Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Aug 2013
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HugoW Offline OP
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Hi,

I stumbled across this little clip:



Seems a nice way to treat the sheet metal on my truck wreck. On the other hand, it seems a bit too easy / too good to be true. Any experience? And how should the sheet metal be treated after this? Special primer before paint, or just regular?

Cheers,

Hugo

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Wow...

Bill

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Double WOW!


SEARCHING FOR GOOD QUALITY 1933 CHEVROLET MASTER ORIGINAL TRICO MIRRORS FOR SIDEMOUNTS. ALL LEADS APPRECIATED.
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HugoW Offline OP
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OK, did I ask something stupid, or am I missing the pun?

Cheers,

Hugo

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Nothing stupid.....just two more people equally as amazed as you hoping for some first hand user experience with this product.....


SEARCHING FOR GOOD QUALITY 1933 CHEVROLET MASTER ORIGINAL TRICO MIRRORS FOR SIDEMOUNTS. ALL LEADS APPRECIATED.
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I've used a few similar products (but not this exact one) and they do work. They work really well and quick on fresh rust that isn't deep but can work on crustier stuff if worked in and kept wet with product.

I have found that these work best on small parts that you can soak as they seem to evaporate before they are finished working so you often need to keep re-applying. Small hardware, nut and bolts can clean up very well using some of these products.

I'm not a fan of the coatings left behind with some products and usually want to remove it to see bare metal. It's hard to tell if the coating is hiding some rust it hasn't removed or if the coating may react with a top coat.

My first thought on the video is how nice the parts would clean up if removed and media blasted. Blasting would have been just as fast but more thorough and less chance of missing some rust.



1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!)
1975 4-speed L82 Vette
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There are basically two chemical processes to remove rust. Acids and chelants.

Typically for non-industrial applications weak acids are typically used, acetic, citric are the organic acids and phosphoric mineral acid. Various additives are sometimes incorporated in products to reduce evaporation, base metal attack and leave a protective coating (to retard rust formation). There are a wide range of companies that produce metal treating products. Most paint companies as well as smaller specialty automotive product sellers offer them. Remember Naval Jelly?

Chelants are much more expensive so generally not to widely used in aftermarket products. I have used some in the past and they do a reasonable job but don't leave a protective coating so re-rusting can be an issue.

There are several industrial cleaning companies that use stronger acids and chelants to cleanse large equipment in refineries, chemical plants, power plants, etc. They have the technology and expertise. Most of the products available to us come from that technology.

End of chemistry lesson for today.


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I've had real good success with POR15. It really is permanent if you use it per the directions. Oh, and if you get it on your hands, "foget-a-bout-it! It ain't coming off. Don't breathe the fumes either.


Rick

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Quote
Oh, and if you get it on your hands, "foget-a-bout-it! It ain't coming off. Don't breathe the fumes either.

That..right there.....is enough reason to keep me from using POR-15.

laugh wink beer2



The Mangy Old Mutt

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Permatex and others make rust converters that work. I use an aresol product. Seals and is paintable.


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