I have a harrison heater no.61 for my 40. Can someone show me pictures how to mount this? Mine was mounted with two srews on the firewall, but now i have seen cracks in the firewall. Eventually from the heater mounting?
I do not have the same heater as you do but your's should mount in the same place and way mine does. I will take pictures later this AM. I will also look at my body mounting pads. Some of my positions have more than one pad. In 1940 the bodies and frames were not built "true" to each other so if there was excessive clearance an additional pad(s)was used to take up the slack.
The heater is not a 40 so mounting through the firewall may be different than the original; the mounting holes may be different. I have extra original heaters if he's interested. I can take pictures of mine to send him.
So now it's a race to see who can post photos first!!!
First that is not a 1940 heater that Chevrolet used. Next the Chevrolet heater was mounted to the right side where your voltage regulator is, not the center. Yours is mounted in the center due to the right hand drive.
Can someone tell me how to do the electrical installation? It seems that there is only one cable? The ground connection goes over the housing? Made a test with the Car Battery but it doesn´t work.But it worked before disassembly. Got this Switch from Chevs https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/images_product/large/3112682b.jpg, this one has to connectors for cable?!
I have just rewired my 40, my heater has 2 motors, 1 for defroster / 1 for heater box (cabin). The single wire to each motor is the Positive 6 volt supply. This goes to your switch or rheostat. These motors use the Negative ( Ground) to the frame where they are mounted. Be sure to scratch away ant paint or scale from the firewall mounting bolts. If you have taken this motors apart, be sure that no paint or scale is on the assembly frame mounting screws. As an extra precaution, I attached a “chassis to battery” ground cable ( small aluminum braid, avail at parts stores). I attached a ground wire to the firewall thru bolt for this, and the heater firewall mounting bolt. 6 volt systems need much better grounding than 12 volt systems.
To get good grounds the heater and vaious eletrical accessories were supplied with external tooth lock washers to insure a good ground, It was also suggested to remove paint on the mounting contact area.
Now tested the Heater Vent. with another battery and it works. Seems that my battery doesn't work, although it still has 4.8 volts. Also i would tell what i have done with the cracks. First drilled wholes in the end of the crack, so it doesn´t work any longer. Than welded a metall sheet in the back, than the crack in front. For better installation a reinforcement was welded in, too. After filling and painting it looks well ?!
