Daryl, and et al,
This is long. It is not very informative, You may wan to just toss it. Whatever. Read at your own risk.
A few notes about radiators and the cooling system.
a. The radiator fins are those things running between the flues where the water run down in radiator.
b. The flues are those tubes that carry the coolant in the radiator from top to bottom. They are what you see when you look in the top of radiators. They are sometimes hard to see depending on the radiator construction.
c. There is the top tank and the bottom tank (upper and lower) . The upper one tank is where you want to keep the coolant not over half full when cold. This allows for coolant expansion.
d. There is the overflow tube.
e. And there are the upper out;et and the lower one. A lot were cast but replacement radiators had about the same material as the tanks.
f. There is the honeycomb design. Some honey-comb fin ones had straight flues some had zigzagging flies. The latter ones are impossible to "rod" out. Mostly found in thirties and pre-thirties.
g. All radiators that wi;l "fit" are not the same as the original. Check the model/part number on he top tank
h. When all other things are in good working order, any original radiator has sufficient capacity to keep the engine cool enough. The engine is designed to run on thermostats with lower opening temperatures than 180 or 190. I like and recommend 180 degrees. That assures a good oil operating temperature. And that is where the little dot is on the instrument panel temperature gage on a 41.
i. If your "good" thermostat is a 180 and the engine boils over there is something else wrong.
j. The water "pump" merely circulated water. Heat will too owing to hot water being ;less dense. (See Chipper) Seldom does over-heating the fault of a water pump. The water pump usually hive no problems other than leaking.
k, Absence water n the radiator/engine will likely cause damage. Steam,m and or boiling would be created when the coolest ever gets brow the water pomp. If there is water/copilot in the block you may not get too much damage. No water can cause damage. It is best to either let the engine cool down or pour (ADD) water in slowly into the top tamp whilst the engine is riming.
l. Old radiators that are on their lsat leg can be boiled and rodded out. Any large holes need to be soldered up or the offending flue cut out (eliminated). A Tiny holes under test pressure of about 10 pounds are not always a problem. Just add a tube of mechanics/rebuilds helper or Solder Seal or equivalent. No eggs.
Remember 180 degrees is hot to the hymn touch but is just about right for a 216. A 190 would be even bearer. Water itself boils at 212 degrees at sea-level. Thats 22 more degrees. No worries.
In keeping any engine at good temperature it is essential; yo treat the problem(s) instead of the symptoms.
Sorry this is so long but I'v noticed that many of our fe;;ow Chevrolet owners are not always up on the cooling issues.
Don't worry. I probably made some mistakes in my advice but maybe not too many. I'll surely hear about it posthaste.
Gene has mentioned these items as well. He mentioned that the Harrison was the GM radiator make and that McCord made them for other makes. I can't think of other companies who made radiators.
Charlie
NOTE: There are typing errors. Wadde through it
