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#386776 - 03/31/17 03:07 PM Head work
MoonshineMachine Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic

Registered: 11/09/16
Posts: 44
Loc: Eastern NC
So I have torn my 1941 216 down to replace all of the leaking gaskets. The valve area on the heads is pretty funky looking. I had considered just wire brushing it and using some valve lapping compound, but now I am thinking that I will just take it to the machine shop and have the head re-worked so I know that I will not have an issue. My question is regarding hardened seats. I am debating having them installed. I plan to do some serious driving in this car with a planned RT 66 tour and also plan to regularly drive this on 4 hour plus trips. Anybody using their early straight 6 extensively on original non-hardened seats? In other cars I have used the lead additive in the fuel and had no ill effects.

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#386784 - 03/31/17 04:13 PM Re: Head work [Re: MoonshineMachine]
Chev Nut Offline




Registered: 01/08/02
Posts: 24245
Loc: West Allis,Wi.
There is no reason to install hardened seats. Regular grade gas in 1941 did not contain lead.....Only Ethyl Preimum grade contained Tetraethyl lead in 1941.
_________________________
Chevgene

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#386789 - 03/31/17 05:59 PM Re: Head work [Re: Chev Nut]
Mike McCagh Offline




Registered: 11/10/03
Posts: 2184
Loc: cumberland, md
agree with gene, unless you are gonna pull 1000# of moonshine thru the smokey mts. Under that kinda stress, hardened seats not a bad idea. otherwise, they are an unnecessary expense. mike

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#386790 - 03/31/17 06:04 PM Re: Head work [Re: Mike McCagh]
Chev Nut Offline




Registered: 01/08/02
Posts: 24245
Loc: West Allis,Wi.
Also lapping in valves is an old fasioned practice. Valve seats must be ground to the specified width and angle. Also the valves must be ground properly.
A good idea would be to use exhaust valves made from a much better quality steel than Chevrolet used in 1941. Stainless steel looks to be the choice of the day.
_________________________
Chevgene

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#386822 - 04/01/17 01:30 AM Re: Head work [Re: Chev Nut]
41specialdeluxe Offline



Registered: 09/15/09
Posts: 4580
Loc: NC usa
MM,

you may consider this:

a. Take your head in to the machine shop and have it planed for the surface to block and the exhaust/intake side.

b. Have them tank it for clean-up or get you some solvent and do it yourself.

c. Ease each piston out and clean out the return holed in the bottom ring groove. Stick in a new set of rings. Steel will be just fine.

d. Cut the ridge out of the top of each cylinder.

e. Adjust the rods to proper clearance.

f. Blow out the block and radiator.

g. Get youself some valve grinding and a hand tool and grind the valves. Just make sure the surface is smooth the entire seat. Put the same push-rods and lifters in the same hole they came out of. the rockers too.

h. Clean out the pan and use Gene's method of reinstalling the gaskets and rope main seals. This step is crucial so get it right.

That about all I can think of that would constitute a mild refresh of the engine. If there are no attention getting items then the engine should last through your Route 66 tour and some 4 hour trips too. Say about 50K miles.
next time figure on maybe a full engine rebuild at the machine shop.

Use any oil as long as it is 10w-30. keep the oil pan full to the mark on the dip stick. i would use a 180 degree thermostat. it may not be best for you but it is best for the engine.

Good luck,

Charlie computer

BTW: If you are coming to Charlotte next week then stop and see me at my spaces. you can help me look after my stuff whilst Chip is there. Agrin

BTW2: If you need any technical information from the shop manual, such as torque values, etc. let me know.

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#386967 - 04/03/17 01:01 PM Re: Head work [Re: MoonshineMachine]
MoonshineMachine Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic

Registered: 11/09/16
Posts: 44
Loc: Eastern NC
Thank you all for the advice. I have dropped off the head at the machine shop where they will hot tank it and magnaflux it for any cracks. He said my valve seats looked great anyway (while it was still all together). He is going to plane the surfaces and check all of the valve seats when it is apart and only do a valve job if needed (he thinks it wont need it). New seals will be installed and he will check the guides for wear.

I have been considering doing new rings, so that sounds like a good idea too. I have some concerns about the shims on the crank as that stuff is all new to me (I've never worked on a motor pre 1960's), but I will do some searching on the forum here to figure out if I need to remove the shims. My motor looks like it has one shim in place on all of the mains right now.

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#386968 - 04/03/17 01:04 PM Re: Head work [Re: 41specialdeluxe]
MoonshineMachine Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic

Registered: 11/09/16
Posts: 44
Loc: Eastern NC
I completely forgot about Charlotte coming up, Now I have to see if I can get there.

I was really surprised by how much trash was in the cooling passages on the block and more surprised to see the blockage on the underside of the head where the crap had gathered (the car ran nice and cool).

I flushed the coolant passages on the block for about 20 minutes with water while tilting the motor in different angles. Then I was still blowing trash out of it with compressed air for about 20 minutes.

I think I will take the radiator to a shop and have it flushed.

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#386971 - 04/03/17 01:41 PM Re: Head work [Re: MoonshineMachine]
Chev Nut Offline




Registered: 01/08/02
Posts: 24245
Loc: West Allis,Wi.
If the block isn't cleaned out the trash will find its way back into the clean radiator. Best way to clean the water jackets in the block is to remove the expansion plugs.
You will be surprised to see what is packed in there
_________________________
Chevgene

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#387040 - 04/04/17 07:25 PM Re: Head work [Re: Chev Nut]
Mike Buller Offline

1500

Registered: 10/11/07
Posts: 1758
Loc: MI, USA, Midland
Just a little more info on block cleanup:

Overheating issues

Good luck,
Mike
_________________________
Mike 41/77 Chevys

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#387154 - 04/06/17 12:13 PM Re: Head work [Re: Mike Buller]
MoonshineMachine Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic

Registered: 11/09/16
Posts: 44
Loc: Eastern NC
Hmmm. Now I think I am not done with my block clean out. I suspected I had to be done since I blew crud out of it for so long and then finally nothing. However, I did not poke around with anything inside the block. I suspect I just got the surface of the problem. I bought some coolant flush stuff and will tape off the lower water ports and pour the stuff in and let it sit for awhile, then start poking around and start the clean out process again. Great tip - hadn't thought of that.

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#387156 - 04/06/17 02:04 PM Re: Head work [Re: MoonshineMachine]
pushrod Offline
Oil Can Mechanic

Registered: 08/07/03
Posts: 713
Loc: brazoria texas
on all of my old cars i have installed a gano filter in the outlet a whole lot easy to clean than a radiator it only takes a spoon full or less to plug a radiator hope this helps

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