VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc Differential, and torque tube

I am planning to remove my 1932 differential and torque tube in one piece and would like to know about how much it weighs? I will build a cradle with casters to roll it out and the weight will point me in the right direction for materials...Thanks,

Mac

I don't know how much the assembly weights but is heavy and cumbersome. I built a cradle for my 1930 torque tube and rear end assembly when I had it out of the car.

I built the cradle out of 3/4" black iron pipe. And, on the three legs I mounted heavy blocks of wood and then mounted the casters to the blocks of wood. It sure worked great for moving my torque tube/rear end assembly around easily.

A harbor frt furniture dolly is rated for 1000 lbs. You can customize one for the cradle or if you build your own the HF dolly is about $8-12 and the casters are worth that by themselves.

Thanks for the replies....I was guessing around 500 pounds and the furniture dolly is a good idea; might use two and then block up the tubes....Best,

Mac

I would think that it weighs less than 500 pounds.

The furniture dollies will be ok but I would recommend using a couple ratchet straps to secure the rear end to the dolly. Once you start moving it you don't want it to fall off and you would be surprised how fast something comes off when the castor wheel hits a crack in the floor or a small rock.

I used a couple of 6k pound jack stands (js) and a smaller js under the torque tube. If I wanted to move it I just grabbed a-holt of that sucker and lifted by the two sides of the axle housings like a barbell. Or you can do one leg at a time. Let the torque tube down last and after taping a rag to the front of it so you don't damage it none when it is dragged about. Use a couple of creepers if you want to. After all they are hardly used anyway. (Use a piece of flat wood for reinforce where the hubs rest.

When you get it to where you want it, just heist it up and place it on the re-positioned jack stands. Again, just set it down and lift one leg at a time if you don't want to fart. Lift the torque tube last. Don't forget to remove the rag when installing the U-joint.

If you have to, you can get the missus or a buddy to help. There ain't no need to buy or build no stinkin dolly. It will just be in the way afterwards. Mercy!

You're welcome. It's always a joy to suggest something that will save money. Is too.

Charlie

I think it is probably less than 200 without the wheels and tires.

Yes, around the 200 pound figure sounds more accurate.

JJ,

I agree.

I would expect that it is a little lighter that you can power lift above your head. For me a clean and jerk is about right. And I eighty. The next time I lift one I'll do it one leg at a time. Each axle being a leg, that is. Having eaten some pintoes the night before helps.

Charlie

"If you have to, you can get the missus or a buddy to help. There ain't no need to buy or build no stinkin dolly. It will just be in the way afterwards. Mercy!"

Charlie, how about using his floor jack or creeper under the rear and letting the front slide along on the garage floor with a coffee can over the ball to protect it? Then when it's where he wants it he can raise it with the floor jack and put his stands under it. That way it's a 1 person job.

I used the cradle that I made out of 3/4" black iron pipe with casters and was a one-man job. I had the chassis up on jack stands, I rolled the rear-end/torque tube cradle under the assembly, unbolted the rear end assembly (the torque tube was already disconnected from the transmission), eased it down onto the cradle and rolled the complete assembly out from under the car and out of the way.

It was a piece of cake and a one-man job. Doing it this way was easier than the method that Charlie describes and it didn't cost me a cent since I already had the black iron pipe and the casters! The cradle wasn't in the way either, because when I was done with the cradle since it was small I it put up in the rafters of my shop and out of the way (was too, was too!).....until it is needed the next time. Mercy!

Great ideas and I will get a cradle made over the weekend...Charlie, I am in my mid sixties and 200 lbs is heavy but I think I can mange it OK....My son on the other hand, could move it around like a tinker toy. I purchased 5 2x4s and a piece of 3/4 in plywood (plywood was scrap at our Lowes)....I will notch the 2x4s and assemble them to fit the axle tubes and the torque tube then gusset the vertical pieces with the plywood. Casters were 2.50 each at the "import" place near me. So I am good to go I think. When I get it out, I will need some info on the prop shaft to replace the bushing etc. After that, our comes the steering gear....Peace and best to all. Thanks again...

Mac

I have used a floor jack more times than I can remember. Rag tied on the end of torque tube keeps it clean and moving over hard surfaces. So does cardboard folded a time or two.

Chipper,

It sounds like he doesn't have a floor jack. If I were in his position I'd buy a floor jack rather than building that wood structure to use once. The work that a floor jack can do is really amazing.

Mine has lifted cars, trucks, trailers, engines, transmissions, rear axles, huge cut down trees to keep the chain saw from digging into the rocks while bucking the tree into rounds for firewood, pulled fence posts, and on and on. I've even used mine on beam axles to bend the axle to get the exact right caster. A truly versatile tool!

Reasonably priced floor jacks are available. I own five of them. Have one in the enclosed trailer, one in the truck, one in each of the two work shops and an aluminum one that I move from place to place. The aluminum is 1 1/2 ton from Harbor Freight and only cost $ 69. Will handle most lifts that I do. Changing car or trailer tires on the side of the road without a stable jack is asking for an injury. Also only takes a few minutes to change a tire with a good jack and when you are in harms way minutes can be lifesaving.

Also have two safety cones in the trailer or truck. It is amazing how cars and trucks will pay attention to the cones when they are placed behind the idle vehicle and near the traveling lane. Also have a bunch of jack stands so I never get under or near an elevated load without substantial support. Crushing is for grapes not people.

Chipper

Well said and



Charlie

BTW: I have a ton and a half and a three ton aluminum floor jacks from Sears Robuck. The ton and a half is far superior and far more useful than the 3 ton. The three ton will not jack when the handle is not able to rise way up. The other one will.

The HF one for 69 bucks sounds like a good deal. I'll check it out. I'll tell them you sent me. I'll expect to get a discount. Thanks!

Charlie

You may have to wait a few weeks until the jack is on sale again at Harbor Freight. If you are not on the Harbor Freight email list you might have to sign up to get their super coupons with the lowest prices.

I have a 3 ton floor jack and it is a double stroke so no worries about lifting the diff and torque tube...I need something to place it on and move it around the garage...

In that case a cradle with casters will work great for you. When I used mine I was able to move the torque tube and rear end around in my shop wherever I wanted it and with ease!

You can lift the center section with the floor jack, then rotate the torque tube to a vertical position and move it anywhere you want. It is easier to put a rag on the jack cup and it will not dig into the paint. The filler plug even helps to keep the rear end on the jack cup. The cup will rotate so you can align the axle ends to fit into a narrow place. Works great and doesn't cost anything.