VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc Sick engine

I have done this when I was looking for what was holding the lever up and I remember not seeing any gas. I'll do it again to verify. Now if I remember correctly, there is a W-1 wizard right here on this forum.I could saddle him with the task. Who was it again? I won't send it to the same person who rebuilt it the first time.

Pat,
Before sending the carb off. Try to check for a piece of trash in the accelerator pump jet. It is behind the small slotted brass plug between the air horn and float bowl cover. A small drill bit or thin wire can be used to see if is clear. The opening is ~ 0.025" so can be easily plugged by crud.

Looked for the accelerator pump stream. It was there on the first squirt. The second squirt came out here. Blockage?




Removed the carb and put the '37 on. Lo and behold instant throttle response and smooth idle. Now if I could find what link the choke shaft flange to the lever thing (itty bitty screw?) I would run this one.

Chipper, the one in the circle?

Pat,
A leak at the first arrow is a sure sign of a plugged pump jet. Happens all too often. First clue is harder to push down the accelerator pedal or operate throttle by hand. If the pump leather seals 100% then the coordinating rod (link between throttle arm and pivot with metering rod and accelerator plunger) will bend. That results in really poor performance as the metering rod and throttle plate are not synced.

The second arrow points to the place where the choke lever spring should be. There will also be a choke valve spring. BTW the carburetor is not a '37 but '38 -'40 based on the choke setup.

The red oval is around the slotted plug to remove to access the pump jet. Yes that is the one to remove.

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Opened it and ran a .025 welding tip cleaner. Not plugged now. As long as there is gas in the bowl I should be able to check the accelerator pump squirt, right?

Yes.

Pat,
Looks like you have things going your way now. As you can now tell doesn't take much to plug the pump jet. Fortunately modern gas as it is pumped into the tank does not typically have particles present. Polymerization of modern gasoline can however produce particles that plug up those teeny weensy holes.

Is the spring I'm missing readily available? or Does the '34 air horn fit over the '40 throttle body?

The springs come up on eBay every once in a while. Not sure if iceracer1995 has any listed. You need Carter No. 61-196 the other choke spring is 61-197. I'll have to look to see if I have any. Don't do W-1 carbs for others any more. Still have some parts so I can rebuild my own carburetors.

'34 Air horn does not fit the later body. Has only 2 screws. '36 and later have 3 screws.

Thank you sir. I'll start looking.

After closer inspection, there are two spring there, however one appears to either have a broken end or is hooked to the wrong location. I'll try figuring it out. Haven't seen any clear pictures of that area on the net.

Rehooked the spring on the other side of the tab on the outside lever so it grabs it on the way, seems to work. If it proves to be reliable like this, the '40 carb will stay. It runs so much better.

Glad the spring was not missing only hiding behind the lever for the shaft. That setup allows the choke plate to be sucked open when throttle is opened and more air flows past.

The trend in Carter W-1 carburetors is a bit leaner from 1932 to 1949. That can mot only give better gas mileage but better running.

After a few runs it won't start at all. I suspect the fuel pump. If I unhook the downstream line and crank the engine, the pump should spew gas right?

Right. As long as there is gas in the tank.

Yes. If not, then your gas tank is empty, your fuel line is plugged or your fuel pump is defective.

I suppose the most expedient way of checking the fuel line is blowing compressed air through it. I'll try that and start eliminating causes.

Pat,
If you blow air back toward the tank have someone listen to see if they hear bubbles from the open gas cap. If yes then you also have verified there is liquid in the tank, the pickup tube is below the liquid.

There is gas in the tank. I put some in to eliminated that as a cause of it not starting.

I clued in on the pickup tube in the middle of my shepherd's pie. So if that passes, I start moving forward. I removed the filter, which was upstream of the pump. Some black crud came out of it when i tapped it on the workbench. it might be some of that which was in the acceleretor pump nozzle.

If the black crud gets into the fuel pump valves it can render the pump inoperative. Might need to blow out or rinse out the pump. Blowing from intake end to discharge end should help. Best to remove both intake and discharge gasoline lines to get flow through the pump and not push more crud toward the carburetor.

She's back together, starts and runs. I guess the stumbling on my last test drive was the dirt in the nozzle. The fuel pump must have been pumping air. I put 4 gallons in and after what seemed like an eternity I saw gas. Hooked her up and a few more cranks and it started. How embarrassing..... anyway let her warm up and had another pass with the feeler gauge. It runs quite smooth but not that much quieter after all the changes. I will accept smooth and try to tune out the noise. I wish to thank everyone who coached me through this and I hope I can help someone too some day.

Glad that you got the old girl running again!