chipper,

Thanks for the responses to my revival of this old thread. I thought it might be of interest especially considering that it happened after I did the shock conversion.

It will be a while before I get to this work. I was called to the southwest office location for some remedial training with my supervisor. Interpretation: I am in Scottsdale for a coupe of weeks enjoying time with Doris and the slightly warmer weather. I do plan to visit a couple of the auctions next week.

I will post my findings.


Rusty

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solafide #436858 01/10/20 03:49 PM
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Rusty,

Sure fix. Slow the h..l down. Those ol' 37's and 38's weren't meant to travel over 35 MPH. The speedometer may indicator may suggest a higher speed but it won't go over 45 without something falling off and entering the "Death Wobble" zone.

Suggestion. Jack it up and strongly grab the wheels at four alternating points and see if you have play. If not then it may be the shocks. Back when the ffactory boys wind tested those critters, they thought the wind tunnel was just acting up so they got an airoplane to drop one car with no parachute from 6 thousand feet AGL (above ground level). Result the darn things still wobbled and reached termenal volocity of only 40 MPH. They thought that was good enought so they stuck with the c®itter for two years. Go figure.

If the above wabble happens again then for everyones safety, sell the car and get yourself a 41 SD coupe. End of problem unless you ignore regular maintenance like lube jobs, etc.

You're welcome,

Charlie computer

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solafide #436871 01/10/20 08:21 PM
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After ten tears with my 32 and a completely rebuilt steering system I also encountered the "death wobble". I adjusted all the tie rod and drag link ends and it cured the problem. And seeing it's been another ten years it's probably time to do it again rather than wait for the problem to re-appear.


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m006840 #436920 01/12/20 10:34 AM
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Totally agree,

Charlie computer

solafide #436953 01/13/20 09:15 AM
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"Sure fix. Slow the h..l down. Those ol' 37's and 38's weren't meant to travel over 35 MPH. The speedometer may indicator may suggest a higher speed but it won't go over 45 without something falling off and entering the "Death Wobble" zone."

I drove my stock '37 coupe from Rochester, NY to Wyoming and back, mostly on I-90, at or above the legal speed limit. Drove 3K-miles on that 2-week trip and never had a problem of any kind, including parts falling off ! Sure glad I didn't know it beforehand. crazy

Last edited by Bowtie Bob; 01/13/20 09:18 AM.

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solafide #436960 01/13/20 11:28 AM
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I agree with Bowtie Bob, back in the '60s and '70s when my '37 was my daily drive to work car, the speed limit in Iowa was 70 mph and that is what I drove it!


Ed
solafide #437007 01/14/20 09:32 AM
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Uncle Ed and BB,

You may have entered the twilight zone. Seen any Yeties out on the wing of the airliner lately?

When we get older and our synopsis start to rust, we tend to remember things a bit on the fantsy side. Seventy mph couldn't be reached in a 37/38 with a long steep down-hill run with a tornado pushing the car east down an east-west road. You disremember. If you did manage to really think you saw the speedometer needle reach 70 mark you would have just woken up and had a bunch of crackling in your eyes. A believable explanation. 70! No way, Jesus! You both are just dreaming of what might have been but never was. Pity when reality and fiction get all scrambled up in the noggin ain't it.

Let the missus luv2do all the driving from here on out. You'll swear she's doing a 100 mph on the straightaways but really only doing 35/40 which is as close to maximum sustainable speed for the ol' 37. While hanging your head out the passenger side door and enjoying the rush of air, keep your tounge in and close your mouth, Lots of bugs and neighbors out there. The bugs may be delicious but the neighbors may gossip. Wouldn't bother you none owing to your state of mind but might be rather embarrasing for her. You know. In church, on the street, quilting bees, barn dancing, rodeos, funerals, hog killings, canning, branding, corn shucking, etc. Mercy!

Best,

Charlie computer

solafide #437013 01/14/20 10:58 AM
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You are dead wrong Charlie, I have seen my speedo well over 80 mph. I go on a charity cruise every year and cruise it at 60 mph for over 100 miles. The limit in Ia. is 55 mph now. The engine in a 37 is almost the same as the one in your 41 and my master has a 373 rear gear, not sure what yours is but probably a 410. Come on up to Iowa and I will race you! Agrin


Ed
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