Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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The above should say intake VALVE cleaning. On some engines deposits build up on the back of the intake valve. At idle the "deposit" absorbs the fuel causing a poor idle condition. Other than removing the head and cleaning the valves walnut shells are used for removing the deposit with the engine intack.
Problem #2 is engines with direct injection. The fuel is injected directly into the cylinder so additives are of no great help. Cleaners can be induced directly into the intake manifold on most engines except some Like the Ford Ecoboost.


Gene Schneider
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As a chemist Rick, you understand the value of Tier One fuel, it's not a hoax.
As Gene stated, Tier One won't make your '51 do burnouts, but its not going to hurt the engine either.
Chipper may chime in, as well.
He's a formula guy, as well.



1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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Agree as long as you buy fuel within your vehicle's octane requirement and don't go chasing additives in higher octane fuels. The Fuel Marketers would have you putting the highest octane in your 75 Pinto which is a waste of money and possibly cause poorer performance regardless if it has super duper varnish removers...

In Canada most of the Tier 1 stations near me also state their Ethanol content which is nice. Typically cheapest grade up to 10% Ethanol, mid grad up to 5% and Hi Test No Ethanol.


1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!)
1975 4-speed L82 Vette
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That is interesting.....what would I do? .....buy the lowest octane which has 10 percent ethanol and is more than enough octane for a pre 1955 car.
Spend 30 cents a gallon more for 5 percent mid octane (which is not required)or spend 65 cents more for a non- ethanol grade with the highest octane that I don't need or want.

In my home area it is all 10% ethanol. I can drive 30 miles to get either non-ethanol regular for about 25 cents a gallon more (I do get this for winter storage, especailly for my small engines) or pay about 75 cents a Gal. for premimum non-ethanol. (Never do this).

I really have never any problems with using ethanol in my cars.


Gene Schneider
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In my area all we have is the 10% Ethanol junk as well. There is one station that has non-ethanol gas but I have to drive 20 miles to get it. My car absolutely hates Ethanol!

laugh wink beer2


The Mangy Old Mutt

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I think the thread is getting a little off subject.

The top tier gasoline vs generic gas has to do with levels or ratio of detergent in branded gas vs unbranded.

Chev Nut makes some good points. I just wonder if I would have less buildup on my recently replaced intake valves running the branded stuff.


Last edited by styleline51; 02/07/17 03:27 PM.

Rick

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I'm thinking Shell is a Tier 1 fuel, plus Shells' 2" longer nozzle works for your car. A bonus, compared to the funnel approach.

The additional bonus would be cleaner valves.

A win, win situation. dance



1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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iagree

Also, I would add that after multiple tank fill ups with the E Gas, no problems so far. driving I put a couple ounces of Startron Fuel additive and some Marvel M.O.. and she seems to like it. Keeping the tank full helps too.

Cheers


Rick

"Never time to do it right the first time, but always time to do it over."
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