Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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[Linked Image from i76.photobucket.com]

On the left side of the picture shows the 2 brass fittings that I use for the 3/16" diameter oil line that goes through the water jacket in the middle of the engine block on a 1940 216 six. I have installed these 2 fittings on the driver's side of the block and they work fine. When I try to install these 2 fittings on the passenger side there apeears to be very little clearance for the 3/16" oil line to bend 90 ddegrees up towards the cylinder head.
Are the 2 fittings on the left side in the picture the correct fittings to be used on the passenger side of the block inside the engine side cover?
As you must know, this 3/16" oil line oils the rocker arms.
Note, the old fitting on the right was a solid brass pipe plug that was drilled for a 3/16" diameter oil line. To seal out the water, it was soldered.

dtm


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The factory line was soldered. Chevrolet sold a replacement line with fittings similar to what you have. They worked fine, I installed a number of them. The line kits sold today have the problem you have encounterd because the fitting(s) are too long. I have heard this complaint from others.


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Hi Terry,

Sometimes a young man needs to be taught new tricks. Like searching our index of past posts on this topic! Please do a Keyword Search Terms search using the Advance Search tip +oil +line. Then limit your search to Mike Buller for the Display Name. The posted answers will keep you out of trouble for awhile.


Good luck, Mike

P.S. The fittings should not be too long if you get a good 90 degree bend with your tube bender. You can buy a kit from Chevs of the 40's or all the parts at a good auto parts store. I was able to get all my parts from Carquest.


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Who is Terry and Mike????????????


Gene Schneider
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Dave

Had the same problem last time I rebuilt my '40. To get more room I ground 3 threads off of the block fitting. That gave me enough room to get the 90 degree bend without crimping the oil line. Did use sealant on the block fitting, none on the line fitting.


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Hello Mike:

I will give your fix of shortening the pipe tap threads on the brass plug which screws into the block. I will keep you posted if it works for me. I have also thought about taking a solid brass pipe plug and drilling a 3/16" or slightly larger hole thru it. I would then solder the 3/16" oil line to the brass plug after it is installed. I did that 20 years ago when I had the same problem. I just figured that there must be a more professional or original way to do this now that it is 2015 and I am older and wiser. or at least older.

dtm


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DTM,

I tried to reuse the factory soldered plug by drilling out the old copper tube. My intent was to solder my new tube back on like the factory. My problem was I "chickened out" worrying that if there was a leak my $4,500 engine rebuild, that took Carquest over a year, could be ruined. I trusted compression fittings more than my soldering skills. I have done a fair amount of copper water pipe soldering but with that you can see in a hurry if you didn't get a good solder joint.
Good Luck, Mike

Last edited by Mike Buller; 02/12/15 06:11 PM.

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Dave
Your idea of soldering will work. The problem is that I can't think of a good way to test the solder joint.


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Hey,

Dave and Mike I think that's a good idea.

Good luck, Terry


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I used a compression fitting in my 194 engine. worked fine.


See you Touring the Back Roads

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The "problems" with the 1936 and later engines is completely different due to the fact that the oil line passes through the cooland where the line passes through the center of the block.
A perfect seal and special fittings are required to keep the oil and coolant from mixing.


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FWIW we melted the old solder and resoldered the new line into the original fitting on my '38.


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[Linked Image from i76.photobucket.com]

This is fitting on the passenger side of the block. I purchased a brass pipe plug fitting. Then drilled a 3/16" hole thru it. Then soldered the 3/16" oil line to the brass plug. A piece of cake.

dtm [Linked Image from i76.photobucket.com]

This is the plug after it has been soldered. [Linked Image from i76.photobucket.com]

Installed in the block.

dtm


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Hi Toolman,

The problem I had was bending the copper line 90 degrees after it was installed with a soldered fitting. I didn't see how I could bend the pipe? How is this accomplished? Is there a tube bender that fits into such a small area? To clear the push rod cover the bend has to be completed within a very small distance.

I would have preferred to do it as you have but was afraid to do my soldering once the fitting was installed and the tube pre-bent using a tube bender.

I also never have seen soldering done on the other side of the block. Compression fittings were what I have always seen used there. I figure if compression fittings were good enough for one side they would be good enough for the other. I do realize that if there was a leak on the driver's side it would be easily seen, not the same on the passenger side.

Good to have this discussion to provide alternatives for an important repair.

In a previous post I showed a picture of an oil line which was beginning to plug up. I can not see doing any rebuilding process on an engine without making sure the copper line is completely cleaned out. To me it would be like not cleaning out the oil pan or oil pump screen or checking the aim on the oil pan nozzles.

Thanks, Mike


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Hello Mike:

A compression fitting is used on the driver's side of the block. There are no clearance issues on the drivcer's side. The only soldered side is under the engine side cover.

dtm


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Originally Posted by Mike Buller
Hi Toolman,

The problem I had was bending the copper line 90 degrees after it was installed with a soldered fitting. I didn't see how I could bend the pipe? How is this accomplished? Is there a tube bender that fits into such a small area? To clear the push rod cover the bend has to be completed within a very small distance.

Toolman,

Please tell me how you accomplished the bend without crimping the copper line?

Thanks, Mike


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The engine builder did mine so I don't know exactly how he did it but I would think you could put the bend in the line 'before' inserting it into the fitting and soldering it. Then just slide the fitting to where you want it and solder away.


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If you anneal the copper tube first with the oxy torch (get it cherry red, then let it cool slowly), you will be able to bend it carefully by hand. Practice on a piece first.

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I soldered several. You just need to have faith in your work. you can also use silver solder witch is much stronger.

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[Linked Image from i76.photobucket.com]

All that I did to bend this line was to bend it with my hands. The line is one of the new and improved ( nickel-copper ? ) bendable brake lines. Note: this picture doesn't show the bent line. I can show the actual bend when I get home in a couple of days.

dtm


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Originally Posted by the toolman
All that I did to bend this line was to bend it with my hands. The line is one of the new and improved ( nickel-copper ? ) bendable brake lines.

dtm

Thanks for clarifying your answer. The rest of us were using the old copper lines that kink easily.

Thanks, Mike


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What kind of sealant was used when the fittings were screwed into the block? The shop manual calls for white lead.

Thanks,
Mike

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While I havent assembled mine yet I plan on using "Loctite 515" as it is a high pressure type sealant even though there isnt any pressure in the cooling system.
Tony


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I used prmatex #2 on mine. Make sure the line is bent to fit in the bulge in the side cover.

Last edited by chevy1937; 05/22/17 07:11 PM.
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I have had mine apart several times and re-soldered the old fitting on a new piece of tubing. If you have ever soldered plumbing fixtures then you know that once it wicks up you are good to go. I think GM decided that the solder joint was more secure in a place where you could not see it if it failed.


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