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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 50
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 50 |
So after 8 months of mechanical restoration, I drove my 1941 Master Deluxe for the third time ever, and first time in a long time. I put about 80 miles on it, and then brought it home to investigate all of the gremlins.
I have oil seepage around the fuel pump. I had replaced the gasket and I'm not sure if the gasket is the issue or if it is possibly leaking from the pump itself. It almost appears to be leaking from the lower pin that holds the lever on the inside. Do these fail internally and leak oil to the outside? It is possible that for whatever reason I didn't get a good seal on the install, but I may order a new pump depending on responses here.
I did use permatex on the bolt threads and I used Indian Head gasket sealer on the gasket install (let both sides get tacky prior to install).
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
tHE "PIN" LOCATION IS A COMMON PLACE FOR THE OIL TO LEAK FROM. I HAVE HAD SEVERAL DO THAT FOR ME ON MY CARS. tHROUGH THE YEARS THERE WERE SEVERAL DIFFEENT WAYS THE AREA WAS SEALD AND ALL TEND TO LEAK AT SOME TIME OR ANOTHER. Time to purchase a new pump> sorry about the caps 
Last edited by Chev Nut; 06/19/17 09:26 AM.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 50
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 50 |
Well that confirms my suspicion. Time to place an order.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 476
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 476 |
If your fuel pump is working well except for the oil leakage at the pivot pin, you can get away with a temporary fix as follows:
Remove the leaking pump and thoroughly clean both sides of the pump body where the pivot pin passes through, using acetone or some other suitable cleaner, then put a dab of hi-temp black silicone over each end of the pin where it exits the pump body, making sure the silicone is in full contact with both the pin and the pump body. For best results, allow the silicone to cure for 24 hours before putting the pump back in service. This repair has lasted several thousand miles on my 37 1/2 ton pickup. It's also a good time to consider replacing the two hex head bolts that hold the pump to the block with two socket head bolts due to poor wrench clearance on the hex head bolts.
Mark
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