VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Electrical - 6 volt '37 ignition switch

Hello Everyone,

Got a problem with my ignition switch. With the key in the off position (or no key at all) the amp meter shows a full -20 discharge.

Checked the leads at the back of the ignition switch and it shows 5.88 volts at both leads. My guess, since I'm weak in electrical diagnostics, is that the switch is bad.

Are these switches fixable or do I have to replace it ??

If I have to replace it, does the entire electroloc have to be replaced and who would have such an item??

You apparently have more problems than just a bad ignition switch unless the switch is grounded. Take off the negative battery cable first. Then check the voltage between the disconnected cable and the negative battery terminal (where cable was removed). With the ignition switch off it should be zero.

Hello Chipper,

It took most of the afternoon but found the problem....Checked the cut-out switch with my multimeter and there was a momentary connection, then felt something pop and the meter went to zero.
Removed the switch and it had a rattle, something loose inside. Removed the cover and found the lower outer winding had lost contact at the its solder point (cause of the rattle was loose solder ball) and the point contacts are basicly non existent so re-soldering the wire would cure nothing.

Apparently the cut-out over heated due to bad contact and melted a little solder. That resulted in not breaking the circuit between battery and generator when the engine was not running. I suggest replacing the guts of the cut-out with a diode and heat sink. Should eliminate the problem. Be sure to orient the diode correctly. Many consider it an upgrade to more modern, more reliable equipment. I've not done it yet in spite of having purchased several diodes.

I have read about this up-grade and will have to try to find it. Here again, I will admit this is a one of my weak points......using the computer in an effecient manor.

I have done the diode conversion on cut-out relays many times and it works great. However, I still prefer the original cut-out relay over the diode conversion.

In the case that the cut-out is toast conversion to diode will likely be lower cost than obtaining an operating cut-out.

Correct! Working cut-out relays are very expensive.

Hello Chipper, Junkyard Dog,

So far, locally, I have a few guys checking their stock. The problem seems to be the orientation of the wire tabs to the mounting legs. (90 degrees to each other) The gen. wire is short and won't reach the tabs if they are inline with the mounting legs.

I could add an extension to the existing wire if need be.

In the event that I have trouble locating the proper switch for a reasonable price, would you guys have detailed instructions on converting to a diode system ? I did find a thread about it, but it doesn't get into specifics.

Dave the cut-outs that are aligned with the generator are what you need. The ones that are 90 deg. to the generator are for 4 cylinder Chevys. Both work the same.

You can purchase a new aftermarket cut-out relay from the Filling Station, and the orientation will be correct for your application.

Thanks guys,

I will check it out.

check this guy out, the good news is that he probably has the cut out that you need, the bad news is that it will not be cheap. I have bought a few things from him over the years, he does know a great deal. yesteryear