Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#390226 06/04/17 08:58 AM
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RonPenn Offline OP
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I have a 1916 490 touring I have owned for 40 years ,it runs great but it has developed a rear axel seal leak on the drivers side. I have located new felt seals but am not sure how to install them. Any help would be appriciated. Also I am going to put new brake lining on and was told they have to be drilled again help would be appriciated Thanks Ron


1932 4 door Special Sedan 1916 490 Touring
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The rear axle seals are felt and only effective on grease. If the grease has liquefied it will run past the seal. Heat from a bad bearing or just plain time will breakdown the grease. Be sure to check the condition of the axle bearing. I buy felt seals designed for Model T's and then fit them to Chevys. Much of the rear end in a 490 Chevy is similar to the Model T. Some of the parts can be interchanged which suggests the same companies made for both manufacturers. So a suggestion is check with the Model T part suppliers for 490 parts.

The rear axle leak may be excess lubricant in the rear end migrating out to the rear wheel. Check the level to be sure that is not the case.

The brake lining material is woven that does need to be drilled, counter sunk and riveted on. The Model A and T folks have a set of tools to do that job. Not too expensive. Fits on a vise so all you need is the tools, hammer, drill and vise to do the relining.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Adding to what Chipper says, excess of oil in the rear end can depend on oil from the transmission passing the felt ring for the outgoing axle, and after lubricating the U-joint passing the propeller shaft front bushing into the propeller shaft housing and all the way back to the rear end. I am not sure, but on my 1922 I have noticed that I never need to top up with oil in the rear axle, but in the transmission.

About felt seals: When I did a major repair on the rear axle etc. on my 1922 490 a couple of yers ago I bought felt rings for Model T Ford, but they did not fit. As Chipper says, "Much of the rear end in a 490 Chevy is similar to the Model T", so maybe they fit the 1916 model.

About brake linings: I bought new woven lining of the original kind. Brass or copper threads? Works very nice, so I can recommend it.


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RonPenn Offline OP
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Thanks Chipper I will see where oil is coming from. I bought the rivet tool from a ford T parts dealer it has a step drill bit in package Thanks again Ron


1932 4 door Special Sedan 1916 490 Touring
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RonPenn Offline OP
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I will have to see how much oil is in the rear end . How full should it be ? I bought the rivet package and tool for breaks. Should rivet heads be on the inside or outside of break band, I am guessing inside. Thanks for your help . Ron


1932 4 door Special Sedan 1916 490 Touring
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Rivet heads are counter sunk into the brake friction material approximately 2/3 the thickness of the material. The extra diameter of the rivet heads are needed to secure the friction material.


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RonPenn Offline OP
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I am confused ,I received the felt seals for my 490 today and pulled wheel and bearing off axel but there was no old felt seal. I am not sure where the new one goes . There is a large metal flat washer then the bearing and nothing else, does the seal go on the inside then the bearing then the large washer or does the seal go on the outside after the large flat washer? Thanks for any help. Ron


1932 4 door Special Sedan 1916 490 Touring
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If the rear axle on your 1916 is similar to the 1922 model you can see the felt washers on this figure.
If it is similar to to the Model T Ford, take a look on this thread on the Model T Ford Forum. Hope this helps.

When I removed the rear wheels a couple of yers ago I found not a trace of the outer felt washers. I guess they were totaly worn out.


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Swedechev I did not find any on mine either and now I found out the hard way there never was any after I bought them and found they wont let the wheel go all the way on. Don't know why oil from rear end leaked. This has been an expensive learning process. I greased the bearing and put the wheel back on hopefuly it will be OK. Could not get the big flat washer off the other side so packed the bearing as best as I could. At least the new break lining is going OK so far, one side done. Thanks to everyone for all the input. Ron


1932 4 door Special Sedan 1916 490 Touring
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Ron, you write "found they wont let the wheel go all the way on".
I mentioned earlier that the Ford T felt washers didn't fit at all on my 1922. I had new ones made, both the inner and outer washers. But I didn't know the proper thickness so the outer felt washers I had ordered were at least one, maybe two millimeters too thick. With these washers it was impossible to turn the wheel. Instead I made washers from a felt stuff that was more soft than the stuff in the washers that I had bought. It was easy to cut out the washers with a pair of scissors. When I pressed the felt it was approximately two millimeters thick.


Per-Åke Larsson
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Dad and I are stumped on his 1922 490. We rebuilt engine (shot a rod, stitched the block) and she runs perfect, but the clutch vibrates/thumps. We have the transmission-clutch aligned well, but can't eliminate the chatter. The leather clutch is new and lubed with M. oil. I have a video on my I-phone I can email and desperately need input from a 490 owner or two. Help!
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I dont understand what you mean by M. Oil, but the owners manual says to use Neatsfoot oil.


JACK
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Bill,

As Jack said, the clutch should only have Neatsfoot Oil on it as it is a leather softener. No other oil should be used. If you used motor oil, the clutch will have to come out and thoroughly clean the leather & flywheel. Hopefully, there will be no lasting effects but, I have no experience as I haven't done that.

Hope this helps,
Gary

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Thank you,
Yes, only neatsfoot oil used. Clutch engages, but the chatter persist. The clutch-transmission-flywheel connection is smooth, although we have a slight offset. We've tried to shim the transmission and motor, just can't get it perfect. Now I'm concerned about the orientation of the clutch into the flywheel; the bottom is 0.5: proud of the clutch and the top is aligned. Has anyone had similar experiences or suggestions? Sincerely, Bill


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