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I am thinking the rattle I have been hearing is spark knock so I presume every vehicle that had a 235 the distributor is not exactly the same with the cars having a different advance rate then trucks,the distributor in my 235 is a reman unit and the NOS vacumn advance is not known what its exact application is for so who knows what I have. When I was in a OCA there was a artical about reman parts which should be avoided if possible and the original parts rebuilt and I should have remembered it before buying this distributor but I do not think there is anyone locally who can rebuild one. It looks like its time to buy some parts books so I know what to look for.
VCCA #45194
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the part number of the distributor is stamped on the point mounting plate or a tag on the side of the dist. The 235 dist. has less advance at higher engine speeds. The engine will ping at over 300 RPM at full throttle. The vacuum advance will not cause pinging at full throttle
Gene Schneider
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The reman distributor I have has the tag removed,I never could understand when a part is rebuilt the factory tag is removed so I really do not know what the distributor originally came off of.
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I did some looking and the 56 and 60 distributors do not have tags so its off to the junkyard to find one that does have a tag so I can figure out what it came off of and can get the correct parts.
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Got my old Motors manuals out and it looks like 55 to 62 cars had the same number with 54 having 2 one for manual and the other for a automatic trans,the manual does not include trucks so it looks like its time to find some truck Motors manuals. Since my 37 has o/d and more highway friendly gears I am wondering if it would be better to use a car distributor.
VCCA #45194
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There is no such thing as a car or teuck distributor. When there is a difference (in the parts book) it is because of the location of the grease cup. On some car engines the motor mount bracket made it necessary to have the grease cup to the rear of the distributor. There were two in 1954 because the dist. gear was made out of different materials so as to match what the camshaft was made from.
Gene Schneider
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Got my old Motors manuals out and it looks like 55 to 62 cars had the same number with 54 having 2 one for manual and the other for a automatic trans,the manual does not include trucks so it looks like its time to find some truck Motors manuals. Since my 37 has o/d and more highway friendly gears I am wondering if it would be better to use a car distributor. Remove the dist. cap and rotor. See if you don't have a 7 digit number stamped into the plate, where the ignition points are anchored. Something like 1112396 or such.
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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That is a 1954 Power Glide distributor.
Gene Schneider
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That is a 1954 Power Glide distributor. Yes, a 235 p/g dist. Number was used as an example of what poster may find on plate, by the points.
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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According to my Motors manuals 55 to 62 cars should have a #1112403 distributor,should have 7 1/2 degrees maximun vacumn advance and how could that be checked since it seems like the distributor in my 37 might be going a little more. It also says one degree at 375 RPMs and 13 degrees at 1750 so it looks like I need to find someone locally with a distributor machine,I like these Motors manuals as they seem to have much info in them.
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The same info. is in the Chevrolet shop manuals. Thats where Motors gets it from.
If you think the engine is pinging (pre-ignition) fill it up with Premeium gas next time. If the pinging goes away it the timing is too far advanced. If not you have another problem.
Last edited by Chev Nut; 04/26/15 11:09 PM.
Gene Schneider
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The reman distributor I have has the tag removed,I never could understand when a part is rebuilt the factory tag is removed so I really do not know what the distributor originally came off of. In some states it is law that the original number be removed upon rebuild as to not be resold as new
John
1954 Belair Sport Coupe 1960 2 door Impala Hardtop 348/340HP 4spd 1962 2 door Impala Hardtop 409/409 4spd 1962 2 Door Biscayne Sedan 327/250 Auto 1977 Monza Mirage 305 4 Speed 1988 Celebrity Wagon 2018 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Diesel
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If its not in the distributor its getting another motor,I have been chasing the rattle for about 6 years and just when I think I found the cause it shows up again. It has premium in it now and might do a compression test to see how many PSI it has,if I remember correctly the block and head surfaces have been milled to clean them up and wonder if the machine shop went too far. I think its been making the rattle ever since I started driving it in 2000 and always thought it was in the valvetrain but its not.
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If its not in the distributor its getting another motor,I have been chasing the rattle for about 6 years and just when I think I found the cause it shows up again. It has premium in it now and might do a compression test to see how many PSI it has,if I remember correctly the block and head surfaces have been milled to clean them up and wonder if the machine shop went too far. I think its been making the rattle ever since I started driving it in 2000 and always thought it was in the valvetrain but its not. Remember to use baby steps here. Don't get ahead of yourself and the problem. Did you check to see if you have a dist. number stamped on the plate, under the ignition points ?
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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I will check for a number today.
VCCA #45194
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You couldn't mill enough off of a low compression head and block on that engine to get the compression ratio so high as to require preimum gas....you have a mechicanical problem.
Gene Schneider
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I will check for a number today. Yep, give us the number, if you find one.
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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He gave the numbeer yesterday....it is from a 1954 Power Glide engine.
Gene Schneider
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The number posted yesterday was by bobg1951chevy and was posted only as an example of what the number may look like. If it was posted then I missed it-and it would not be the first time.
Steve D
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Oh, see it now. was Bob's reply.
Gene Schneider
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The distributor number is 1112403 which is the number the Motors manual said it should be,I drove it to work and its definately a problem in the motor but was hoping it would be something a little more simple. The rattle originally only could be heard with no load on the motor but now it can be heard with a load but can not make it happen without driving it so I can not isolate it to a certain cylinder like I done before,it is not a deep sound and still sounds like its in the valvetrain but I been through it. I think its been doing it since I first got it on the road 15 years ago and if it was a rod or main bearing I would have thought the motor would have kaboomed years ago.
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The distributor number is 1112403 which is the number the Motors manual said it should be,I drove it to work and its definately a problem in the motor but was hoping it would be something a little more simple. The rattle originally only could be heard with no load on the motor but now it can be heard with a load but can not make it happen without driving it so I can not isolate it to a certain cylinder like I done before,it is not a deep sound and still sounds like its in the valvetrain but I been through it. I think its been doing it since I first got it on the road 15 years ago and if it was a rod or main bearing I would have thought the motor would have kaboomed years ago. My book shows the "403", for '55 to '57 235. I agree with you, your description says the noise is not coming from the lower end of your 235. Is it a p.g. ? If a P.G., a cracked flexplate could be a concern. What type of work did you perform on the valve train ?
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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If you look in the later parts books the "403" was sold for everything from 1940 and up. The 1959 parts book says 1955 and up.
Gene Schneider
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I replaced all the valve springs and took another set of rocker arms and filed the tips smooth so I could get a more accurate adjustment,the head had all new guides and wondering if anything could have went wrong during that procedure.When I could isolate the cylinder making noise and was #2 I am going to start with that rod and go from there. The distributor number is 1112403 which is the number the Motors manual said it should be,I drove it to work and its definately a problem in the motor but was hoping it would be something a little more simple. The rattle originally only could be heard with no load on the motor but now it can be heard with a load but can not make it happen without driving it so I can not isolate it to a certain cylinder like I done before,it is not a deep sound and still sounds like its in the valvetrain but I been through it. I think its been doing it since I first got it on the road 15 years ago and if it was a rod or main bearing I would have thought the motor would have kaboomed years ago. My book shows the "403", for '55 to '57 235. I agree with you, your description says the noise is not coming from the lower end of your 235. Is it a p.g. ? If a P.G., a cracked flexplate could be a concern. What type of work did you perform on the valve train ?
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If you look in the later parts books the "403" was sold for everything from 1940 and up. The 1959 parts book says 1955 and up. Thanks for that info. My "newest book" is early 1957. Never had an interest in anything beyond 1957.
1951 Chevy Styleline Deluxe 2 door sedan / purchased from second owner 6-19-2000.
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