Some people here know about my 1940. At the Moment the engine is in restoration. Long time ago, talked about restoration of the body. Should not be a complete resto, only the rust, other parts will be in original condition. I love the patina and also don't want to restore the Interior. This week I have holiday and I will try to document my progress here every day, so you can take part of this. Hope this will help other people by there Restoration. Lets Go: First put the car on the Hydraulik Ramp. The screws I have loosen in the last few weeks. Some are broken, but I bought the screw set at Chevs40s. So I have a good overview, how many are installed and how they look like. I made a plan, on which i marked the mounting points. On this placed the old screws and the new one next to them. (Pictures are coming later) In the Set there are 20 bolts, my car only have 18. A Test with the Gearbox Lifter shows me, i´ve got all bolts!
Hello Tino, your welcome ;-) After I can not insert the images in the first post, I will do so here. First the plan with the screws. Here I have to correct my post, my car had 16 and in the set were 18. The two one,on the left site in front are too much. Then the pictures with the marked screw positions
You need to be carefull, because some Connections i´ve missed. So you have to loose the Linkage to the brake Pedal, gearbox and the gas pedal. The vacuum house from gearbox and the speedomter cable. And don´t forget the Tank knozzle and the Ground Wire fron the fuel gauge The steering gear i´ve loosed from the frame but not from the chassis Now the first step is down, frame stands alone. But there is a problem, I have no idea how to lift the chassis so that I can roll through the workshop. The lift I use not alone and have to leave. If I longer lift the chassis as in the? At the moment it is on wooden beams on the ground and the tail is extra supported, because without the whole chassis is tilted backwards
Today i drove to the local steel trader to buy Wheels and Square tube for the Chevy Subframe . Not so easy something decent to construct because the subfloor is not flat and i have to fix it at the body. After several tries, i did it and fixed the subframe at the existing screw holes in the middle.
Then I had time to inspect the underbody accurate and had to sit down first. Since the bottom was otherwise hidden by the frame, so you could not see the full extent. The sills are heavily corroded part and the supports for the body are not very reassuring. Think, there is an extreme need for action
I´am a little bit frustrated about the rocker panel condition. Were can i get good sheet metall for the inner rocker panels and the bracket supports Found only from Cot40s, but what is the different between "Rocker Patch Panel" and "Rocker panel"? Seems that Rocker Panel is the complete panel and much longer, but it is cheaper?? Can someone tell me details about the quality?
Andre, Take a look at the patch panels on the attached link. Very good quality however I'm not sure they sell the inner rocker panel separately. I used the complete rocker panel assembly and door bottoms on my 41 convertible and was very happy with the results. let me know if I can help.. Mike
Hello Mike, EMS i have seen, but thats allmost for 2 door and i have a 4 door sedan. Think i could only use them separately. But they dont have the supports for the bracket. Shipping to germany is expensive, so i should buy from one supplier.
I have been out of town so have not been able to comment on your body removal nor rocker panel damage. Please be a little more patient I will make comments latter
The approach I took with the supports on the 38 was to remove them, remove all the rust with chemicals and weld reinforcements in to provide the strength. Someone with fabrication skills could make them from scratch.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
I believe your problem maybe superficial if your floor braces are not compromised (not showing rust through). Use a pick and poke the ends to determine their integrity. I think rocker panels are basically cosmetic so of little structural importance other than for the general preservation of the floor and door bottoms from mud/water damage.
If I am correct then as the above post states you could cut out the damaged inner panel areas and glue, weld, rivet, or screw in new fabricated patches that you make. On my 41 I replaced my entire passenger side floor panel, cowl, part of my front floor, and the ends of my floor braces with EMS parts all welded in place. It was quite and undertaking with a lot of time spent getting the parts to align well and look original. Body lines were hard to duplicate, but 90% of the people would not know the areas were repaired.
On my driver's side where my damage was not real bad I just made cosmetic repairs. I replaced no sheetmetal except for the cowl and a 5" area where the inner rocker panel was rusted through.
If the outer surface of your rocker panels are okay I would recommend replacing or repairing just the worse inner panel areas. I am aware that my driver's side repairs are not recommended for professional repairs but here is what I did.
I coated the inside and outer surface of my panels (not the painted side by your running boards), and ends of my floor braces with fiberglass. My theory is rust needs air/humidity, to create more rust so it can be stopped by being encapsulated. The fiberglass encapsulates the rust and also strengthens the remaining metal. Of course the fiberglass can crack with the flexing/movement of a body part. My theory is that rocker panels are not under stress so are not prone to movement.
The inner and outer rocker panels form a structure like a box beam and they are part of the support structure. If they are compromised severely, it will sag. If the damage is not extensive, in my opinion it is better to replace as little as possible. It is hard to beat the integrity of original panels that were spot welded together.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
Thanks for the response and tipps. The last two Days my work was, to cut out the damaged parts on the right side.
In the middle i must cut off the floor sheet, because the nut for fastening the frame was loose and i have to fix a new one. Also the floor sheet has some holes and it was better to cut off the rest from the bracket.
After i realised that the rusted brackets are only for the running boards and the floor braces seem in good condition, i feel a little better. The inner panel and the brackets are easy to prepare an so i will do them myself. The inside from the rocker panel i will prepare with "Owatrol Oil" and "Fertan Rust Converter" don´t know if this is available in USA. The corner at the front is massiv corroded and i have to see how i can retsore this. Now i think i will have a break for a few days or weeks. Stay tuned ;-)
As you are now well aware there is quite a learning curve for removing your body from your frame, and then designing a work station to complete repairs. From looking at your pictures it seems you may have compromised some of your body parts by the method you used to lift it with your hoist. Specifically, the parts that are used to mount the running boards to the body. With patience and time you can repair these areas.
Your ability to document your work with pictures is an important asset to use all in learning the steps in body off restoration. Please help us all by continuing to post your outstanding pictures. The pictures will also help you in your reassembly process, and documenting your work for historical purposes.
I strongly recommend that you fabricate your own replacement parts where you can. In some cases you can bend the metal parts just as well or better than a part supplier.
I have started accumulating pictures for a new post on my experience with a major body part supplier EMS.
As I have mentioned above I completely agree with old216 and his comments.
Hello Mike, Didn't compromised the body parts. They were in this bad condition. Lifted the body only at the frame mountings in the front and the rear middle. Thanks for the compliments about the photos. Sometimes pictures say more than words and I will continue my documentation.
One more day Bodywork. First i have to close the hole in the ground sheet. Prepared it with a offsetting pliers and the replacement sheet with holes for spot welding. As you see, the first were in the wrong sheet - mistake, but could weld them from the underside.
Fits not bad. Then everything was welded and hammered after each point, so that the sheets are also free of gaps to each other. The control from below gives a good welding profile, all points are "blown". After that, grind and applied properly "Owatrol oil" for gap sealing. Later, I will still work with body sealing compound, but that is far away. Fits ever not bad. Then everything was welded and hammered after each point, so that the sheets are also free of gaps to each other. The control from below gives a good welding profile, all points are "blown". After that grind and applied properly "Owatrol oil" for gap sealing. Later, I will still work with body sealing compound, as far as we are far but.
Bigger problem is the area of the right frame rest in front of the rear fender. The sheet is here heavily corroded and the Rocker Panel behind it is probably only rudimentary. Correct step is here cut out the Traverse, newly customize, replace Rocker Panel plate and attach new Traverse. Unfortunately, this is not a simple part and I'll try me in sheet origami. Have there been a few ideas and the first trials for the Running board support also look hopeful.
Nice seen your work you are doing a great job there. I should recommend using a tinning paste and lead after spot welding. It is not difficult to do and its fun using old techniques.
Unfortunately it turned out on closer inspection, which had the outer sill under thick filler and holes. Remained only separate out the damaged area and use a new sheet metal insert. The only way is to separate out the damaged area and use a new sheet metal insert. With the new sill underside, this area is much better than before.
Origami Sheet, so you can call what my talented workmate has done for me. When he saw my console he began to make some paper templates, makes new sheet metal and cut out the rusted areas. Then he welded with WIG. Good work. I made then the new support bracket.
Meanwhile I´ve made new Brackets for the running board. The top I leaved a little bit longer, because I will adjust this with the mounted Running boards. Next week I will do more work.
Next week i will do more sheet metal work. Keep on Rockin
I recommend posting the pictures. If you think you are posting to many then post a link. I would also not restrict access to my pictures (mine are linked to Photobucket) to only a specific picture. I would leave it open (public access) to anyone who wanted to look at my pictures trusting that no one would hack the account? I have only my 41 Chevy restoration pictures on my Photobucket site. Here are my Photobucket pictures Mike's Photobuck for his 41.
The reason to consider this option is to insure future generations of chat site users access to our knowledge and experiences. I do have all my 41 pictures stored on my own computer and backed up on a separate portable hard drive.
Best wishes, Mike
P.S. You are doing an awesome job of fabricating your damaged body parts. The 1940 guys have to be encouraged by your work.
P.S. #2 I am also open to advice on what others think on this topic.
Well, another week of hard work. First had to close the holes in the floor ground, in front of and under the rear seat.
Next was the front from the Rocker panel. Cut out the damaged parts and made a new sheet. The metal plate inside is for the new thread to mount the fender.
The Floor in the front, was corroded a little bit too, so I fixed this with a new sheet, also
The sheet that my workmate made for me, does not fit correct. So I had to make a little cut and weld it, to correct the position
The next big step was to make a paper template from the inner rocker panel After this work i think it was impossible to take the manufactured panels from chevs. Because there is no way how they could fit. The ground was so uneven, from former welding and rust corrosion.